What have you done with or to your M3 today?

anyone have a good source for pre-LCI TPMS?

XKxRome0ox wrote

anyone have a good source for pre-LCI TPMS?

eBay generic tpms. Have them in multiple sets.

DRLane wrote

eBay generic tpms. Have them in multiple sets.

if you could pull up a seller link for a set that you purchased, that'd be greatly appreciated
you know there are like thousands of sellers so i'd rather go with someone that's been tried

XKxRome0ox wrote

DRLane wrote

eBay generic tpms. Have them in multiple sets.

if you could pull up a seller link for a set that you purchased, that'd be greatly appreciated
you know there are like thousands of sellers so i'd rather go with someone that's been tried

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-BMW-M3-E90-Sedan-E92-Coupe-E93-Convertible-New-Gunmetal-Stem-TPMS-Set/252690367602

Davisca455 wrote

I used the Hotchkis bars, front and rear.
I'm at factory ride height, both bars are set at full soft and the OEM end links worked.
The rear bar there were zero issues.
However, the driver's side front was REALLY close to the headlight level sensor linkage at full droop with the bar set at full soft.

Ooo that is a bit tight! Noticeable difference at full soft setting?

Space Fox wrote

Davisca455 wrote

I used the Hotchkis bars, front and rear.
I'm at factory ride height, both bars are set at full soft and the OEM end links worked.
The rear bar there were zero issues.
However, the driver's side front was REALLY close to the headlight level sensor linkage at full droop with the bar set at full soft.

Ooo that is a bit tight! Noticeable difference at full soft setting?

Absolutely a noticeable difference at the full soft settings!
Backing out of the driveway on the first test drive I noticed it.
I angle the car and drop one wheel at a time when backing into the street to keep from scraping the nose of the car.
The bars add NOTICEABLE spring rate to each wheel if they are moving independently from each other.
But, if I hit a bump that is perpendicular to the direction I'm traveling that catches the front wheels at the same moment and then the rear wheels at the same moment, then I don't feel the increased rate.

gkgsvensson wrote

Rod bearings (BE/ARP), VCG with new powder coated covers, dinan monoballs, AutoSolutions SSK, fluid flush and new motor mounts...

What's the best place to get BE bearings and ARP bolts these days? Thx.

I will be joining the 100,000 mile club on my way home from work later this evening. The car has been great to me over the last 3.5yrs and 22,000 miles. Actually just took her on the longest road trip yet over the weekend with a trip up to Asheville. Only about 300 miles each way, and a beautiful drive at that, but I usually don't tend to take my vehicle on the longer drives.

JP10 wrote

I will be joining the 100,000 mile club on my way home from work later this evening. The car has been great to me over the last 3.5yrs and 22,000 miles. Actually just took her on the longest road trip yet over the weekend with a trip up to Asheville. Only about 300 miles each way, and a beautiful drive at that, but I usually don't tend to take my vehicle on the longer drives.

Baby miles, I'm about to hit 172k

Shiza wrote

Baby miles, I'm about to hit 172k

Sheesh, I mean mine is my daily, but my commute is like 14 miles round trip. Prior to about a year and a half ago I traveled roughly 100 nights per year for work, so again the mileage stayed pretty low. Plan to keep her for awhile, don't think my fiance has the same plan in mind haha

tony093 wrote

gkgsvensson wrote

Rod bearings (BE/ARP), VCG with new powder coated covers, dinan monoballs, AutoSolutions SSK, fluid flush and new motor mounts...

What's the best place to get BE bearings and ARP bolts these days? Thx.

I got mine directly from BE.
But I think my timing was extremely fortunate.
Might be a good place to start?
Even if they are out, they might know who has some?

Shiza wrote

JP10 wrote

I will be joining the 100,000 mile club on my way home from work later this evening. The car has been great to me over the last 3.5yrs and 22,000 miles. Actually just took her on the longest road trip yet over the weekend with a trip up to Asheville. Only about 300 miles each way, and a beautiful drive at that, but I usually don't tend to take my vehicle on the longer drives.

Baby miles, I'm about to hit 172k

How has it held up past 150k? Have heard of the odometer doing strange things at higher mileages.

140kish strong here

Idfkman wrote

Shiza wrote

JP10 wrote

I will be joining the 100,000 mile club on my way home from work later this evening. The car has been great to me over the last 3.5yrs and 22,000 miles. Actually just took her on the longest road trip yet over the weekend with a trip up to Asheville. Only about 300 miles each way, and a beautiful drive at that, but I usually don't tend to take my vehicle on the longer drives.

Baby miles, I'm about to hit 172k

How has it held up past 150k? Have heard of the odometer doing strange things at higher mileages.

140kish strong here

No issues with my odometer or anything like that, been the most reliable car I've ever had.

Oil change @ 145k. Wanted to test out 5W50 per Troy Jeup and a local shops recommendation. Also changed driver side xenon bulb so I can pass inspection. Ridiculous that you have to take off the wheel and fender liner to do this!

6+ years in various E9x cars and i still hate the lack of a dipstick! Oil level sensor was bugging giving me "low engine oil" warnings when I filled it. After sitting all night gave me a good reading this morning.

AdM1nsarEas$ wrote

Ubersmooth wrote

Oil change @ 145k. Wanted to test out 5W50 per Troy Jeup and a local shops recommendation. Also changed driver side xenon bulb so I can pass inspection. Ridiculous that you have to take off the wheel and fender liner to do this!

6+ years in various E9x cars and i still hate the lack of a dipstick! Oil level sensor was bugging giving me "low engine oil" warnings when I filled it. After sitting all night gave me a good reading this morning.

hows it rev / feel with the ester based oil?

Initial impressions: it gets to operating temp noticeably quicker. Operates nice and smooth, doesn't get any warmer than the 10w60 previously in it. Haven't beat on the car yet but from my short drives the revs are nice and smooth. Will be paying close attention as I put more miles on it so I can determine if the switch is worth it or not

Ubersmooth wrote

Oil change @ 145k. Wanted to test out 5W50 per Troy Jeup and a local shops recommendation. Also changed driver side xenon bulb so I can pass inspection. Ridiculous that you have to take off the wheel and fender liner to do this!

6+ years in various E9x cars and i still hate the lack of a dipstick! Oil level sensor was bugging giving me "low engine oil" warnings when I filled it. After sitting all night gave me a good reading this morning.

Red Line 5w50 is VERY close in spec to TWS 10W60.

Ubersmooth wrote

Oil change @ 145k. Wanted to test out 5W50 per Troy Jeup and a local shops recommendation. Also changed driver side xenon bulb so I can pass inspection. Ridiculous that you have to take off the wheel and fender liner to do this!

6+ years in various E9x cars and i still hate the lack of a dipstick! Oil level sensor was bugging giving me "low engine oil" warnings when I filled it. After sitting all night gave me a good reading this morning.

Not being an ass, genuinely want to just ask the question directed to you and directed to others who do it.

If a car stock calls for X weight of oil, why do you put in Y?

The Castrol vs LiquiMoly vs Some Magic Juice is one thing, but I just don't get why one would just do a different oil weight to try it out or based on someone telling them.

I know some people do certain engine mods, superchargers, or something else that might call for it, but a stock engine. Why do it? Why risk it?

Grip Addict wrote

Not being an ass, genuinely want to just ask the question directed to you and directed to others who do it.

If a car stock calls for X weight of oil, why do you put in Y?

The Castrol vs LiquiMoly vs Some Magic Juice is one thing, but I just don't get why one would just do a different oil weight to try it out or based on someone telling them.

I know some people do certain engine mods, superchargers, or something else that might call for it, but a stock engine. Why do it? Why risk it?

I run 0W40 mostly. Sometimes mix in 5W50 or 15W50. I don’t see any risk.

I use water because it's cheaper then an oil change and I don't see any risk to it, it's 0w 0. Good stuff

pbonsalb wrote

I run 0W40 mostly. Sometimes mix in 5W50 or 15W50. I don’t see any risk.

The risk is you are putting something in your cars engine that it was not designed to take.

Taking the M3 out of the situation for its oddball weight, pretty much every car has its oil weight printed on the oil cap. I never hear someone taking their commuter Toyota which asks for 0W-20 and just putting 5W-30 in it for shits and giggles.

I haven't really heard of any over arching issues with picking a different weight for our M3s (particularly because I haven't researched to find them), but there is risk there and I just wonder with all the default risks of a E9x M3 you or others choose to force this risk upon themselves.

Siajoon wrote

I use water because it's cheaper then an oil change and I don't see any risk to it, it's 0w 0. Good stuff

I mean that is how I read people just picking a different oil weight, but I didn't want to say it like that lol