Let's compare oils

Below freezing is nothing for most cars with sensible oil grade + clearances, more of a problem for the S65 though. No need to increase the risk (even if only slightly) with a 15w cold grade, especially when 5w/50 is available.

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

As long as you keep your OCI in check. Esters are oxidizing much faster. Forget time interval, watch your mileage. IMO, anything pass 5K on Redline is gambling with oxidation.

anyway, which oil filter? as recomended there:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343867

OEM oil filter kit (with seals and copper crush washers) = Mahle OX254D3 (also packaged and sold as Hastings LF667)


and air filter = Mahle (or Clevite) LX1590

plus cabin filters = Corteco MicronAir CC1377 (80001029)

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Troy Jeup also has the weirdest set of text messages publicly displayed on google lol.

Bartledoo wrote

Troy Jeup also has the weirdest set of text messages publicly displayed on google lol.

This is true. Some real horror stories.

I can't say enough about how Redline HPMO keeps mine clean
(2000 z3)

Does anyone have any experience with Fuchs titan race pro s? They've got a 10w60 full ester oil, and I've been running it for over a year now, with a decent handful of track days mixed in with once a week driving just to keep fluids moving and seals wet.

leftfootbr8king wrote

Does anyone have any experience with Fuchs titan race pro s? They've got a 10w60 full ester oil, and I've been running it for over a year now, with a decent handful of track days mixed in with once a week driving just to keep fluids moving and seals wet.

Could you do a VOA/UOA on that oil? I used it back in JP before but really curious to see what additives it uses.

leftfootbr8king wrote

Does anyone have any experience with Fuchs titan race pro s? They've got a 10w60 full ester oil, and I've been running it for over a year now, with a decent handful of track days mixed in with once a week driving just to keep fluids moving and seals wet.

Fuchs is largest industrial lubricant manufacturer in Germany. Their product will be of good quality.
From their MSDS I can see maybe 5-10% Esters, the rest combination of PAO and Group III. IMO, average, probably step below Castrol, Motul or Mobil1.

edycol wrote

leftfootbr8king wrote

Does anyone have any experience with Fuchs titan race pro s? They've got a 10w60 full ester oil, and I've been running it for over a year now, with a decent handful of track days mixed in with once a week driving just to keep fluids moving and seals wet.

Fuchs is largest industrial lubricant manufacturer in Germany. Their product will be of good quality.
From their MSDS I can see maybe 5-10% Esters, the rest combination of PAO and Group III. IMO, average, probably step below Castrol, Motul or Mobil1.

Are you looking at msds for Fuchs titan oil in general, or the 10w60 race oil? There's a difference.

The 10w60 is a group 5 base stock, the likes of redline and millers. In Europe this oil seems to be preferred by many in our s65's over even Miller's nanodrive.

leftfootbr8king wrote

Are you looking at msds for Fuchs titan oil in general, or the 10w60 race oil? There's a difference.

The 10w60 is a group 5 base stock, the likes of redline and millers. In Europe this oil seems to be preferred by many in our s65's over even Miller's nanodrive.

Yep, I am looking at 10W60.
First of all, MSDS will not give you the full base stock story. MSDS is required only to list harmful compounds. If the compound is not harmful, it is not listed.
From MSDS, PDS numbers, that oil has 5-10% esters. That is it. Pour point is very high for Ester-based oil.
Does not mean it is bad oil, but personally, I would go Motul, Mobil1 or Castrol.

Fuchs titan 10w60 is not the same as race pro s 10w60. One is API SN and the other is SL/SJ likely due to elevated ZDDP levels.

I'm running the race pro s, that comes in around 1200ppm ZDDP.

kyrix1st wrote

Fuchs titan 10w60 is not the same as race pro s 10w60. One is API SN and the other is SL/SJ likely due to elevated ZDDP levels.

If API has a limit on 10W60, but it could be.
API limits specific grades. For example until API SP, W40 oils had a limit at 1,200. Now they are at 800ppm probably bcs. timing chain test.

guys, question
motor oil Im changing each 5k miles, even previous owner keep BMW interval 15k. Im using Castrol 10W60, as recommended (even believe on the market are better oils).

But what about air and cabin filter?

With oil change I replace also the air filter (Mahle LX1590), previous owner made it 1,5 year a go -5k miles. But the origin filter looks ok, so I belive the change wasnt necessary. Im driving in normal climate, no sands, no dirty roads, no mud, no drive in snow... So its change w oil necessary? I guess in 2 years or 15k miles it should be ok, what you think?

W cabin filters the same story, origin looks clean...

No you don't need to change with every oil change in normal conditions, especially not with just 5k/yr, even if you did 15k miles per year the air filter should be good for 30k (I think that's BMW's standard interval??). With that and the pollen filter, just change it when it's starting to get dirty (with more leeway on the pollen filter).
Oh, pollen filters can be more affected by parking under trees than mileage

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Yep
Went 4+ years with Redline fill and low miles. Blackstone showed it was strong in TBN.
I have zero concerns about Redline in truly extended time OCIs.

330indy wrote

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Yep
Went 4+ years with Redline fill and low miles. Blackstone showed it was strong in TBN.
I have zero concerns about Redline in truly extended time OCIs.

Extended OCI is not RedLine cup of tea. It is not TBN, it is TAN.

edycol wrote

330indy wrote

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Yep
Went 4+ years with Redline fill and low miles. Blackstone showed it was strong in TBN.
I have zero concerns about Redline in truly extended time OCIs.

Extended OCI is not RedLine cup of tea. It is not TBN, it is TAN.

You speculate. Redline is an optimal blend of Group 4&5. Do you speak as if it's all Group 5?
Show me a BSOA where Redline was in the red on TAN.
I have no concern with extended time/ low mile OCIs

330indy wrote

edycol wrote

330indy wrote

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Yep
Went 4+ years with Redline fill and low miles. Blackstone showed it was strong in TBN.
I have zero concerns about Redline in truly extended time OCIs.

Extended OCI is not RedLine cup of tea. It is not TBN, it is TAN.

You speculate. Redline is an optimal blend of Group 4&5. Do you speak as if it's all Group 5?
Show me a BSOA where Redline was in the red on TAN.
I have no concern with extended time/ low mile OCIs

The acidity level of brand new Redline oil is at level of some oils after 7k use.
You have MSDS provided by Redline where you have ester content. In Performance series it is almost 80%. If you don't have TAN in your UOA you are assuming at best what is going on. Regardless whether TBN is enough or not, TAN and TBN under no circumstances should overlap or TAN exceed TBN.

edycol wrote

330indy wrote

edycol wrote

330indy wrote

gilberjj wrote

My thinking on this is simple. I buy the best oil money can buy because this car is not a DD for me. I only change the oil once a year.
I've run Redline in other vehicles in the past and I've never had a reason to doubt it's quality.
Troy Jeup recommends Redline 5w50, and he's built more S85 and S65 motors than anyone else in the USA. Good enough for me. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1592340
From my research, there are plenty of good grade III, IV and V base stock oils. But true full-synthetic, grade V ester formulas are the best oils without any compromises (redline and motul). Expensive, but so is a motor...

Yep
Went 4+ years with Redline fill and low miles. Blackstone showed it was strong in TBN.
I have zero concerns about Redline in truly extended time OCIs.

Extended OCI is not RedLine cup of tea. It is not TBN, it is TAN.

You speculate. Redline is an optimal blend of Group 4&5. Do you speak as if it's all Group 5?
Show me a BSOA where Redline was in the red on TAN.
I have no concern with extended time/ low mile OCIs

The acidity level of brand new Redline oil is at level of some oils after 7k use.
You have MSDS provided by Redline where you have ester content. In Performance series it is almost 80%. If you don't have TAN in your UOA you are assuming at best what is going on. Regardless whether TBN is enough or not, TAN and TBN under no circumstances should overlap or TAN exceed TBN.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tbn-and-tan-in-ester-oils-excellent-info.114241/

After 5 years TBN was 7.7
I sleep like a baby