Cyberdemon wroteDid you put the bracket in with the head unit attached? How were you able to connect the adaptor harness if the quad lock is behind the bracket?Once you have everything working, disconnect it and work on slowly tucking and zip tieing cables you can.
The quad lock can tuck to the back right as mentioned. But if your other cables are all overlapping they'll bulk up quickly. Loosening some, tucking some in the compartment behind the HVAC controls will let you get it in a lot easier.
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georgebmwM3 wrotetheres enough slack on the quadlock adaptorCyberdemon wroteDid you put the bracket in with the head unit attached? How were you able to connect the adaptor harness if the quad lock is behind the bracket?Once you have everything working, disconnect it and work on slowly tucking and zip tieing cables you can.
The quad lock can tuck to the back right as mentioned. But if your other cables are all overlapping they'll bulk up quickly. Loosening some, tucking some in the compartment behind the HVAC controls will let you get it in a lot easier.
Thanks everyone for contributing to this thread. Very helpful. Just finished installing and other than a mysterious rattling sound coming from the center console (which I am going to address later), I am pretty happy about the result. A few tips here -
a) As pointed out by gtenedio, move the bracket helps a lot. It took me one attempt and 10 mins to put the CIC back. You don't even need to remove the bracket from the center console, just pull it out so that you have enough room to tuck the quadrolock between the bracket and the glovebox. There are 6 screws in total to remove before pulling it out. Check out
b) As people mentioned before, when putting everything back, planning is essential:
--there are some slacks to the left of the bracket where you can tuck the excess LVDS IN/OUT cables.
-- Backup camera RCA/12V, unused AUX, another ground line (forgot what it is) go into the space below the glove box (assuming that's how you run your backup camera cable)
c) Fishing the cable was a major bitch for me. Especially the RCA version, save yourself sometime and get the low profile connector version that's recommended in OP's post #1. I didn't have a proper cable fishing tool so I ended up cutting the RCA and solder it back.
d) For E92 owners, don't freak out if your windows are wonky after you put everything back together. Open the window all the way, do a few full up-and-downs, keep it down, close the door, close the window fully and you will be fine. (If not then it's a different problem lol)
Thanks again for sharing and contributing everyone!
a) As pointed out by gtenedio, move the bracket helps a lot. It took me one attempt and 10 mins to put the CIC back. You don't even need to remove the bracket from the center console, just pull it out so that you have enough room to tuck the quadrolock between the bracket and the glovebox. There are 6 screws in total to remove before pulling it out. Check out
-- You don't need to remove the metal piece at the bottom (just the two #8 hex). Remember to pull your carsara box out before doing this, since it's a snug fit for the box it actually interferes with bracket moving if you didn't pull it out a little.
b) As people mentioned before, when putting everything back, planning is essential:
--there are some slacks to the left of the bracket where you can tuck the excess LVDS IN/OUT cables.
-- Backup camera RCA/12V, unused AUX, another ground line (forgot what it is) go into the space below the glove box (assuming that's how you run your backup camera cable)
c) Fishing the cable was a major bitch for me. Especially the RCA version, save yourself sometime and get the low profile connector version that's recommended in OP's post #1. I didn't have a proper cable fishing tool so I ended up cutting the RCA and solder it back.
d) For E92 owners, don't freak out if your windows are wonky after you put everything back together. Open the window all the way, do a few full up-and-downs, keep it down, close the door, close the window fully and you will be fine. (If not then it's a different problem lol)
Thanks again for sharing and contributing everyone!
cheweihu wroteCan't see any reason your windows should have an issue. Sounds like you might just happen to have a window regulator issue or something like that. Possibly an electrical gremlin that cropped up from having the battery disconnected.d) For E92 owners, don't freak out if your windows are wonky after you put everything back together. Open the window all the way, do a few full up-and-downs, keep it down, close the door, close the window fully and you will be fine. (If not then it's a different problem lol)
Thanks again for sharing and contributing everyone!
Cyberdemon wroteI should have explained this better - this is actually a common thing happens when the battery is disconnected for too long (I left it disconnected overnight). The steps were to establish and reset the upper limit of the window. It doesn't have anything to do with installing Carsara but might happen to some people like me who disconnect the battery for too long.Can't see any reason your windows should have an issue. Sounds like you might just happen to have a window regulator issue or something like that. Possibly an electrical gremlin that cropped up from having the battery disconnected.
I successfully installed the CIC unit in my 2013 M3, and am very happy with it.
While the 380 posts in this thread and the BimmerTech video cover the process thoroughly, I just wanted to list some of the details for my install. And suggestions on when to deviate from the video.
0. I did not initially use Bimmercode to change the audio USB values suggested, but I did it later and would highly recommend it.
1. Disconnect battery and place a towel over the trunk latch so that it doesn't accidentally close. Yes, I closed it and it took some physical contortions to open it with a disconnected battery.
2. In contrast to the BimmerTech video, the long trim piece with the Start button does NOT need to be removed; it only needs to be snapped out about one inch on the left side. Nothing needs to be disconnected on this piece. So skip 1:28 to 2:20 in the video.
3. Pull out the A/C control panel as in the video. It has an upper lip which necessitates loosening (but not removing) the long trim piece above.
4. Be careful when removing the trim piece around the DVD unit - only remove the trim piece as in the video and not the DVD panel at the same time. Mine were kinda stuck together and the DVD panel ripped off the headunit damaging its tabs. (It is designed to slide off the headunit to the side, not straight off; it also has a small delicate electrical connector.)
5. The cables behind the headunit are even shorter/tighter than in the video. Be patient; different techniques are needed for the different cables.
6. Around 4:20 in the video, the fiber optic cable is moved from the OEM connector to the new cable connector. Since this cable is very "short", I cut off the tape at the end of the harness from which it comes to give it a bit more slack. I then installed a small zip-tie about one inch further down on the harness to keep it from unraveling. The extra inch made a big difference on assembly.
7. While I removed the center paneling, it turned out to be unnecessary on my M3 because the iDrive control only worked when it had a factory connection. Cyberdemon stated this is often the case. So skip 4:55 to 5:52 in the video.
8. As in the video, I removed the A-pillar cover. With 20-20 hindsight, I would not have removed it entirely because on re-assembly I could not get both tabs back into the dash. Others have reported this difficulty too. It might take a few extra minutes to route the Mic cable if the cover is not completely removed, but with 10-15 minute effort I could not fully get both tabs back in.
9. I removed the top panel from the headliner as in the video. I had done this before; it is difficult the first time to "feel" where the two release clips are. However I did not fully remove it as only the Mic cable needs to be snapped in.
10. Install the mic cable and re-install the pillar cover as in the video. It should be trivial if you didn't pull out the pillar cover entirely. (I actually re-installed it later after final testing.)
11. I did not need a big zip-tie to feed the mic cable into the dash area. My mic cable had a common mini-jack instead of the two wire connector as in the video at 12:02.
12. While I tried all permutations of the iDrive cable, none worked; the stock connection worked perfectly. Therefore skip 12:11 to 13:03.
13. The antenna and other cables are setup exactly as in the video.
14. One difference I noticed is that my harness had a ground wire not mentioned in the video. Using an ohm meter, I verified that the two 8mm bolts under the headunit are grounded to the chassis. Therefore I crimped a ring lug on the wire and grounded it under the bolt. It also grounds the black wire in the upcoming USB cable.
15. The "USB" cable also has the video input and control wires for an optional reverse-backup camera. I didn't want to install that now; therefore, I spliced 2 ft wires to the control wires to lengthen them for easy access at a later date. And connected the long video cable that came with the backup camera. I routed everything to the passenger side footwell where it will hide above the panel.
16. On the MMI, DIP switches 3 and 4 were ON, all others OFF.
17. I then installed all cables on the MMI and the headunit for testing. Reconnected the battery. (After dealing with the accidentally closed trunk.) This is when I discovered that the iDrive cable options did work (as mentioned above). I plugged the headunit connector into "CAN Low speed" after removing the jumper wires. Power on (since the power button was not removed) and CarPlay came up. Sweet! I confirmed that plugging the long audio cable into the AUX jack gave me sound, but as mentioned, I then decided to do the coding instead.
18. Power off and I re-installed the jumper wires onto the headunit connector; someone mentioned this was necessary for coding. Using BimmerCode I made the coding changes. Then again removed the jumper wire and reconnected to "CAN Low speed".
19. Power back on and confirmed that I now got sound from my iPhone apps without the audio cable and AUX connector. Note that the MMI and headunit are just dangling over the console. (Protected with towel.)
20. As mentioned in the video, it is vital to keep all cables organized and, as much as possible, not sitting directly behind the headunit. BMW had a zip-tie connection behind/under the headunit and I expanded on that to keep cables tidy.
21. Unlike the video, I installed the headunit first as this let me keep all cable taught as there is no "bunching" room behind the headunit. Next, I installed the MMI which fit tighter in the plastic brackets than expected.
22. After one final test, I then reinstalled the A-pillar cover, the under-dash driver's side cover and everything else.
I'm not sure how much time all this took, but maybe 6 hours. (Plus opening the trunk.) By coding first, skipping the unnecessary steps related to the iDrive cable and not pulling the A-pillar cover out completely, would have saved about 2 hours.
Perhaps this will help someone with a similar car. In any case I would suggest a test before re-installing everything.
While the 380 posts in this thread and the BimmerTech video cover the process thoroughly, I just wanted to list some of the details for my install. And suggestions on when to deviate from the video.
0. I did not initially use Bimmercode to change the audio USB values suggested, but I did it later and would highly recommend it.
1. Disconnect battery and place a towel over the trunk latch so that it doesn't accidentally close. Yes, I closed it and it took some physical contortions to open it with a disconnected battery.
2. In contrast to the BimmerTech video, the long trim piece with the Start button does NOT need to be removed; it only needs to be snapped out about one inch on the left side. Nothing needs to be disconnected on this piece. So skip 1:28 to 2:20 in the video.
3. Pull out the A/C control panel as in the video. It has an upper lip which necessitates loosening (but not removing) the long trim piece above.
4. Be careful when removing the trim piece around the DVD unit - only remove the trim piece as in the video and not the DVD panel at the same time. Mine were kinda stuck together and the DVD panel ripped off the headunit damaging its tabs. (It is designed to slide off the headunit to the side, not straight off; it also has a small delicate electrical connector.)
5. The cables behind the headunit are even shorter/tighter than in the video. Be patient; different techniques are needed for the different cables.
6. Around 4:20 in the video, the fiber optic cable is moved from the OEM connector to the new cable connector. Since this cable is very "short", I cut off the tape at the end of the harness from which it comes to give it a bit more slack. I then installed a small zip-tie about one inch further down on the harness to keep it from unraveling. The extra inch made a big difference on assembly.
7. While I removed the center paneling, it turned out to be unnecessary on my M3 because the iDrive control only worked when it had a factory connection. Cyberdemon stated this is often the case. So skip 4:55 to 5:52 in the video.
8. As in the video, I removed the A-pillar cover. With 20-20 hindsight, I would not have removed it entirely because on re-assembly I could not get both tabs back into the dash. Others have reported this difficulty too. It might take a few extra minutes to route the Mic cable if the cover is not completely removed, but with 10-15 minute effort I could not fully get both tabs back in.
9. I removed the top panel from the headliner as in the video. I had done this before; it is difficult the first time to "feel" where the two release clips are. However I did not fully remove it as only the Mic cable needs to be snapped in.
10. Install the mic cable and re-install the pillar cover as in the video. It should be trivial if you didn't pull out the pillar cover entirely. (I actually re-installed it later after final testing.)
11. I did not need a big zip-tie to feed the mic cable into the dash area. My mic cable had a common mini-jack instead of the two wire connector as in the video at 12:02.
12. While I tried all permutations of the iDrive cable, none worked; the stock connection worked perfectly. Therefore skip 12:11 to 13:03.
13. The antenna and other cables are setup exactly as in the video.
14. One difference I noticed is that my harness had a ground wire not mentioned in the video. Using an ohm meter, I verified that the two 8mm bolts under the headunit are grounded to the chassis. Therefore I crimped a ring lug on the wire and grounded it under the bolt. It also grounds the black wire in the upcoming USB cable.
15. The "USB" cable also has the video input and control wires for an optional reverse-backup camera. I didn't want to install that now; therefore, I spliced 2 ft wires to the control wires to lengthen them for easy access at a later date. And connected the long video cable that came with the backup camera. I routed everything to the passenger side footwell where it will hide above the panel.
16. On the MMI, DIP switches 3 and 4 were ON, all others OFF.
17. I then installed all cables on the MMI and the headunit for testing. Reconnected the battery. (After dealing with the accidentally closed trunk.) This is when I discovered that the iDrive cable options did work (as mentioned above). I plugged the headunit connector into "CAN Low speed" after removing the jumper wires. Power on (since the power button was not removed) and CarPlay came up. Sweet! I confirmed that plugging the long audio cable into the AUX jack gave me sound, but as mentioned, I then decided to do the coding instead.
18. Power off and I re-installed the jumper wires onto the headunit connector; someone mentioned this was necessary for coding. Using BimmerCode I made the coding changes. Then again removed the jumper wire and reconnected to "CAN Low speed".
19. Power back on and confirmed that I now got sound from my iPhone apps without the audio cable and AUX connector. Note that the MMI and headunit are just dangling over the console. (Protected with towel.)
20. As mentioned in the video, it is vital to keep all cables organized and, as much as possible, not sitting directly behind the headunit. BMW had a zip-tie connection behind/under the headunit and I expanded on that to keep cables tidy.
21. Unlike the video, I installed the headunit first as this let me keep all cable taught as there is no "bunching" room behind the headunit. Next, I installed the MMI which fit tighter in the plastic brackets than expected.
22. After one final test, I then reinstalled the A-pillar cover, the under-dash driver's side cover and everything else.
I'm not sure how much time all this took, but maybe 6 hours. (Plus opening the trunk.) By coding first, skipping the unnecessary steps related to the iDrive cable and not pulling the A-pillar cover out completely, would have saved about 2 hours.
Perhaps this will help someone with a similar car. In any case I would suggest a test before re-installing everything.
And some pictures:
Here is how I grounded the wires:
.HEIC?fit=bounds)
Here is everything dangling during testing:
\.HEIC?fit=bounds)
Testing is successful:
.HEIC?fit=bounds)
Cables cleaned up for install of headunit:
.HEIC?fit=bounds)
Success:
Here is how I grounded the wires:
Here is everything dangling during testing:
\
Testing is successful:
Cables cleaned up for install of headunit:
Success:
Thank you very much! Will give the alter volume thing a shot and keep the password handy in case it locks me out again. Much appreciated.
Cyberdemon wrote1) Believe the password is 88888888, there should be a screen that displays it when you try to pair.
2) There is a volume setting called "Alter Volume" that should change the notification volume.
I was wondering if anyone running these boxes ran into an issue with the audio cutting out when switching to a camera feed? I was looking into the Andream unit as I liked the packaging, and getting a newer touchscreen as well. However, there are reports of audio cutting off when the reverse camera was activated.
bugg wroteNo issues on my unit.I was wondering if anyone running these boxes ran into an issue with the audio cutting out when switching to a camera feed? I was looking into the Andream unit as I liked the packaging, and getting a newer touchscreen as well. However, there are reports of audio cutting off when the reverse camera was activated.
FloorBeamer wroteThis was 100% due to the connectors on the HVAC control panel not being fully seated. Ask me how I know!I thougt that everything was ok, but.... My airconditioning wasn’t working properly anymore. It did make the sound of blowing, but did not blow. Aaaaargh!
Quick question guys, for the people who connected the idrive controller from A-B which means you cannot code the idrive does this also effect updating the service miles and date section can this still be done if anyone try it ?
cheweihu wroted) For E92 owners, don't freak out if your windows are wonky after you put everything back together. Open the window all the way, do a few full up-and-downs, keep it down, close the door, close the window fully and you will be fine. (If not then it's a different problem lol)
Cyberdemon wroteI haven't installed my carsara yet but I actually ran into the same problem with my windows after installing my first carplay box. It has something to do with the battery being disconnected for awhile and the window needs to be reset for it lower it a bit when you open your door. Otherwise your window hits the trim and makes you feel like it's going to shatter when you open the door.Can't see any reason your windows should have an issue. Sounds like you might just happen to have a window regulator issue or something like that. Possibly an electrical gremlin that cropped up from having the battery disconnected.
The video below is what I think I used to reset the windows if it does this.
Looking through the thread, I haven't seen anyone attempt to keep an AUX input + use the quadlock for a proper audio signal with headunit, is anything like this possible? I noticed the unit itself has an aux input, can that be used as an input?
omareabbasi wroteThe audio out is for those that have OEM coded AUX with USB in the center console armrest. You can get an AUX splitter cable, but it will not yield optimal sound quality.Looking through the thread, I haven't seen anyone attempt to keep an AUX input + use the quadlock for a proper audio signal with headunit, is anything like this possible? I noticed the unit itself has an aux input, can that be used as an input?
Has anyone else had any issues with the iDrive controller freezing up? Every few days or so, the controller stops working and I get this error for the rest of the day. If i garage my car overnight, it usually works again in the morning. I've reached out to the seller and I really don't know what else to do.
I installed the Carsara box today in my 2013 e92. Pretty simple process due to all the great info in this thread. Coded the three USB options prior to install so I did not have to run anything into the console or armrest. Audio comes through the quadlock and the idrive knob works perfectly. I’m not installing the camera so I left that harness out entirely. I saw in the official instructions a note that the microphone wire might somehow be optional, so I tried things out first without running that cable up to the overhead control panel. No luck. After running the mic cable and jumping into the connection, everything was perfect after just a few tweaks in the settings menu.
This solution coupled with my induktiv charging mat is quite the combo. I’m really happy with it. I previously put the AVIN Android unit in my M5 and it was just too fiddly and too compromised. The carsara box works how I expect at every turn and feels like it’s about the closest thing I could get to a factory wireless CarPlay solution short of BMW pulling a Porsche and offering OE retrofits. Highly recommend this install to anyone on the fence.
This solution coupled with my induktiv charging mat is quite the combo. I’m really happy with it. I previously put the AVIN Android unit in my M5 and it was just too fiddly and too compromised. The carsara box works how I expect at every turn and feels like it’s about the closest thing I could get to a factory wireless CarPlay solution short of BMW pulling a Porsche and offering OE retrofits. Highly recommend this install to anyone on the fence.
magungo wroteIt's likely a bad/intermittent connection issue. Depending on how neatly you dressed the wires you may want to try removing the CIC and see if anything is interfering with the main harness. It's very snug back there with all the extra crap you have to stick in.Has anyone else had any issues with the iDrive controller freezing up? Every few days or so, the controller stops working and I get this error for the rest of the day. If i garage my car overnight, it usually works again in the morning. I've reached out to the seller and I really don't know what else to do.
Using oem mic, people calling me say the sound is bad, what settings did you put in the audio section of the carsara?
Bamboo123 wrotedont suppose anyone had a service recently and the garage managed to reset the service time ?Quick question guys, for the people who connected the idrive controller from A-B which means you cannot code the idrive does this also effect updating the service miles and date section can this still be done if anyone try it ?
discoboy1 wroteI did not need to modify any audio settings for the phone. I'd suggest trying to call someone while you're near the car and have them speak to you from both sides - just to rule out something obvious like you having bad reception. Also consider pairing a different phone to rule out bluetooth on your device.Using oem mic, people calling me say the sound is bad, what settings did you put in the audio section of the carsara?
Just got my unit today - going to begin the install but a few things im still unclear of. First, I never got instructions. Is it supposed to come with some factory guide?
"E9X M3 Note: The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B# for Canbus High, or A#->B# for Canbus Low.). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed."
A little confused about the above - Planning to go the coding route for audio and will leave out the idrive extension cable. To do that, do I just disconnect the jumper (D) or do I need to change the can connections - i.e. connecting L#->B#? If so what about A# as there is only one B#?
Other thing is the backup camera. I currently have an aftermarket installed using an emulator based on this guide:
~DIY: $130 Rear View Camera with OEM integration (vendors will hate me)~
I was planning to remove the emulator and connect my wiring up to carsara. Do I need to do anything with the purple "Reverse Detect" wire or just wire up the red power, yellow 12V and ground to my video cable?
Thanks!
"E9X M3 Note: The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B# for Canbus High, or A#->B# for Canbus Low.). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed."
A little confused about the above - Planning to go the coding route for audio and will leave out the idrive extension cable. To do that, do I just disconnect the jumper (D) or do I need to change the can connections - i.e. connecting L#->B#? If so what about A# as there is only one B#?
Other thing is the backup camera. I currently have an aftermarket installed using an emulator based on this guide:
~DIY: $130 Rear View Camera with OEM integration (vendors will hate me)~
I was planning to remove the emulator and connect my wiring up to carsara. Do I need to do anything with the purple "Reverse Detect" wire or just wire up the red power, yellow 12V and ground to my video cable?
Thanks!
