Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

Msidhu1 wrote

CD1 is not showing up. Anytime I reset the unit - it goes from CD -- to CD unchecked to CD--.

How did you code the CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc? NCSExpert? Bimmercode? Other?

Something I would try is coding back the CDMM_CHANGER_3 option to original setting, check the setting took effect and then code back to mp3_cdc.

djan9el wrote

First thing that comes to mind is to verify your Mr12Volt unit installed software and firmware versions. Post the information to see if it matches ours.

Also, is this how you are connecting the LVDS cable?


It wasn't clear for me when installing, so maybe this is causing the issue?

I think is pink, but could be purple. I'm getting old

It turns out my issue, as stupid as it is, was the dip switches... I had flipped them all ON initially (thinking that down was OFF). Once I flipped them back to the default OFF position I could choose CD1 and smooth sailing from there.

frittel wrote

It turns out my issue, as stupid as it is, was the dip switches... I had flipped them all ON initially (thinking that down was OFF). Once I flipped them back to the default OFF position I could choose CD1 and smooth sailing from there.

djan9el wrote

Msidhu1 wrote

CD1 is not showing up. Anytime I reset the unit - it goes from CD -- to CD unchecked to CD--.

How did you code the CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc? NCSExpert? Bimmercode? Other?

Something I would try is coding back the CDMM_CHANGER_3 option to original setting, check the setting took effect and then code back to mp3_cdc.

I used bimmercode app. I will try reverting back to original and recode.

Only thing that stands out is that my idrive was replaced in 2015. Is there registration process even if it is like to like change?

Msidhu1 wrote

I used bimmercode app. I will try reverting back to original and recode.

Only thing that stands out is that my idrive was replaced in 2015. Is there registration process even if it is like to like change?

I don't know the answer to this. Maybe someone else in the forum can chime in with some information. If you are able to use NCSexpert, maybe read the CIC ECU and attached the exported .TRC file with your current settings. Some of us can review the options and maybe compare to ours and see if something stands out.

djan9el wrote

Msidhu1 wrote

I used bimmercode app. I will try reverting back to original and recode.

Only thing that stands out is that my idrive was replaced in 2015. Is there registration process even if it is like to like change?

I don't know the answer to this. Maybe someone else in the forum can chime in with some information. If you are able to use NCSexpert, maybe read the CIC ECU and attached the exported .TRC file with your current settings. Some of us can review the options and maybe compare to ours and see if something stands out.

Finally was able to have it connect/recognize.

Looks like previous owner had an iPod retrofit kit installed at some point. Kit and wiring was left in the car behind the glove box. That kit also uses cd changer option to work. Looks like kit was blocking mr 12 volt connection Even-though there was no iPod connected. It worked on first try once I took all the wiring and box out.


Photo of the iPod retrofit kit that was behind the glove box.

Am I right in thinking the rear most connector that is pre installed is disabled with P2000 unit?

Reason I ask it I have a Helix SDMI25 planned for a future high end install which will be connected to a Mosconi AEROSPACE 8to12 DSP.

Ultimately this means this retrofit might not serve me in the pursuit of audio integration and high quality audio.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/accessories/sdmi25

UnicornM wrote

Am I right in thinking the rear most connector that is pre installed is disabled with P2000 unit?

Reason I ask it I have a Helix SDMI25 planned for a future high end install which will be connected to a Mosconi AEROSPACE 8to12 DSP.

Ultimately this means this retrofit might not serve me in the pursuit of audio integration and high quality audio.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/accessories/sdmi25

In my case: Audio loop was complete as radio was functional. Retrofit kit for iPod was using the cd changer/cd1 option to play same as mr 12 box. Not knowingly I created a series connection of idrive to iPod kit to mr 12 box. This was blocking the recognition of the box.
In you case: looks like you just using the signal in and out for audio only. So mr12 box should work.

Caution lol: Now I am accountant by profession and have very basic knowledge of electronics. Other opinions/suggestions might hold more value.

UnicornM wrote

Am I right in thinking the rear most connector that is pre installed is disabled with P2000 unit?

Ultimately this means this retrofit might not serve me in the pursuit of audio integration and high quality audio.

Basically you want to connect another device to the MOST bus, so that should not be a problem as long as that device doesn't emulate the CD Changer like the 12Volt unit does, as you probably can't have two devices doing that at the same time.

That connector however could be just pre-wired and not currently connected to the MOST bus if it was just dangling there and never had anything connected to it, if it was connected to the MOST bus then other devices would not work when the ring is broken, so you'd need a MOST termination loop plugged in there to get everything working. The 12volt unit comes with a termination loop to plug in if you had a cd changer and went to disconnect it.

You would need to either connect that pre-wired MOST wire to the MOST ring behind the glovebox, or like the 12volt unit does, split another active MOST connection, like the TCU/MULF/Combox in the trunk. Either option should work for you to add something to the MOST bus.

tdott wrote

Basically you want to connect another device to the MOST bus, so that should not be a problem as long as that device doesn't emulate the CD Changer like the 12Volt unit does, as you probably can't have two devices doing that at the same time.

That connector however could be just pre-wired and not currently connected to the MOST bus if it was just dangling there and never had anything connected to it, if it was connected to the MOST bus then other devices would not work when the ring is broken, so you'd need a MOST termination loop plugged in there to get everything working. The 12volt unit comes with a termination loop to plug in if you had a cd changer and went to disconnect it.

You would need to either connect that pre-wired MOST wire to the MOST ring behind the glovebox, or like the 12volt unit does, split another active MOST connection, like the TCU/MULF/Combox in the trunk. Either option should work for you to add something to the MOST bus.

That's correct. The Helix is simply taking the audio signal and sending audio signal out.

I will check next time i'm at the vehicle to see if there is a light output on that connector, as you say the otherside needs to connected to get the signal in the first place. Seems likely it isn't in which case I need to figure out how to. I already had a Combo retrofit done last year so hopefully don't need to go too far to make that happen!

Thanks.

UnicornM wrote

That's correct. The Helix is simply taking the audio signal and sending audio signal out.

I will check next time i'm at the vehicle to see if there is a light output on that connector, as you say the otherside needs to connected to get the signal in the first place. Seems likely it isn't in which case I need to figure out how to. I already had a Combo retrofit done last year so hopefully don't need to go too far to make that happen!

Thanks.

From CD Changer retrofit instructions, it appears there is a distribution block that needs to have optic cables swapped to put the trunk cable in the circuit. I would think you'd need to do something similar. See this:
DIY - OEM CD Changer Installation Instructions

netcsk wrote

From CD Changer retrofit instructions, it appears there is a distribution block that needs to have optic cables swapped to put the trunk cable in the circuit. I would think you'd need to do something similar. See this:
DIY - OEM CD Changer Installation Instructions

Good find! That looks simple enough

09 M3 CIC non CD changer. Anyone have an issue when you first get in the car, carplay connects and has a high pitched noise? Even if I press play the audio doesn't play?

Only way I can resolve this is by switching to another source like the radio and switching back. The problem happens again the next day or if I havent been connect to carplay for sometime.

CD also will show Track 01, Track 02, Track 03. I reached out to the tty33 who mentioned this track problem as well but he said his just fixed itself eventually

Things I have checked or tried Latest firmware, dip switches off, factory reset, and bimmercode per this thread.

Thank you in advanced!

jlnation wrote

09 M3 CIC non CD changer. Anyone have an issue when you first get in the car, carplay connects and has a high pitched noise? Even if I press play the audio doesn't play?

Only way I can resolve this is by switching to another source like the radio and switching back. The problem happens again the next day or if I havent been connect to carplay for sometime.

CD also will show Track 01, Track 02, Track 03. I reached out to the tty33 who mentioned this track problem as well but he said his just fixed itself eventually

Things I have checked or tried Latest firmware, dip switches off, factory reset, and bimmercode per this thread.

Thank you in advanced!

I remember having a similar high pitched noise when I first tried my Mr12Volt unit and it went away after I pressed the Mode button on the head unit.

Hey everyone,

I reached out to Mr12Volt about getting CCC controller to work with CIC unit, this is the response I got

Waiting on delivery for mine. I'll be switching from an Andream MMI B CICHL unit to this. My car has Harmon Kardon audio so I have been really waiting for a direct solution like Mr12Volt!

If you leave the source as CD1, will the MMI box automatically start up when you enter the car?

djan9el wrote

I remember having a similar high pitched noise when I first tried my Mr12Volt unit and it went away after I pressed the Mode button on the head unit.

Thanks! I tried this but it comes right back next time in back in the car. Do you have yours set to auto connect to carplay?

dandandan wrote

Waiting on delivery for mine. I'll be switching from an Andream MMI B CICHL unit to this. My car has Harmon Kardon audio so I have been really waiting for a direct solution like Mr12Volt!

If you leave the source as CD1, will the MMI box automatically start up when you enter the car?

Yes I leave mine in CD1 and it connects pretty instantly.

jlnation wrote

Thanks! I tried this but it comes right back next time in back in the car. Do you have yours set to auto connect to carplay?

Yes, mine automatically connects to CarPlay when I start the vehicle.

Does anybody know a way to disable the idrive voice button on the steering wheel? When I press the voice button to use Siri, both CarPlay and idrive tries to listen and clash with each other.

nibty wrote

Does anybody know a way to disable the idrive voice button on the steering wheel? When I press the voice button to use Siri, both CarPlay and idrive tries to listen and clash with each other.

Using Bimmercode:

Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find SVS option and change it to nicht active
CODE -> START CODING



What is the BMW SVS module?

SVS stands for the voice recognition system. SVS is integrated into the CCC (CIC) unit located in the dashboard. It processes language input from voice commands.
SVS's main function is to control the various vehicle functions using voice commands.
BMW SVS can be used to control the following systems:

Entertainment
Communication
Navigation
Air conditioning Settings

https://www.youcanic.com/wiki/bmw-svs-voice-recognition-language-processing-system

djan9el wrote

Using Bimmercode:

Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find SVS option and change it to nicht active
CODE -> START CODING

https://www.youcanic.com/guide/bmw-svs-voice-recognition-language-processing-system

That did the trick. Thank you!