Brembo Caliper on stock rotor

pbonsalb wrote

Why did BMW take the 6 piston front brakes off the 135i and install E90M3 sliders when making the 135i into the 1M? What was wrong with the BMW 6 piston fronts?

I thought they were just a 4-pot setup?

I suspect they swapped the M3 brakes on because the entire suspension is from an M3 to begin with...probably too much hassle/expense to try and figure out a way to make the 135i calipers work. It's cheap and easy to just retrofit the whole assembly.

martymil wrote

Really, have you ever tried jumping on the stock brakes at 200mph and see how
quickly the stock brakes can stop you because they wont and they wont lock

What i mean lock is at anyone point you whish to lock you can and without fade

Do you need someone to explain how brakes work

I would put a wager on it these with the same pads on a brake dyno would outperform your setup anyday of the week

You take your overpriced hunks of metal and be pleased with yourself that you just flushed good money down the toilet

you keep going back to being able to lock the brakes. it has nothing to do with repeated heavy braking endurance. zero.

These brakes have no endurance problems as they have been heavily tested on the track by dj_dub with no issues, so your argument holds no merit

Between the two of us they have been tested, abused and still going strong.

No one is telling you your brakes are bad just these are just as good and cheaper for the average joe blow and they don't need to spend absurd amount of money on so called kits.

I posted these here as it is the topic of discussion and it was deleted.

IntegraXTR wrote

Slon-workshop: 6 piston Brembo custom brake kits. 360/380mm oem rotor setup. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1423661

Is this another option using stock rotors? These calipers look really nice as well

I'm done posting in this thread trying to convince people that this is indeed a viable option for a brake upgrade over the stock setup and good value for the price and what you get. Is it an end all solution? Nope...but that wasn't the reason why this kit was produced. The facts are all here...people can make their own decision after reading everything. This has turned into a cluster f*ck of confusion that I want no part of. If anyone has any questions about this kit, feel free to PM me...I'm happy to answer any questions you may have.

roastbeef wrote

dj_dub i appreciate you being able to debate this with me while remaining civil. one day, we'll meet at the track and be pals. i dig your car and what you have done with it.

roastbeef Thank you sir, I really appreciate your kind words. It would be nice to see each other at the track sometime and chat it up! Although, I'll be doing less trackdays in the next few years due to a baby on the way.

Don't understand why this turned into a pissing match, if you don't want to buy it then just don't. This is a very common thing amongst the vw/Audi community.

shimmy23 wrote

yup using stock rotors or even f8x 380mm rotors. Its great seeing another option on the market and I like that they are using monoblock calipers.

I still think your best bet is finding a used set of ST or Brembos. Nice low mileage kits pop up from time to time. Nicely engineered STs or brembos that ditch the OEM rotors. I'll be going that route.

you need to check available pad options on stoptech calipers, to fit them on oem rotors. if i'm correct, they don't have large height pads.
360mm oem rotor needs about 65mm pad's height.
380mm oem rotor (f8x) needs about 76mm pad's height.

brembo gt physically can take different height pads, but pistons location on them working good only up to 57mm pads (pistons locates too high). using 65mm pads on brembo gt calipers already not good idea.

many years ago i've started working with brake systems, and i've tried a lot of different used calipers. not many calipers can give you such a wide range of pads height and width.

Been running the brakes for a while now and here is my review.

I have a large issue with the rear brakes and have got no reply from Albert about it so I think everyone should know whats going on with my set.

Here is more video on the defective rear right caliper.

https://imgur.com/a/aMtzW

Here is an album of photos with the rear defective caliper.

Gaps were crosschecked with the driver side caliper which are both equal.

did you double check the install ?

did you check the adapter bracket is sitting properly on the hub ?

is it torqued down properly ?

are the pads square ?

eg is the rear of the pad (metal surface) parallel to the brake material

Seen many faulty brake pads. Had the brake material come straight of the backing plate
on one of my pagid pads on my jeep and it was 500kms old

Ive seen brake pads not square and had to be machined flat and parallel to the backing plate on a belt sander.

If you leave it for at least 500 miles and do some heavy breaking they will eventually run flat on your rotor and make full contact

Try switching the pads from inside to outside.

How you measured the distances of the gap has nothing to do with it.

to check the calliper you have to measure the piston gap when fully retracted to the rotor and also the distance from top of the piston and bottom of piston to make sure the piston is running parallel to the rotor face

martymil wrote

did you double check the install ?

did you check the adapter bracket is sitting properly on the hub ?

is it torqued down properly ?

are the pads square ?

eg is the rear of the pad (metal surface) parallel to the brake material

Seen many faulty brake pads. Had the brake material come straight of the backing plate
on one of my pagid pads on my jeep and it was 500kms old

Ive seen brake pads not square and had to be machined flat and parallel to the backing plate on a belt sander.

Yes they are. I have even swapped the out side with the inside pads. I have rechecked all torque values. I have inspected the bracket.

m3boost wrote

Been running the brakes for a while now and here is my review.

I have a large issue with the rear brakes and have got no reply from Albert about it so I think everyone should know whats going on with my set.

i'm sorry you have to deal with this. this is what i was warning against. it is quite obvious that the rear brakes (even version two) are junk. you can clearly see the machining on the rotor surface extending towards the middle of the rotor, and the machining is worn off where the pads are actually bedded in and making contact. the rust underneath the pad is absolutely insane.

roastbeef wrote

i'm sorry you have to deal with this. this is what i was warning against. it is quite obvious that the rear brakes (even version two) are junk. you can clearly see the machining on the rotor surface extending towards the middle of the rotor, and the machining is worn off where the pads are actually bedded in and making contact. the rust underneath the pad is absolutely insane.

Not only that but if you look at the front brake pin that I talk about in the video it doesn’t go all the way through like the others showing a massive defect with the calipers themselves. I wonder where they are coming from and the pre sale condition.

Are you affiliated in any way with akmotorsports? You are very quick to jump to their defense so it'd be good for sake of transparency to keep this clear.

martymil wrote

did you double check the install ?

did you check the adapter bracket is sitting properly on the hub ?

is it torqued down properly ?

are the pads square ?

eg is the rear of the pad (metal surface) parallel to the brake material

Seen many faulty brake pads. Had the brake material come straight of the backing plate
on one of my pagid pads on my jeep and it was 500kms old

Ive seen brake pads not square and had to be machined flat and parallel to the backing plate on a belt sander.

If you leave it for at least 500 miles and do some heavy breaking they will eventually run flat on your rotor and make full contact

Try switching the pads from inside to outside.

How you measured the distances of the gap has nothing to do with it.

to check the calliper you have to measure the piston gap when fully retracted to the rotor and also the distance from top of the piston and bottom of piston to make sure the piston is running parallel to the rotor face

m3boost wrote

Not only that but if you look at the front brake pin that I talk about in the video it doesn’t go all the way through like the others showing a massive defect with the calipers themselves. I wonder where they are coming from and the pre sale condition.

i watched the entire first video. sucks. i'm sure you have seen my previous posts.
the rears will never be right, because they aren't right.

Im in australia so no

But people are quick to rubbish a product after they failed to
properly install it in the first place

No saying it happended here

But seen it happen on the fourms and they are quick to point fingers

He still didnt answer my questions ?

If you want to measure if the piston is square to the face of the rotor

Get a piece of balsa wood approx 10mm thick and cut to shape of the pad and insert instead of the pad

Apply brakes and let the piston mark the wood

Now measure the indentations at top and bottom

This will tell you if ths caliper is flexing or not straight on the rotor

If you cant do that get someone to apply the brakes for you and have a look if the piston has a gap between the pad

Im just trying to help you work out whats wrong

martymil wrote

Im in australia so no

But people are quick to rubbish a product after they failed to
properly install it in the first place

No saying it happended here

But seen it happen on the fourms and they are quick to point fingers

He still didnt answer my questions ?

If you want to measure if the piston is square to the face of the rotor

Get a piece of balsa wood approx 10mm thick and cut to shape of the pad and insert instead of the pad

Apply brakes and let the piston mark the wood

Now measure the indentations at top and bottom

This will tell you if ths caliper is flexing or not straight on the rotor

If you cant do that get someone to apply the brakes for you and have a look if the piston has a gap between the pad

Im just trying to help you work out whats wrong

I have measured the pads and the wear is not square at all. I have even swapped the outside with the inside pad to change the wear pattern. And I have had the kit for over 3 months before making this conclusion to see if the contact patch was a issue.

Also the fact that I have sent emails reguarding this and have not received any response back is a red flag and I am not sure how safe the kit is. Please watch the video and look at some of the defects I have found.

m3boost wrote

I have measured the pads and the wear is not square at all. I have even swapped the outside with the inside pad to change the wear pattern. And I have had the kit for over 3 months before making this conclusion to see if the contact patch was a issue.

yes but have you measured if the piston is coming down flat on the rotor or is it flexing

How many miles have you done since install, time means nothing

Have you bled the rear caliper properly, I re bleed all calipers after 500 miles

Also measure the thickness of the rotor at the bottom and at the top with a micrometer, who says the rotor is machined right

Unless you can thoroughly check whats wrong and find the issue your only guessing

I have had the kit on for 3200 miles.

I first thought I had air in the system and bleed the system a total of times starting from the back and also using a pressure bleeder.

Each time I bleed I had about 100 miles of use between them.

Also remember these are brand new ecs rotors. Measuring the rotor won’t matter as the top has been wearing from over 3200 miles of use. I can put back the oem rotor and see if I get the same noise that way we can rule that out.