Throttle Actuator failing - which bank?

I've been getting the common symptoms of the throttle actuators going out lately. Every few starts, the car would start in limp mode with all the DSC, TPMS lights, etc. all on.

I read the codes when this happens and got the following:

Engine / Motor:
- Fault: Throttle valve actuator CAN message
- Code: 00CDC0
- Fault: check at lower top
- Code: 002B57
- Fault: Throttle valve actuator control monitor
- Code: 002B15

From my searches on the forums, it seems that people are usually getting different codes for their Throttle Actuator errors, and it usually states which bank (side) the TA is failing.

Anyone have experience explaining what my issue is? Is it indeed the TA's failing, and if so, which side?

Thanks in advance.

It probably depends on your reader. I'm using the Bavarian Technic, so the code tells me what one.

To be honest though, does it matter? If one is gone, the other is soon to follow. If a shop is replacing, half the cost is the labor just to get to it, so it's really only about a 1/3 more to just buy the second one and replace while you are at it.

mightyaa wrote

It probably depends on your reader. I'm using the Bavarian Technic, so the code tells me what one.

To be honest though, does it matter? If one is gone, the other is soon to follow. If a shop is replacing, half the cost is the labor just to get to it, so it's really only about a 1/3 more to just buy the second one and replace while you are at it.

Fix it if it's not broken. Good advise.

Absolutely replace both. That is what the dealer does under warranty, because it's common sense that the other will fail.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Cheapest i could find, $544.00 !!!

https://www.getbmwparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=13627838085&make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214672

or FCP Euro with lifetime warranty, but $649.99

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-electronic-throttle-body-actuator-m3-13627838085

They are expensive...

They are expensive...

Don't forget these states have an extra 7 year/70k mile warranty on them from BMW

*The California Emissions Control System
Limited Warranty applies to all U.S.
specification BMW vehicles sold, leased, and/or
registered in California, Connecticut, Maine,
Massachusetts, New Jersey, Oregon,
Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont or
Washington.

The good news is that the Throttle Actuator and Idle Control Device is covered under the California Emissions warranty by BMW NA! This warranty covers California cars for 7 years or 70k miles.

Definitely do both while you're in there. Great advice here.

It's not that much work. If you are doing it yourself, save some cash and replace one at a time. It will take you less than 2 hours of work the second time around. Maybe it's just me, but $650 to replace something that hasn't even failed yet, just to save myself 2 hours of time is a bit absurd.

If you are paying someone who is going to charge you $1000 in a labor, then by all means, do both. That makes sense as it is peace of mind that you won't have to worry about it in the future, but saying that just because one failed the other is right behind it or soon to follow is false logic and bad advice. No rhyme or reason for these things failing, and just because one fails it absolutely doesn't mean the other one will.

Rat3d ///M wrote

It's not that much work. If you are doing it yourself, save some cash and replace one at a time. It will take you less than 2 hours of work the second time around. Maybe it's just me, but $650 to replace something that hasn't even failed yet, just to save myself 2 hours of time is a bit absurd.

If you are paying someone who is going to charge you $1000 in a labor, then by all means, do both. That makes sense as it is peace of mind that you won't have to worry about it in the future, but saying that just because one failed the other is right behind it or soon to follow is false logic and bad advice. No rhyme or reason for these things failing, and just because one fails it absolutely doesn't mean the other one will.

This is along the same direction I was thinking as well. I will be doing the work myself, and it doesn't look too bad.

I guess back to my original point, how do I tell which bank is failing?

dlaw wrote

This is along the same direction I was thinking as well. I will be doing the work myself, and it doesn't look too bad.

I guess back to my original point, how do I tell which bank is failing?

2B15 is bank 1 (passenger side)

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15733134&postcount=74