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08-07-2026LAST POST
jcolley wrote
Nice write up. One thing I do slightly differently that makes splitting the bedplate from the block far easier is to use the fit bolts as jacking bolts. Release the fit bolts per guidance, but only until CCW rotation increases in resistance as it tries to pull the doweled portion out of the bedplate. Now, release all of the main bolts in sequence until they spin free, but leave them in their holes.

Then, working from one end to the other, 1/2 turn at a time, continue removing each fit bolt. The combined resistance of each fit bolt will then lift and separate the bedplate from the block without any prying or fuss at all. Once you have about 1/8" separation on the block and bedplate, spin main bolts back down until the heads contact the bedplate to prevent it from rising anymore. Now, fully remove all the fit bolts, then all the main bolts.

Done, no muss, no fuss, no chance of gouging the interface area prying, or any other damage.

Careful with the fit bolts as well and cleaners. Even mild alkaline detergents at 50C in my ultrasonic will cause the coating (black oxide?) to flake off.

Utmost care is required tightening these fit bolts on reassembly. Break one and you're in for a fun time extracting it.

Edit: Also, you can make quick work of cleaning the sealant channel on the bottom of the block using a heat gun and small blade flat head screwdriver. I've gotten it down to about 5 minutes now.
:bow:
Holy shit. Forum member of the year!
Thanks so much for this documentary!
so much hard work to put all this together (the documentary and the engine!)
Nice documentation and write up. I know how much time that add to your workload.

:( Dear God, don't let the F80 have these kinds of issues.


Can I be a bit of a dick and ask the E9X guys a question? Is owning this car worth all of this? I know that I've seen the in car (from the underside) replacement of these parts as a preventative measure and I get that this is the result of a spin bearing but I mean... knowing this is an eventual repair?
Anthony3DHeli wrote
Thanks so much for this documentary!
so much hard work to put all this together (the documentary and the engine!)
Username makes me sad. Man I miss flying my Fury 90.
Amazing tutorial there!

I can't help but think after seeing how involved this is just how simple an electric motor is in comparison.
Great write up, thank you.
classyfast wrote
Holy shit. Forum member of the year!
this
Makes the M2 carbon roof installation look like a walk in the park.

Thanks for sharing.
Nothing wrote
Can I be a bit of a dick and ask the E9X guys a question? Is owning this car worth all of this? I know that I've seen the in car (from the underside) replacement of these parts as a preventative measure and I get that this is the result of a spin bearing but I mean... knowing this is an eventual repair?
We are a sick bunch haha. Simply put, I could easily switch to an F8X, and I wish that I didn't care about the things the E9X offers that the F8X doesn't, but unfortunately they are the things which are most important to me in a street driven performance car.

If I didn't need the space of a sedan I would own something more exotic/sporty, but actually older than my 2011. This package is very hard to replace for us masochistic owners.
Bartledoo wrote
We are a sick bunch haha. Simply put, I could easily switch to an F8X, and I wish that I didn't care about the things the E9X offers that the F8X doesn't, but unfortunately they are the things which are most important to me in a street driven performance car.

If I didn't need the space of a sedan I would own something more exotic/sporty, but actually older than my 2011. This package is very hard to replace for us masochistic owners.
This.

Image hosted on: m.memegen.com
Its all worth it until the motor blows up or you need to pay someone to do this main bearing service ;-)
great information deansbimmer, thank you so much

if pbonsalb's user avatarpbonsalb wants to mess around with this during winter I may get involved
Mvy wrote
Its all worth it until the motor blows up or you need to pay someone to do this main bearing service ;-)
I think what you mean is, it's worth it to change the rod bearings rather than sourcing another S65 when it's too late.. :character0293:
Very nice work. Where was the service completed? A shop/machine shop name?
LatifE90 wrote
I think what you mean is, it's worth it to change the rod bearings rather than sourcing another S65 when it's too late.. :character0293:
Nope. I already did the rod bearings. Thats cheap relatively speaking. Its not cost effective to do the mains. So let it ride.
Absolutely diggin this!!!
I logged in just so that I could appreciate this post :clap:
Mvy wrote
LatifE90 wrote
I think what you mean is, it's worth it to change the rod bearings rather than sourcing another S65 when it's too late.. :character0293:
Nope. I already did the rod bearings. Thats cheap relatively speaking. Its not cost effective to do the mains. So let it ride.
Thats not what I'm saying. Lol.
Mvy wrote
LatifE90 wrote
I think what you mean is, it's worth it to change the rod bearings rather than sourcing another S65 when it's too late.. :character0293:
Nope. I already did the rod bearings. Thats cheap relatively speaking. Its not cost effective to do the mains. So let it ride.
What I mean is it's cheaper to do the rod bearings on an S65 than to replace the damn S65. RELATIVELY SPEAKING.
Deansbimmer,

Thanks for this thread and the many other contributions to the forum. The knowledge that you and many other members provide for free is invaluable. I have a question about long term engine storage for preservation. How would you go about preparing an S65 for long term storage? I'm contemplating a just in case engine, but I'm not sure how it should be stored for longevity. Should it be assembled or components individually wrapped?
very extensible write-up friend. Thanks for the thorough step by step instruction.