Rear Spherical Bearings Conversion on Stock Arms

Are people still looking for these bearings? I've got a line on some of the Sidem bearings which are Meyle in quality, for the cheapest price I've seen anywhere so far. (I'm not selling them, can just pass on the source). PM me.

https://3dmmotorsport.com/collections/bmw-m3-e9x/products/bmw-e9x-rear-trailing-arm-ball-joint-conversion-kit

There's some healthy profit margin in that kit.

I got 8 of these (sidem) shipped for half the price of that kit ^^ that has only half the bearings needed for the full swap. Another 30 for the conical washers thanks to @bbanks.

Huge thanks to the users who hacked this mod.

leftfootbr8king wrote

https://3dmmotorsport.com/collections/bmw-m3-e9x/products/bmw-e9x-rear-trailing-arm-ball-joint-conversion-kit

There's some healthy profit margin in that kit.

Damn, that's a huge markup on $18 Meyle bearings!

Pm'd

Many thanks to @Redd for making this thread! I just finished the first stage of my uniball swap and the info here was priceless. I used the Bav Autosport tool set which was worth its weight in gold I was able to easily swap all the bushings with the arms on the car. I have 8 swapped bushings so far for the Meyle Spherical’s. I just have the Bimmerworld Camber Bearing left, and then I’m replacing my toe arm with a SPL adjustable one (328i not M3 so need to swap that too).

Hope to get those done by the weekend. Can’t wait to see how the car feels after this is all done!

Did this conversion during latter half of 2019, although without trailing arm and lower camber arm bearings. Along with powerflex black (monroe actually) upper shock mounts, solid subframe.. car is transformed, and that's coming from something with N54 spastic tq delivery, wheelbase etc. Still can be driftastic at the demand of my right foot but with far more precision, confidence and response.

OEM M arms tend to be lighter as well than aftermarket offerings.

Redd wrote

Just installed the BimmerWorld rear camber arm bearing kit. The outer sleeve slides in freely by hand and needs to be tack welded to the subframe. Also pressed out the rear trailing arm bushing on the subframe (inboard) side and pressed in the Meyle spherical bearings. No drama, and no NVH to speak of. Haven't driven the car hard so can't comment on any differences yet.

The stock rubber bushes were in surprisingly good shape despite having 137k kms on them. The rear camber arm bush was compressed slightly on one side probably due to the weight of the car, but otherwise looks to be in good shape. It wasn't dried out or brittle.

Also pressed the Meyle bearings into the wishbones and guide rods. Again, no complications - they went in straight and smooth. Will find some time to get the arms installed soon together with new wheel bearings.

Did you have to drop the fuel tank?

If you guys are in a bind, maybe I can ship my Meyle set but I bet it'll be shipping prohibitive. But, this is one reason I don't like your local vendors. Salesmen at best with weak engineering. It's a shame Schirmer took note with their garbage launch.

Any chance you can measure the OD of cup #3 that presses the bushing? I have a different set I bought when I did the subframe bushings with various sizes and might be able to use one of those.

Biginboca wrote

Many thanks to @Redd for making this thread! I just finished the first stage of my uniball swap and the info here was priceless. I used the Bav Autosport tool set which was worth its weight in gold I was able to easily swap all the bushings with the arms on the car. I have 8 swapped bushings so far for the Meyle Spherical’s. I just have the Bimmerworld Camber Bearing left, and then I’m replacing my toe arm with a SPL adjustable one (328i not M3 so need to swap that too).

Hope to get those done by the weekend. Can’t wait to see how the car feels after this is all done!

M43S7RO wrote

Any chance you can measure the OD of cup #3 that presses the bushing? I have a different set I bought when I did the subframe bushings with various sizes and might be able to use one of those.

You are the man!! Thanks a bunch!!

Biginboca wrote

Ok. Did anyone take measurements from the Meyle bearing.
I ordered a Delphi version from rockauto. I think it's the right size since it's a replacement Bearing for the control arm in question. If anyone has the info please share.

Here are the measurements for the Delphi bearing.

The OD and length from my Sidem bearings is spot on, just grabbed the calipers to check. The ID is within .1mm and outer flange is within .2mm.

FCP has Meyle stock again, just ordered yesterday.

Meyle 3147100005 bearings
- Inner diameter: 12 mm
- Outer diameter: 45.12 mm
- Height: 48 mm

tlrid3r your Delphi bearings look right.

Can someone give a review here if they noticed the difference after doing spherical bushing into camber arms and guide rods?

fast335i wrote

Can someone give a review here if they noticed the difference after doing spherical bushing into camber arms and guide rods?

Im still not done. It a long time to find the bearing plus the bushing tool. I have two more to go. I'll report back soon.


But also like to hear about what people think so far that have done it.

I have not done the rear trailing arm bushes nor the inner lower camber bush..
Night and day difference, far more response and less "snapback" on corrections enabling you to be more precise with inputs.

I don't have any tyre data to show deflection changing/dynamic alignment etc.

gmx wrote

I have not done the rear trailing arm bushes nor the inner lower camber bush..
Night and day difference, far more response and less "snapback" on corrections enabling you to be more precise with inputs.

I don't have any tyre data to show deflection changing/dynamic alignment etc.

I'm going to do spherical bearing on spindle side next week hopefully my 135i will feel more planted under acceleration. My current upgrades on the rear
Whiteline subframe inserts,
Whiteline lower camber/spring arm stiffer bushings
Manzo toe arms with stiffer bushings
Spherical bearings for trailing arms
LSD with lock down kit
M3 guide rods installed but haven't done spherical bushing on spindle side yet.

Car makes 420whp/470wtq current issue under aceleration steering wheel starts feeling lighter and more loose, as soon as I let go throttle car feels more planted and steering wheel back to stiff again.

Any suggestions from anyone?
Alingment done recently
Bolts are not loose on the arms

N54andS63TU wrote

gmx wrote

I have not done the rear trailing arm bushes nor the inner lower camber bush..
Night and day difference, far more response and less "snapback" on corrections enabling you to be more precise with inputs.

I don't have any tyre data to show deflection changing/dynamic alignment etc.

I'm going to do spherical bearing on spindle side next week hopefully my 135i will feel more planted under acceleration. My current upgrades on the rear
Whiteline subframe inserts,
Whiteline lower camber/spring arm stiffer bushings
Manzo toe arms with stiffer bushings
Spherical bearings for trailing arms
LSD with lock down kit
M3 guide rods installed but haven't done spherical bushing on spindle side yet.

Car makes 420whp/470wtq current issue under aceleration steering wheel starts feeling lighter and more loose, as soon as I let go throttle car feels more planted and steering wheel back to stiff again.

Any suggestions from anyone?
Alingment done recently
Bolts are not loose on the arms

I think it's mostly your subframe bushing. The insert are marginally better. Just install Delrin ones. Some much better. Help the car feel more planted over all. Plus you have a lot more torque than M3.

N54andS63TU wrote

I'm going to do spherical bearing on spindle side next week hopefully my 135i will feel more planted under acceleration. My current upgrades on the rear
Whiteline subframe inserts,
Whiteline lower camber/spring arm stiffer bushings
Manzo toe arms with stiffer bushings
Spherical bearings for trailing arms
LSD with lock down kit
M3 guide rods installed but haven't done spherical bushing on spindle side yet.

Car makes 420whp/470wtq current issue under aceleration steering wheel starts feeling lighter and more loose, as soon as I let go throttle car feels more planted and steering wheel back to stiff again.

Any suggestions from anyone?
Alingment done recently
Bolts are not loose on the arms

If you're transferring a lot of weight rearward with a hard launch the steering should feel lighter.

derbo wrote

b4hand wrote

The subframe side already has bearings, so this would be for the hub side. You wouldn't need to drop the subframe for this

If you are aiming to remove the upper arms, those bolts require the subframe at least to be loosen to get those inner bolts out. It hits the chassis if you don't.

So dumb lol. Other option is chopping the bolt and getting a new one, insert it from the other side

Move Over wrote

So dumb lol. Other option is chopping the bolt and getting a new one, insert it from the other side

I've been told I was wrong and it is possible without removing the subframe

derbo wrote

Move Over wrote

So dumb lol. Other option is chopping the bolt and getting a new one, insert it from the other side

I've been told I was wrong and it is possible without removing the subframe

It's definitely not possible. Runs right into the body of the car. Tried for like an hour before I said f it and dropped it.