142.1KVIEWS
238REPLIES
174APPRECIATES
05-31-2025LAST POST
Thanks. I bought 12. Got a great deal last year on 0W40 and 15W50 so I have a year’s worth of oil now.
pbonsalb wrote
Thanks. I bought 12. Got a great deal last year on 0W40 and 15W50 so I have a year’s worth of oil now.
I was mixing 0W40 and 15W50 as I assume you were doing too.
Walmart is DIRT CHEAP because they go on sale every few months there, then combine with this Mobil 1 rebate that seems to come very quarter and it's a GREAT deal.
I just got approved for the 5W50 through NAPA Auto when they had it on sale, even though the 5W50 wasn't an option on the online rebate portal. I put down 15W50 and it got approved.
.
Castrol 5W50 is on sale at Canadian Tire for $32cad in those 4.5L jugs or whatever
Assimilator1 wrote
pbonsalb wrote
Google polyol ester or POE oil.

I asked the same question about M1 5W50 last year. There is a response in this thread. I am running it in my car right now. Horsepower and mpg went up by 50% and rod bearing wear was reversed. The next oil to go in is a mix of 0W40 and 15W50. Depending on how I mix it, I might get 7.5W45. Got it on sale really cheap last year at Jegs, like $3/L.
Lol :D

Re Googling POE, same results I got, either talks about AC oil or, bizarrely, a game! I give up, it's sunny outside ;).....
Ester (ex POE) fall under under Group V.

Esters are polar in nature so they will stick to metal surfaces and it's why they keep engines so clean. Esters are also shear stable. These attributes are why they're commonly found in compressor oils. They also act as a seal sweller (Side note: PAO will harden seals so esters are added to counteract it).

Negatives: They don't react well with water and can compete with AW additives.

Redline has some oils which have the highest concentration of esters in the market. That's their niche. However a lot of motor oils contain some esters (ex, M1 FS 0w40, Castrol Magnatec(?), "High Mileage" oils of any brand) in varying amounts.

In the end it's the final product which matters. Motor oils are a blend of base stocks, viscosity index improvers, pour point depressants, additive pack, etc, designed for a specific application (ex, HD diesel, Street, Racing, etc).
I switched to redline 5w50 and the car seems to love it. Warms up faster and the engine isnt as noisy. worth the switch.
Noah760 wrote
I switched to redline 5w50 and the car seems to love it. Warms up faster and the engine isnt as noisy. worth the switch.
Same experience for me
Napa was selling M1 5W50 for $5.49 recently. Not as much esters as Redline but still a very good oil.
330indy wrote
11.75 each by my calculations
I was too quick to post, only go by 1qt instead of the dozen.
Frozen wrote
Noah760 wrote
I switched to redline 5w50 and the car seems to love it. Warms up faster and the engine isnt as noisy. worth the switch.
Same experience for me
I think the car warms up sightly faster otherwise I don't notice any other changes. Oil consumption didn't change.
pbonsalb wrote
I don’t track. I also don’t live in unpopulated canyons or mountains where you can safely race around. So I would not say I drive hard.

My redline is 8600 rpm, but honestly, I have a 6MT so it’s more work to pull off redline shifts every time I drive so I can’t say I do it all the time. If I had a DCT and just had to floor it to do redline shifts, I would do a lot more of them. Most of my shifts are in the 3000-4000 range in daily driving. I do hit redline, usually through 2nd and 3rd gear if I am merging onto the highway and the road is clear. I seem to hit 8600 in 4th only if I am racing someone.
Officer, I've found him. :lol:
pbonsalb wrote
For my use, 0W40 or 5W40 is fine. If I tracked the car or thought I needed thicker oil, I’d probably run 5W50. I just don’t see the need for 10W60 for typical daily use and I think it is a detriment during cold starts, particularly in freezing temperatures. Porsche GT3 uses 0W40 so it probably would be fine. If you want to learn a lot about oil, read bobistheoilguy dot com and 540blog dot com. There are some very knowledgeable people there.
What 0w40 do you use? Mobil1?
I like the Mobil 1. It’s cheap and easy to find and it’s a good oil — good enough to be factory fill on some very high performance cars. But I would have no problem using Castrol or Redline or some other oils. Since I started changing the oil in 2013, I have used Mobil 1 for all but 3 changes (out of probably 12 to 14).
I've been using 5w50 m1. I also noticed that my vehicle warms up faster than 10w60. At least as quick as when I was using 0w40.

I figured since there really is no data to prove 40vs60 weight, 50 splits the difference. It likely has better cold start performance than 10w60 and it's cheaper too!
S54 - z4m car, using now LM but, starting from cold seems that oil is thick and long to heat the engine. Anybody using oem 10-60 or other brand ?
It is thick and your oil filter will be bypassed until it thins since cold thick oil won’t pass through the filter. And it will take longer to warm up. LM is thicker than Castrol or Shell.

If you are willing to deviate from factory spec, try a 5W50. I have mostly used 0W40 in my S65 that specifies 10W60, although in the past year or two I did buy some 15W50 and 5W50 on sale and have mixed some in and even done a change or two with 5W50.
It is thick and your oil filter will be bypassed until it thins since cold thick oil won’t pass through the filter.

How do you know this? That seems unlikely IMO, at least in temp's above about -10C??
I gained the impression (IIRC) from deansbimmer that the valve only opened in 'emergency' type operations, e.g a filter clogged with debris. Unless you've seen a tech file saying so? :)
I have not done any testing on the S65, but it is my general understanding that the cold, thick oil will bypass the filter. There are lots of general sources on the internet that say this. Here is one:

https://dannysengineportal.com/oil-filter-a-dirty-oil-filter-will-obstruct-the-flow-of-clean-oil/

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-care/all-about-oil/different-types-of-oil-filters-and-how-they-work

If you can find something showing that 10W60 won’t bypass in an S65 at -20F, I’d like to see it. That is about as cold as it gets in my area. I was driving in -22F a couple of years ago.

What I don’t know is how long the bypass lasts. The oil in the pan is filtered so it should be clean. If it’s only a few seconds, it probably does not matter. If you filter is bypassing because you have a bunch of rod bearing debris clogging it, the bypass is not going to end in a few seconds and you have bigger problems.
Interesting, thanks for the links. I wonder what temperatures Mobil consider 'very cold'?
So yea, in that case anyway, a thinner oil will mean the bypass valve closing earlier at the critical cold temperature ranges, (whatever they are! ;) [edit] A short look turned up nothing, other than 'cold' :p). So 10w/60 would be affected more than most other oils, bar the old 20w/x oils, lol.
Same, mine gets garaged through the winters ;).
My DD (a 330d) deals with the winter, it's got 5w/40 in it.
oolas3 wrote
I’ve been using Mobil 5w50 FS and would recommend.
Me too, my car love it!:party0030:
Golddots wrote
I've been using 5w50 m1. I also noticed that my vehicle warms up faster than 10w60. At least as quick as when I was using 0w40.
The HTHS viscosity is 4.4 for the M1 oil which is quite a bit lower than either the Redline (5.0) or the Castrol 10w60 (5.6). Have any of you done any oil analysis to see if there is any engine wear with those oils? I've been using Ravenol 10w50 (5.4) and haven't seen any signs of engine wear in my Blackstone reports.