What have you done with or to your M3 today?

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

tbuck wrote

I would say yep, you got it, LOL! Very clean car!

Helmsman wrote

Hahaha!! How funny, needed a good laught a Tuesday eve - cheers mate!

stefan_e36 wrote

this is the approach!

cae93 wrote

I knew in the end Roastbeef would go too far....

roastbeef

Davisca455 wrote

I used a sharpie to mark the Toe and Camber setting prior to disassembly.
I lined up the marks during re-assembly and when I checked the Toe and Camber using Longacre Toe plates and Camber gauge, it worked better than I had a right to hope for.

Front Toe: 1/8 In
Rear Toe: 1/8 In
R-Rear Camber: -1-1/4
L-Rear Camber: -1-5/16

With the OEM setup, there were two scenarios that creeped me out:

1) Straight line max acceleration upshifting would cause the rear of the car to have significant (unnerving) lateral movements.
2) On track, in high speed kinks, the rear of my car would display some very unsettling lateral oscillations.
(I'm old school, DSC is always off)

These behaviors were so noticeable, that I decided to invest all of my free time this week installing $275 worth of parts.

After checking the alignment and torquing the non adjustable control arms and sway bar links (at ride height) I just got back from a couple of HARD straight line pulls thru the first 5 gears.
The first pull went so well that I was able to do the second pull with cell phone video in the left hand (not gonna share it).
WAY more stable!
There is no way I would have attempted a max acceleration pull one handed with the OEM setup.

Zero clunks or other noises.

The Jury is out on the Powerflex Purple diff bushings though.
The diff noise is noticeable, but only with the windows up and on smooth pavement.
On coarse asphalt, windows up, the tire noise completely cancels the diff noise.
I will give it some time to try to get used to it, but it's a possibility that I may be headed under the car again...

M43S7RO wrote

Can I ask what you put the car on to get the it in the air and loaded on its tires to measure alignment while also able to make adjustments?

I ask because i did this over the weekend on the ground and it was a pia to raise and lower the car to make adjustments and re-measure.

Thought about rhino ramps on all 4 corners but not sure how well the tires are able to freely slip rather than bind with adjustments.

Davisca455 wrote

I used a sharpie to mark the Toe and Camber setting prior to disassembly.
I lined up the marks during re-assembly and when I checked the Toe and Camber using Longacre Toe plates and Camber gauge, it worked better than I had a right to hope for.

Front Toe: 1/8 In
Rear Toe: 1/8 In
R-Rear Camber: -1-1/4
L-Rear Camber: -1-5/16

With the OEM setup, there were two scenarios that creeped me out:

1) Straight line max acceleration upshifting would cause the rear of the car to have significant (unnerving) lateral movements.
2) On track, in high speed kinks, the rear of my car would display some very unsettling lateral oscillations.
(I'm old school, DSC is always off)

These behaviors were so noticeable, that I decided to invest all of my free time this week installing $275 worth of parts.

After checking the alignment and torquing the non adjustable control arms and sway bar links (at ride height) I just got back from a couple of HARD straight line pulls thru the first 5 gears.
The first pull went so well that I was able to do the second pull with cell phone video in the left hand (not gonna share it).
WAY more stable!
There is no way I would have attempted a max acceleration pull one handed with the OEM setup.

Zero clunks or other noises.

The Jury is out on the Powerflex Purple diff bushings though.
The diff noise is noticeable, but only with the windows up and on smooth pavement.
On coarse asphalt, windows up, the tire noise completely cancels the diff noise.
I will give it some time to try to get used to it, but it's a possibility that I may be headed under the car again...

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

Davisca455 wrote

I didn't actually have to adjust anything.
I only checked that I put the Toe and Camber back to somewhere reasonable during reassembly, and those checks were all done on the ground.

I used Longacre Toe Plates to check Toe.
Super easy.

The setup for checking the rear camber was NOT the safest way, because of the tool I had to use.
The Longacre camber tool references off the hub face.
It involved 2 floor jacks and some large pieces of wood.

I measured the height of the center of the rear hub, then jacked up and removed the rear tire, then set the height of the rear spindle by supporting the car by the rear disc.
The second floor jack and the wood were under the car, not quite touching anything, but within an 1/8".
I also checked the height of the fender lip before and after as a second data point.

I would NOT have crawled under the car to make adjustments with this setup though.
If I had needed to do any adjustments, I probably would have made them only after putting the car on jack stands, then recheck the measurement.

EJT86 wrote

I see you’re running 45/20R4 tires. Any rubbing issues?

M43S7RO wrote

Gotcha, I bought the zackman scientific wheel clamp below with the digital version of the Longacre gauge you have for camber. This makes camber very easy to check and thankfully rear camber was pretty easy to adjust.

Toe was more challenging due to not have any easy way to get ynderneath for adjustments while the tires are loaded.

Davisca455 wrote

I didn't actually have to adjust anything.
I only checked that I put the Toe and Camber back to somewhere reasonable during reassembly, and those checks were all done on the ground.

I used Longacre Toe Plates to check Toe.
Super easy.

The setup for checking the rear camber was NOT the safest way, because of the tool I had to use.
The Longacre camber tool references off the hub face.
It involved 2 floor jacks and some large pieces of wood.

I measured the height of the center of the rear hub, then jacked up and removed the rear tire, then set the height of the rear spindle by supporting the car by the rear disc.
The second floor jack and the wood were under the car, not quite touching anything, but within an 1/8".
I also checked the height of the fender lip before and after as a second data point.

I would NOT have crawled under the car to make adjustments with this setup though.
If I had needed to do any adjustments, I probably would have made them only after putting the car on jack stands, then recheck the measurement.

Davisca455 wrote

These look like they could be part of the solution?

https://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1706&prodid=7167&pagetitle=Economy-SideSlider™-Single-with-3-spacers

But you still have to figure out get under your car.
And if you put these on some sort of pedestal, you still have to make sure the car can't slide off.

M43S7RO wrote

Those look like they would work if I could safely raise them to your point without the car sliding off.

Reminded me of the setup below which I've seen on IG, the plates in the pic look nice because they look like they slide and have the ability to rotate for toe adjustment. The parallel line set up look interesting. Not sure how they make sure left and right are parallel, I asked about what that system is and no reply.

Davisca455 wrote

These look like they could be part of the solution?

https://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1706&prodid=7167&pagetitle=Economy-SideSlider™-Single-with-3-spacers

But you still have to figure out get under your car.
And if you put these on some sort of pedestal, you still have to make sure the car can't slide off.

OG Shark wrote

Had an annoying rattle somewhere in the back, finally decided to take care of it. Think we might have gotten a bit carried away but happy to announce the rattle is gone!

Bubbles wrote

Can you weigh her stripped?

irokwrx wrote

I went to my local CVS to pick up some bandages for my dog. As I was paying for my items I heard my alarm, I go to the door and I see this! WTF!! The guy left the scene but I have 2 cameras in the back and 2 in the front (I have clowned on this in the past...but it paid off). So I was able to give the PoPo his info. I just got it all back together with some new BO headlights. I will say the
mporium undertray stopped it from ripping the whole bumper off. My wheel did not have a scratch!. It was a dodge 3500 PU, It looks like his rear tire and or bumper caught mine