Post your alignment specs.

No, generally toe is a negative measurement. Or, "toe in". Meaning the front of the wheel points towards the engine. Toe out is the opposite.

Generally speaking, the more toe in there is, the better the car will put down power. As power is applied, or as you exit a corner, the suspension squats and the wheel will straighten out. This is why you would want toe in. On our cars, the bushings/rear suspension doesn't dynamically change the alignment a whole lot. So this is why we see very little toe (1/16 - 3/32"). On other cars with softer bushings or that doesn't have a multi link rear such as miatas, s2000, etc (double wishbone), you will see upwards of an 1/8" of toe in. So consider us lucky.

Enzoloco wrote

No, generally toe is a negative measurement. Or, "toe in". Meaning the front of the wheel points towards the engine. Toe out is the opposite.

Generally speaking, the more toe in there is, the better the car will put down power. As power is applied, or as you exit a corner, the suspension squats and the wheel will straighten out. This is why you would want toe in. On our cars, the bushings/rear suspension doesn't dynamically change the alignment a whole lot. So this is why we see very little toe (1/16 - 3/32"). On other cars with softer bushings or that doesn't have a multi link rear such as miatas, s2000, etc (double wishbone), you will see upwards of an 1/8" of toe in. So consider us lucky.

@911r , from what is posted under the current measurements, those are definitely positive toe meaning toe in, in the front. And toe out in the rear, which is very weird setup.

MisterClutch888 wrote

@911r , from what is posted under the current measurements, those are definitely positive toe meaning toe in, in the front. And toe out in the rear, which is very weird setup.

Yeah...that's the last time I'll be taking my car to a local alignment shop. Luckily MRF did an alignment after installing my subframe bushings, end links & sway bars and the car feels a lot more neutral. Going to throw in more spherical bushings in the next few months and will have my car properly scaled & aligned at WR Teknica.

Going in for an alignment tomorrow with ZCP suspension and camber pins pulled. I have 19x10in square set up, 265 right now but 275/285 once these wear out.


Will be tracking the car a few times a year, and DD the rest of the year. Thinking 1.6F, 1.9R with 1/16th toe in on both F/R. Does that sound right? Seeing some people say toe 0 vs toe in. Going for max camber with stock ZCP suspension with pins pulled, just not sure if there is a too much camber for the rear, or what to do on toe?

Looking at getting alignment done after new LCA, FCA, and BC coils. I drive the car as a weekend spirit driving and was thinking the following to provide the shop:

Front
Camber -2.5 deg
Toe 0.08 deg / 1/16"
Total Toe 0.20 deg

Rear
Camber -2.0 deg
Toe 0.20 deg
Total Toe 0.3 - 0.4 deg

Does this look right?

Wheels: Titan7 TS5 Front 18x10 +25 275/35 Rear 18x10.5 +25 285/35

nishfish87 wrote

Looking at getting alignment done after new LCA, FCA, and BC coils. I drive the car as a weekend spirit driving and was thinking the following to provide the shop:

Front
Camber -2.5 deg
Toe 0.08 deg / 1/16"
Total Toe 0.20 deg

Rear
Camber -2.0 deg
Toe 0.20 deg
Total Toe 0.3 - 0.4 deg

Does this look right?

Wheels: Titan7 TS5 Front 18x10 +25 275/35 Rear 18x10.5 +25 285/35

For just driving around town and canyon runs. Keep the front toe neutral (zero out). Run the toe in at the rear.

You don't need any help with turn in on the streets which is the reasoning for toe out on the front. You'll just chew up your tires faster.

Hi guys.

I just installed the solid subframe bushings. You think I should keep the rear toe in or should I zero it?

jvictormp wrote

Hi guys.

I just installed the solid subframe bushings. You think I should keep the rear toe in or should I zero it?

I would tell you to keep a small amount of toe-in... much better braking stability.

I thought this might be of interest

Stock Tires & Suspension

Camber - LF -1.2 RF -1.3
Toe - LF 0.09 RF 0.08

Camber - LR -1.6, RR -1.6
Toe - LR 0.07, RR 0.05
Thrust Angle - 0.01

Swift springs, pins pulled on stock mounts. Everything else stock.

Was able to get down to -2 camber all around.
Neutral toe up front, about 10-12 minutes toe in each side in the rear for stability.

-4 0 toe f
-2.5 1/8” toe in r

tigermack wrote

-4 0 toe f
-2.5 1/8” toe in r

That's a really aggressive front set up. Dedicated track car by chance?

-2.5deg, 0 toe F

-2.2deg, 3/32" toe in R

jmeenach wrote

That's a really aggressive front set up. Dedicated track car by chance?

Mostly autocross.

Set-up: Bilstein B-16s w/EDC

Kevin Bird wrote

I thought this might be of interest

This is interesting they measure ride height differently from front to rear.
Any one know how to convert minutes to degree for the front caster.
Thanks

Any recommendations on this set up? Just installed coilovers and taking it in this week for a solid alignment and maybe corner balancing too.

Car is mostly a weekend canyon car and 6-8 HPDE’s per year. My goal is better track dynamics, plus improved tread life on my track tires without putting too much additional wear on my street tires.

I’m thinking -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. 0 toe front and -.15 rear. Not sure on caster.

Sanchez14 wrote

Any recommendations on this set up? Just installed coilovers and taking it in this week for a solid alignment and maybe corner balancing too.

Car is mostly a weekend canyon car and 6-8 HPDE’s per year. My goal is better track dynamics, plus improved tread life on my track tires without putting too much additional wear on my street tires.

I’m thinking -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. 0 toe front and -.15 rear. Not sure on caster.

I initially did the same thing but didn't get the contact patch in the rear that I was looking for, so I upped it to 2.2 or 2.3 degrees in the rear. I run r compound tires, so street wear isn't something I really worry about. My tires don't last long regardless!

If you primarily use this car as a canyon car and have that level of track days, I wouldn't personally be concerned with the street wear.

Wear is more from toe than camber anyway. The only true way to know if the camber is the right amount is to analyze tire temp across. I agree with jmeenach to go up in the rear, at least to -2 if not a bit higher. Front might need more as well, but -2.5 is a fine starting point. A little tow in for the rear (10-12 minutes each side or about a 1/64th to a 1/32nd" each side). Up front is a bit of a matter of taste. Zero is best for tire wear, but can feel a bit wonderous. I like the feel of toe-out (on my e46, didn't bother with e90 daily), it's a bit snappier on turn in. Not much toe in or out, just a touch (less than rear) if you don't want zero.

TboneS54 wrote

Wear is more from toe than camber anyway. The only true way to know if the camber is the right amount is to analyze tire temp across. I agree with jmeenach to go up in the rear, at least to -2 if not a bit higher. Front might need more as well, but -2.5 is a fine starting point. A little tow in for the rear (10-12 minutes each side or about a 1/64th to a 1/32nd" each side). Up front is a bit of a matter of taste. Zero is best for tire wear, but can feel a bit wonderous. I like the feel of toe-out (on my e46, didn't bother with e90 daily), it's a bit snappier on turn in. Not much toe in or out, just a touch (less than rear) if you don't want zero.

I agree a hint of front toe-out on an e46, but I wasn't a big fan on my e92. It was harder to control IMO than zero toe on high speed straights, especially at tracks like Willow Springs. I found zero toe to be the best blend of turn-in/stability.

Just did an HPDE at Thunderhill west with the below alignment. Car is on Ohlins R&T with camber plates. Otherwise stock on 280tw summer tires. I would call this spec "mildly aggressive street"?

Front:
-2.5 camber
7.5 caster (basically the most stock bolts will allow)
0 toe

Rear:
-2 camber
0 toe


Car handled great, very sharp turn-in, response and very easy to control. Tended to push a little in the corners but would oversteer a little when getting on the gas. (I'm also just an intermediate driver)

I do notice on the street the car will track the road more when you let go of the steering wheel. Very easy to control though. Also noticed a slight drop in feel when driving in a straight line, not in a bad way just different. Not sure if that's caused by the caster or not.