yeah_knee wroteWith the rebuild I vote for just holding on to it. You should be fine for some time.An engine rebuild can only be beneficial in the end right? I've been advised to sell it after I fix it but I want to enjoy it a little bit hahah everyone is worried I will still have issues down the line
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11-25-2017LAST POST
Yea start a poll, we love polls.
My engine detonated due to bearings (at 100mph down the main straight at Buttonwillow, so yes, scary, but 6MT is easy to clutch in and brake).
My full rebuild is going to be about 20K all said and done (with sourcing a good condition donor engine and doing most of the work myself), though mine has forged low comp pistons, CP rods, valve springs, upgraded bearings, etc. I would be worried that the dealer cuts corners on the rebuild since they are footing 66% of the cost. He just has to get an engine operational for probably 30 or 90 days (don't imagine warranty will be any longer than that).
You should try to get a reputatable independent to do the rebuild that you can talk to directly to make sure it's built right. There are a lot of decisions in a rebuild and many are of the "better but more expensive vs adequate but cheaper" variety (like using non original parts in some critical areas, or even reusing bolts that are meant to be one time use).
Good luck with the rebuild, and assuming all goes well, the car is definitely a lot of fun so will be worth it all in the end!
Thanks!
S.
My full rebuild is going to be about 20K all said and done (with sourcing a good condition donor engine and doing most of the work myself), though mine has forged low comp pistons, CP rods, valve springs, upgraded bearings, etc. I would be worried that the dealer cuts corners on the rebuild since they are footing 66% of the cost. He just has to get an engine operational for probably 30 or 90 days (don't imagine warranty will be any longer than that).
You should try to get a reputatable independent to do the rebuild that you can talk to directly to make sure it's built right. There are a lot of decisions in a rebuild and many are of the "better but more expensive vs adequate but cheaper" variety (like using non original parts in some critical areas, or even reusing bolts that are meant to be one time use).
Good luck with the rebuild, and assuming all goes well, the car is definitely a lot of fun so will be worth it all in the end!

Thanks!
S.
romemmy wroteHow long u think the rebuild will take ?My engine detonated due to bearings (at 100mph down the main straight at Buttonwillow, so yes, scary, but 6MT is easy to clutch in and brake).
My full rebuild is going to be about 20K all said and done (with sourcing a good condition donor engine and doing most of the work myself), though mine has forged low comp pistons, CP rods, valve springs, upgraded bearings, etc. I would be worried that the dealer cuts corners on the rebuild since they are footing 66% of the cost. He just has to get an engine operational for probably 30 or 90 days (don't imagine warranty will be any longer than that).
You should try to get a reputatable independent to do the rebuild that you can talk to directly to make sure it's built right. There are a lot of decisions in a rebuild and many are of the "better but more expensive vs adequate but cheaper" variety (like using non original parts in some critical areas, or even reusing bolts that are meant to be one time use).
Good luck with the rebuild, and assuming all goes well, the car is definitely a lot of fun so will be worth it all in the end!
Thanks!
S.
yeah_knee wroteThe build itself can be done pretty quickly. Depending on how much machining needs to be done (e.g. cylinder boring/honing, line honing if needed, etc). A large amount of the time is measuring everything, working out the bearing sizes needed, then ordering them, etc. Bearings, rings, etc, typically can't be ordered until the block has been stripped down, measured, and maybe machined, so they know which tolerances are needed.How long u think the rebuild will take ?
I'd say, if an engine builder is working exclusively, then maybe 3 or 4 days, assuming they have an inventory of parts available (primarily main bearings, rod bearings, and rings). Also need to make sure the full gasket rebuild kits are available - BMW do a full upper kit and a full lower kit, which makes ordering easy, but sometimes there is a lead time on it (note that sometimes they will cut corners here as there are aftermarket gasket kits available too).
Also, if the cylinders are tired and worn and need boring out, then the stock size pistons may not fit (as they would be too loose). Then they'd need to source oversize pistons (BMW should have oversize OEM pistons for rebuild purposes, though since I went aftermarket, I didn't even check).
The heads should have almost no work needed. Assuming they are in good condition, they should just need cleaning, decking, and installing.
However, in reality, in my experience, rebuilds take a LOT longer than expected. If it took 30-45 days I'd not be surprised, assuming parts are readily available.
Thanks!
S.
So my used engine block came. The damaged rod is going to replaced for sure obviously and all the rod bearings... along with gaskets
Anything else you guys recommend to change or look out for since the engine will be dissembled?
Anything else you guys recommend to change or look out for since the engine will be dissembled?
Maybe the main bearings.
yeah_knee wroteWhile you're at it just change the pistons, crank, rods, bore and stroke.So my used engine block came. The damaged rod is going to replaced for sure obviously and all the rod bearings... along with gaskets
Anything else you guys recommend to change or look out for since the engine will be dissembled?
When i first got my 08 m3 with 79k i was only able to put 4K on it before rod on cylinder one decided to play peek a boo. I was able to source a good block from a 2011 with 50k. I inspected all caps when i got the block and came out just fine alps Shop made sure it was fine when i gave it to them as well. Unfortunately the one head that took the hit might not be ok. Still waiting to get word back from the machine shop to see if the head can be saved or if i will have to be in the market of a good used one.
GSTE34 wroteYeah , I saw you in the list => http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786615When i first got my 08 m3 with 79k i was only able to put 4K on it before rod on cylinder one decided to play peek a boo. I was able to source a good block from a 2011 with 50k. I inspected all caps when i got the block and came out just fine alps Shop made sure it was fine when i gave it to them as well. Unfortunately the one head that took the hit might not be ok. Still waiting to get word back from the machine shop to see if the head can be saved or if i will have to be in the market of a good used one.
#s@cks !
///M Power-Belgium wroteGotta love it right lol
GSTE34 wroteI consider the BF list as the Bimmerpost dark side !Gotta love it right lol
Change of plans ... going with a used engine better and replacing rod bearings right away.