Help with changing rear springs

This is a long shot request, but just in case.
Is there anyone here willing to help me change my rear springs? I am at zip code 12211.

I have to switch back from 1100 to 1000, but I hesitate dojng it by myself for the first time.

I know dogbone learn to do it by himself. And I am sure I can learn too.

The car is in my garage in QuickJack and it should not take long.

For anyone else, if I need a spring compression tool, or any other specific tool, let me know what to get. I have all the usual tools already.

I see potential for 4 bolts to take out:
1. Sway bar
2. Control alarm
3. Do I need to take the JRZ bolt out?
4. The spl arm?

that will allow the rear control arm to droop.

The rear control arm can be easily supported by my hydraulic jack and lowered down.

It's easier with a quickjack than a full lift. Use the lower setting on the quickjack

Everything comes apart and together easily, except for the giant bolt on the bottom of the kingpin, that is a PITA to line up later.

No need for a spring compressor

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183011

SYT_Shadow wrote

It's easier with a quickjack than a full lift. Use the lower setting on the quickjack

Everything comes apart and together easily, except for the giant bolt on the bottom of the kingpin, that is a PITA to line up later.

No need for a spring compressor

What can I do to align it up?
Is there something I can do a head of time to make the alignment easier.

atopa2002 wrote

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183011

Thanks.
This is helpful.

i have a helper spring, so would I be able to drop it past the helper spring tension?

I used a long drift punch to align the hole, along with careful use of the jack, when I changed springs on my E90M3.

Key is to keep stress off the bolts as they go in and out. You don't want to booger up the threads.

It's super easy, you can do it!
Having just done this again for maybe the 4th time, the one lesson I forgot is leave the lower shock mount bolt loose, if you tighten it you will never get the outside trailing arm to go over the rear carrier housing swivel bearing (or whatever it's called), as the lower shock bolt pulls that whole U-flange thing together.

Once you have all the bolts off (don't forget the ride height sensor on the driver's side), you can just pull the trailing arm down and it's easy to get the springs out and replaced.

admranger wrote

I used a long drift punch to align the hole, along with careful use of the jack, when I changed springs on my E90M3.

Key is to keep stress off the bolts as they go in and out. You don't want to booger up the threads.

This is exactly what I use to align the spherical bearing with the camber arm hole. Makes it easy.

Only the shock bolt and the outer camber arm bolt need removing.

Have done this about 4 times now, have lost count but as mentioned above, only outer camber arm bolt & strut bolt need to come out. Height leveling arm safe to remove camber arm side attachment to not risk breaking it.

I would suggest leaving strut bolt as last to be tightened. Echoing that the outer arm bushing is the toughest to line up and tightening the strut bolt further pinches the outer arm mount, making it more difficult to maneuver it into place.

I will know Monday if it is worth it to just do the spring.

Ideally to combat my oversteer I will:
1. Change spring back to 1000
2. Increate Toe from 0 up to 1.0 (suggrstions welcome)
3. Lower the rear.

The rear is high because I was testing 305/30/19. The size works but at the cost of jacked up rear.

rhyary wrote

I will know Monday if it is worth it to just do the spring.

Ideally to combat my oversteer I will:
1. Change spring back to 1000
2. Increate Toe from 0 up to 1.0 (suggrstions welcome)
3. Lower the rear.

The rear is high because I was testing 305/30/19. The size works but at the cost of jacked up rear.

All of those will certainly help reduce any oversteer you're having.

What does increase toe 'from 0 to 1.0' mean? What unit of measurement?

tsk94 wrote

rhyary wrote

I will know Monday if it is worth it to just do the spring.

Ideally to combat my oversteer I will:
1. Change spring back to 1000
2. Increate Toe from 0 up to 1.0 (suggrstions welcome)
3. Lower the rear.

The rear is high because I was testing 305/30/19. The size works but at the cost of jacked up rear.

All of those will certainly help reduce any oversteer you're having.

What does increase toe 'from 0 to 1.0' mean? What unit of measurement?

I don't know. Deg and minutes?

But I think bringing Toe to OEM, unless someone here advice less toe than OEM

I am going to attempt this surgery today.

I have two specific question on disassembly.

The JRZ shock has 200psi Nitrogen pressure. It has pressure on the bolt on full droop. What do I do about that?

if I can knock the bolt out. How do I compressed the shock later to line up with the control arm?

For the control arm bolt, I have a helper spring that still keep pressure on the control arm in the full droop position. How do I get the pressure of the bolt?

While I can punch the bolts out with a brass drift, I will still have to deal with lining up the holes on assembly.

Sorry, all might be obvious once I do it once, but I looked at the setup all day yesterday and while looks simple, if I can't put it together later today, I am in big dooddoo.

The links I found describe the OEM shock which will not have the same pressure as the JRZ.

Thanks for every one willing to demystify.

I have the 1000 in.
The shock bolt is in and not tight
The control arm bolt is in all the way to the other side.

Having tough time alining the nut side of the control arm. It is very close but still stragling.

Any tips?

I will check in here in few minutes

rhyary wrote

I am going to attempt this surgery today.

I have two specific question on disassembly.

The JRZ shock has 200psi Nitrogen pressure. It has pressure on the bolt on full droop. What do I do about that?

if I can knock the bolt out. How do I compressed the shock later to line up with the control arm?

For the control arm bolt, I have a helper spring that still keep pressure on the control arm in the full droop position. How do I get the pressure of the bolt?

While I can punch the bolts out with a brass drift, I will still have to deal with lining up the holes on assembly.

Sorry, all might be obvious once I do it once, but I looked at the setup all day yesterday and while looks simple, if I can't put it together later today, I am in big dooddoo.

The links I found describe the OEM shock which will not have the same pressure as the JRZ.

Thanks for every one willing to demystify.

Others feel free to correct, but here's order of operation to keep this simple and clean.

1. Put rear on jack stands. Chock front wheel.
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove caliper from the brackets and place it in a box under to keep weight off line. (optional but nice to lose weight help visibility)
4. Remove rotor (again optional).
5. Place jack under the camber arm and jack to apply light pressure.
6. Remove the strut bolt
7. Remove the camber bolt. Likely need to tap it out.
8. Slowly lower jack and the camber arm will come down. Remove spring / replace.
9. Jack the camber arm back up. You'll likely need to push/pull the hub to get the camber bolt hole to align.
10. Insert camber bolt
11. Insert strut bolt
12. Torque to spec and reinstall brakes.

Done

rhyary wrote

I have the 1000 in.
The shock bolt is in and not tight
The control arm bolt is in all the way to the other side.

Having tough time alining the nut side of the control arm. It is very close but still stragling.

Any tips?

I will check in here in few minutes

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-3-16-in-Steel-Alignment-Punch-603-2/202585592?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-202585592-_-N&

The main issue I am having is to twist the bushings to line it horizontally.

If I use a wrench to line up the nut side, it moves the bushings up and down, but not horizently

Every thing is loose and I can ljne it up with a rod, but it won't stay there to push the bolt thru.

it feels line I am working against a rubber bushings.

Heading over to Homedepot to find a M14 bolt and or 14mm aligment punch.

I need to keep the bushing from twisting.

Also, will remove the caliper and rotor for better visibility.

rhyary wrote

The main issue I am having is to twist the bushings to line it horizontally.

If I use a wrench to line up the nut side, it moves the bushings up and down, but not horizently

Every thing is loose and I can ljne it up with a rod, but it won't stay there to push the bolt thru.

it feels line I am working against a rubber bushings.

If you're talking about the spindle side, it's a spherical bearing. I've done this several times and the alignment punch works everytime.

Bartledoo wrote

rhyary wrote

The main issue I am having is to twist the bushings to line it horizontally.

If I use a wrench to line up the nut side, it moves the bushings up and down, but not horizently

Every thing is loose and I can ljne it up with a rod, but it won't stay there to push the bolt thru.

it feels line I am working against a rubber bushings.

If you're talking about the spindle side, it's a spherical bearing. I've done this several times and the alignment punch works everytime.

Yes, spindle side.
Will be going to local shops to find one

Just did this last week. If you got the shock bolt that far in then you are 98% of the way done so don't remove it and forget the punch. Now just take a second jack and get it under either the disk or that circular thing below the shock bolt (depending on how much room you have to work). You need that leverage point to slightly lift the hub assembly. As you lift it keep jiggling the bolt until it pushes through. You will have to go slightly up and down until you find the perfect spot.