Rear Spherical Bearings Conversion on Stock Arms

If there's another 2-3 guys interested in the tapered washers (aside from those already on waitlist), I will check to see if we can get a other batch of 10 sets done up.

Please put your name in this thread if you're interested:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781246

Can anyone comment as to how labor-intensive swapping out all of these bushings will be? Would dropping the subframe (most likely) be necessary?

911r wrote

Can anyone comment as to how labor-intensive swapping out all of these bushings will be? Would dropping the subframe (most likely) be necessary?

The subframe side already has bearings, so this would be for the hub side. You wouldn't need to drop the subframe for this

b4hand wrote

911r wrote

Can anyone comment as to how labor-intensive swapping out all of these bushings will be? Would dropping the subframe (most likely) be necessary?

The subframe side already has bearings, so this would be for the hub side. You wouldn't need to drop the subframe for this

Yup! You're totally right — only inboard subframe bushing that would need to be replaced is on the trailing arm, which is easily accessible. Was worried about removing and replacing the rear guide arms & rear wishbones but it seems possible. Cheers!

911r wrote

Yup! You're totally right — only inboard subframe bushing that would need to be replaced is on the trailing arm, which is easily accessible. Was worried about removing and replacing the rear guide arms & rear wishbones but it seems possible. Cheers!

And it looks like I didn't read the table fully either

b4hand wrote

The subframe side already has bearings, so this would be for the hub side. You wouldn't need to drop the subframe for this

If you are aiming to remove the upper arms, those bolts require the subframe at least to be loosen to get those inner bolts out. It hits the chassis if you don't.

Redd wrote

If there's another 2-3 guys interested in the tapered washers (aside from those already on waitlist), I will check to see if we can get a other batch of 10 sets done up.

Please put your name in this thread if you're interested:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781246

I'm trying to get another batch of washers done up. Pls let me know if you're keen in the link above.

I've been good this year so Santa dropped by with the rest of the goodies for this conversion.

Meyle 3147100005 Bearings (Item B)


Meyle with tapered washer


Meyle with ECS rear trailing arm (fits nicely!)


Edit - These Meyle bearings are from the 'Meyle-Original' product line and there's a 'Made In Turkey' sticker on the box (so, not a China product that some people are concerned about).

Comparing the Meyle bearing with a Lemforder bearing I have (for the rear camber arm, hub-side). The Lemforder has a polished outer shell whereas the Meyle one doesn't. However, the Lemforder shell shows rust spots. The Meyle inner ring looks higher quality than the Lemforder one. I tried to spin both bearings and both are tight. Maybe not meant to be spinnable by hand. Hopefully the Meyle ones will last.




BimmerWorld Rear Camber Arm Bearing Kit (Item A)
The BW rear camber arm bearing kit has 3 components - the bearing itself, an inner sleeve (2 pcs per bearing) and an outer sleeve.






Will post more when I have them installed.

derbo wrote

If you are aiming to remove the upper arms, those bolts require the subframe at least to be loosen to get those inner bolts out. It hits the chassis if you don't.

You can get them out without touching the SF. I have done so. The only issue is fitting the torque wrench when re-installing.

slicer wrote

You can get them out without touching the SF. I have done so. The only issue is fitting the torque wrench when re-installing.

Did you cut the bolt?

derbo wrote

slicer wrote

You can get them out without touching the SF. I have done so. The only issue is fitting the torque wrench when re-installing.

Did you cut the bolt?

I did not need to cut the bolts for the upper arms. The only rear bolt that needs cutting is the sway bar end link bolt where it attaches to the hub assembly.

Question - when replacing the rear trailing arm bushings, do you guys have a specific tool (or method) you recommend?

I was looking at the Bav auto tool kit # B8800101 but wasn't sure if this was the best option, or if it was necessary.

wootloops wrote

Question - when replacing the rear trailing arm bushings, do you guys have a specific tool (or method) you recommend?

I was looking at the Bav auto tool kit # B8800101 but wasn't sure if this was the best option, or if it was necessary.

Clip showing how the tool is used , I used the same tool to do mine . Made it super easy

atopa2002 wrote

Clip showing how the tool is used , I used the same tool to do mine . Made it super easy

Perfect. Thank you!

Just installed the BimmerWorld rear camber arm bearing kit. The outer sleeve slides in freely by hand and needs to be tack welded to the subframe. Also pressed out the rear trailing arm bushing on the subframe (inboard) side and pressed in the Meyle spherical bearings. No drama, and no NVH to speak of. Haven't driven the car hard so can't comment on any differences yet.

The stock rubber bushes were in surprisingly good shape despite having 137k kms on them. The rear camber arm bush was compressed slightly on one side probably due to the weight of the car, but otherwise looks to be in good shape. It wasn't dried out or brittle.

Also pressed the Meyle bearings into the wishbones and guide rods. Again, no complications - they went in straight and smooth. Will find some time to get the arms installed soon together with new wheel bearings.

Anyone know where I can get the bushings? Meyles are back ordered on FCP, and there are only 4 Lemforders left on eBay.

I guess everyone found out Schirmer sells the same Meyle bearings at 2-3x the price and ordered them off FCP.

Well either someone else found out about this or all you guys bought all the bearings

None available that I can find.

Got all the new arms with sphericals installed with no issues. The blue circlips are Meyle bearings. Replaced the camber arm outboard bearings with new Lemforders as there was play at 137k kms. Camber arm inboards are BW Camber Arm Bearing Kit.

'While I was there' I also did rear wheel bearings, ECS trailing arms, Powerflex Street (Yellow) rear shock mounts, and also recond the half shafts since some of the CV boots were torn. So basically a whole rear end refresh.

Then we discovered that the power steering rack was leaking so I had to get that done, too. Car's still up in the air waiting for the rack. Can't wait to drive it!

Redd wrote

Got all the new arms with sphericals installed with no issues. The blue circlips are Meyle bearings. Replaced the camber arm outboard bearings with new Lemforders as there was play at 137k kms. Camber arm inboards are BW Camber Arm Bearing Kit.

'While I was there' I also did rear wheel bearings, ECS trailing arms, Powerflex Street (Yellow) rear shock mounts, and also recond the half shafts since some of the CV boots were torn. So basically a whole rear end refresh.

Then we discovered that the power steering rack was leaking so I had to get that done, too. Car's still up in the air waiting for the rack. Can't wait to drive it!

Great job. Looking good. My power steering rack is leaking too. Slow leak but it's like internal leak. Please update on the rack replacement

tlrid3r wrote

Great job. Looking good. My power steering rack is leaking too. Slow leak but it's like internal leak. Please update on the rack replacement

Mine's getting reconditioned by a local specialist. Won't be replacing it per se.

Redd wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Great job. Looking good. My power steering rack is leaking too. Slow leak but it's like internal leak. Please update on the rack replacement

Mine's getting reconditioned by a local specialist. Won't be replacing it per se.

Wow I didn't know that was possible. I'll looking into that as well in my area.