Track forum general chit chat.

10-15-2017

Just a little tip. Did my rear wheel bearing today on my car. After you clean up the splines on the axle and the hub, take a jack and put pressure on your hub. Due to tight tolerances this will help keep the hub from cocking a little and then you won?t get it in. But if you put the jack on the hub and take a block of wood and a mini sledge itâ€™ll go right in. Just thought Iâ€™d pass this trick along :thumbsup:

10-15-2017

scotty_miller wrote
Just a little tip. Did my rear wheel bearing today on my car. After you clean up the splines on the axle and the hub, take a jack and put pressure on your hub. Due to tight tolerances this will help keep the hub from cocking a little and then you won?t get it in. But if you put the jack on the hub and take a block of wood and a mini sledge it?ll go right in. Just thought I?d pass this trick along

can you share more about your wheel bearing experience? i'm curious about the service interval for track use. our hubs get pretty hot from track use, and i'm sure that accelerates wear.

1. what climate is the car driven in (daily driven on snowy/salty roads)
2. mileage?
3. approximate number of track days?
4. were they making noise, or was this proactive maintenance?
5. how did they look?

10-15-2017

roastbeef wrote
scotty_miller wrote
Just a little tip. Did my rear wheel bearing today on my car. After you clean up the splines on the axle and the hub, take a jack and put pressure on your hub. Due to tight tolerances this will help keep the hub from cocking a little and then you won?t get it in. But if you put the jack on the hub and take a block of wood and a mini sledge it?ll go right in. Just thought I?d pass this trick along
can you share more about your wheel bearing experience? i'm curious about the service interval for track use. our hubs get pretty hot from track use, and i'm sure that accelerates wear.

1. what climate is the car driven in (daily driven on snowy/salty roads)
2. mileage?
3. approximate number of track days?
4. were they making noise, or was this proactive maintenance?
5. how did they look?

The car is for track use only and occasional back road fun. There?s only 43k on the odometer and the car sat for 7 years so my best guess is it?s all original hardware. This is my first year with the car and did about 20 Days. I started to notice a loud squeak and hum in the rear almost like if you had a squeaky unsettled spring it sounded similar I checked the play and it wasn?t bad at all. Then I was at track night in America a few weeks ago at Pittsburgh international race complex and had a spin off and clipped some curbing that was uneven. No major damage but after the day was over and I switching to my street set I checked and could move the wheel torqued to the hub a good 1/4? so I knew it was time. In your case I wouldn?t worry about doing them as preventative if they are not giving you an issue

The overall process of doing the wheel bearing isn?t bad. This was probably a 5/10 job on being hard. Luckily I?m very mechanically inclined and had all the proper tools and a press which makes it nice. Having the right tools for a job like this makes it a breeze. You need a slide hammer and bearing puller set. Both of which you can source off amazon for less than $100. If you need any help on doing the job or need to lend tools to save a hassle. Feel free to PM me and that goes for any of us track rats. Glad to help!

10-15-2017

Yeah and a HF press makes it even easier. I did them when I had the subframe down, so I just pressed it right out of the whole trailing arm.

10-16-2017

03 (1 of 1) by Chamba, on Flickr

I had a off road excursion.... and first time too. Pretty funny but what sucks is my underbelly was dragging next session and I had to cut some pieces out. I was going to get buy another replacement, but then I saw this: http://challenge-usa.com/blog/products/aerodynamics/bmw-e9x-m3-gt3-carbon-front-undertray-splitter/.... Kinda pricey but I do need a new lip too. I don't know if a can just buy kevlar fabric, resin, and make it myself.....

10-16-2017

chamba002 wrote
I had a off road excursion.... and first time too. Pretty funny but what sucks is my underbelly was dragging next session and I had to cut some pieces out. I was going to get buy another replacement, but then I saw this: http://challenge-usa.com/blog/products/aerodynamics/bmw-e9x-m3-gt3-carbon-front-undertray-splitter/.... Kinda pricey but I do need a new lip too. I don't know if a can just buy kevlar fabric, resin, and make it myself.....

That product looks amazing, nice find! Agree it seems a bit pricey but kind of a 2 for 1 part, might help justify it. I like all of the metal fasteners up front also, seems much sturdier than the 3M tape some lips attach with.

EDIT: That is pricing for just the splitter portion, ouch!

10-16-2017

Finally had a chance to get the car out to Road America outfitted with the Gt4V2 wing and new Yokohama AO52s.

1 session in on Saturday before the rain began. 3 Sessions in on Sunday. Goal was to relearn the car and track. Car felt great, PFC Z-54's are no joke coming into turns 1 and 5.

10-16-2017

C-M2 wrote
Finally had a chance to get the car out to Road America outfitted with the Gt4V2 wing and new Yokohama AO52s.

1 session in on Saturday before the rain began. 3 Sessions in on Sunday. Goal was to relearn the car and track. Car felt great, PFC Z-54's are no joke coming into turns 1 and 5.

Just the aero setup I am after though I may go for the high mounts in the back, nice! Do you mind sharing where you got the wing from? Also curious to hear your opinion on the A052's, how would you compare them to RE-71R's, NT-01's, and Cup 2's?

10-16-2017

///Mobbin wrote
Just the aero setup I am after though I may go for the high mounts in the back, nice! Do you mind sharing where you got the wing from? Also curious to hear your opinion on the A052's, how would you compare them to RE-71R's, NT-01's, and Cup 2's?

Purchased the wing directly from Mario at MK-RennsportTechnik.

Can't compare them unfortunately due to not running them. I was pleased with the tire once I finally got the pressures right. These like to be in the 32-33 range hot lots of grip for a supposed "200" treadwear tire. :rolleyes:

10-16-2017

C-M2 wrote
Finally had a chance to get the car out to Road America outfitted with the Gt4V2 wing and new Yokohama AO52s.

1 session in on Saturday before the rain began. 3 Sessions in on Sunday. Goal was to relearn the car and track. Car felt great, PFC Z-54's are no joke coming into turns 1 and 5.

That car is looking good!

10-16-2017

My oh fu*k moment from this weekend.

10-16-2017

Great save!

10-16-2017

Nice save man! I would have done an off-road excursion and taken a short cut :burnrubbe

10-16-2017

Sweet save and nice getting on the throttle!! Most people would lift in an oversteer but best way is to stay on the throttle to control the oversteer.

10-17-2017

My NT01 looked like race slicks but didn't feel grippy... sooo might as well have fun and do some drifts! I corded the rears at the end of the day!

10-17-2017

Uhhh, so this happened on the track. There is a TSB for our car's battery cable, and I'm one impacted by this. Haven't had a chance to take to dealer to perform, but figured I would be good since it only used to happen on start up of the car (it wouldn't wake up).

This is an eye opener:

10-17-2017

redpriest wrote
Uhhh, so this happened on the track. There is a TSB for our car's battery cable, and I'm one impacted by this. Haven't had a chance to take to dealer to perform, but figured I would be good since it only used to happen on start up of the car (it wouldn't wake up).

wow. when i had that anti-gravity rs20 battery, it would only hiccup and upshift to 7th, but the car would stay on. never like that. why the spin? did it just lock up the brakes?