slcook54 - I do a couple events a year with the SF group. I typically bring my e46 but occasionally run the e92 just for the convenience of not having to tow back and forth. Following this thread so that we can hopefully meet up at an event. You are blessed with great home courses (LS/Sonoma/TH). You should add Button Willow and Big Willow to the to do list as time permits! Great to see so many BMW owners out using their cars on the track rather than for groceries and driving around town!
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slcook54 - I do a couple events a year with the SF group. I typically bring my e46 but occasionally run the e92 just for the convenience of not having to tow back and forth. Following this thread so that we can hopefully meet up at an event. You are blessed with great home courses (LS/Sonoma/TH). You should add Button Willow and Big Willow to the to do list as time permits! Great to see so many BMW owners out using their cars on the track rather than for groceries and driving around town!
Bimmer Barney wroteper Core4 Technical pageWhat about putting a thin coat of anti seize between the hub face and rotor like many of us do so that rotors don't get stuck on? I regularly check my lugs and after every session on track. Just curious if the anti siege presents a concern to Tom at Core4
https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
IF there's excessive galling, a very small amount of standard grade anti-seize lubricant works well. Be sure no grit or dirt gets caught in the lubricant during wheel changes as this will affect lubricity and will need to be cleaned off. Clean and re-apply after approximately ~10 wheel changes or when you notice insufficient lug nut rotation while tightening.
Given that you should replace your hubs and bearings at this point, Core4 is the sensible choice. I just did this for piece of mind and also went for the 14mm conversion.
Back when I started tracking in 2015 I did something like 40 track days in one year's time span, and was constantly changing wheels and tires. The studs without the press in conversion would really only last 15-20 track days before they would inevitably snap the stud when you went to torque.
I started changing wheels because on like my 5th track day I wrecked one of the tires I was using just to drive to the track - and it happened to be the tires I was tracking on. This ruined the weekend and I resolved to never again let that happen. So street tire set/track tire set. Bring the track set in the back seat, swap at track.
Back when I started tracking in 2015 I did something like 40 track days in one year's time span, and was constantly changing wheels and tires. The studs without the press in conversion would really only last 15-20 track days before they would inevitably snap the stud when you went to torque.
I started changing wheels because on like my 5th track day I wrecked one of the tires I was using just to drive to the track - and it happened to be the tires I was tracking on. This ruined the weekend and I resolved to never again let that happen. So street tire set/track tire set. Bring the track set in the back seat, swap at track.
derbo wrote
Bimmer Barney wroteHey guys, just wanted to chime in quickly and clarify something.What about putting a thin coat of anti seize between the hub face and rotor like many of us do so that rotors don't get stuck on? I regularly check my lugs and after every session on track. Just curious if the anti siege presents a concern to Tom at Core4
When I refer to using anti-seize lubricant it is only when you notice aluminum from the wheel nut seat areas galling onto the lug nut cone seat. So, I mean applying ONLY in the wheel nut seat areas OR on the cone seats of the lug nuts. Not needed to apply to both. One or the other, just a tiny dab of it, and only when you notice galling.
For dedicated race cars and/or heavily tracked dual purpose cars, I highly recommend NO anti-seize on the mating surfaces of rotor to hub, spacer to rotor, wheel to spacer/rotor.
You want maximum friction in between these surfaces, because this frictional interface is what is essentially resisting all the externally applied loads being put into each corner of the car. This is why the clamping force generated from the preloaded wheel studs/bolts is so important. More clamping force = more friction = more load bearing capability = more safety margin.
Achieving max friction is with bone dry, clean surfaces with absolutely zero coatings or externally applied lubricants. Putting lubricant on these mating surfaces decreases the coefficient of friction between them and increases the chances of these the components "slipping" relative to one another. When slipping occurs, even the tiniest amounts of it, it is a recipe for premature bending fatigue failure of wheel studs/bolts.
Now if you have a street car and drive it in the winter or crappy weather often, sure, a little bit anti-seize to prevent things getting stuck won't hurt since you're not putting the same loads on the street as you are on the track with sticky rubber. Or you can clean just clean everything when you know you're going to the track and reapply afterwards.
Hope that all makes sense.
-Tom from Core4
gills wroteCore4 or bust! And since you didn't come here to plug your hubs I'll plug them for yah. I think everyone needs them 😂derbo wroteBimmer Barney wroteHey guys, just wanted to chime in quickly and clarify something.What about putting a thin coat of anti seize between the hub face and rotor like many of us do so that rotors don't get stuck on? I regularly check my lugs and after every session on track. Just curious if the anti siege presents a concern to Tom at Core4
When I refer to using anti-seize lubricant it is only when you notice aluminum from the wheel nut seat areas galling onto the lug nut cone seat. So, I mean applying ONLY in the wheel nut seat areas OR on the cone seats of the lug nuts. Not needed to apply to both. One or the other, just a tiny dab of it, and only when you notice galling.
For dedicated race cars and/or heavily tracked dual purpose cars, I highly recommend NO anti-seize on the mating surfaces of rotor to hub, spacer to rotor, wheel to spacer/rotor.
You want maximum friction in between these surfaces, because this frictional interface is what is essentially resisting all the externally applied loads being put into each corner of the car. This is why the clamping force generated from the preloaded wheel studs/bolts is so important. More clamping force = more friction = more load bearing capability = more safety margin.
Achieving max friction is with bone dry, clean surfaces with absolutely zero coatings or externally applied lubricants. Putting lubricant on these mating surfaces decreases the coefficient of friction between them and increases the chances of these the components "slipping" relative to one another. When slipping occurs, even the tiniest amounts of it, it is a recipe for premature bending fatigue failure of wheel studs/bolts.
Now if you have a street car and drive it in the winter or crappy weather often, sure, a little bit anti-seize to prevent things getting stuck won't hurt since you're not putting the same loads on the street as you are on the track with sticky rubber. Or you can clean just clean everything when you know you're going to the track and reapply afterwards.
Hope that all makes sense.
-Tom from Core4
10/12/21 - Track Day #3
Prior to the event the car went through a series of changes including:
Titan TS-7 wheels, 18x10 et25
3DM Ohlins Track Day Kit - 450/800 springs
Michelin PS4S 275/35/18 all around
Core4 F80 hubs and new wheel bearings
Pinnacle undertray
360 GTS replica front lip
OEM CF spoiler
BMW Motorcycle Power Steering vent kit
Karbonius CF mirror covers
Titan7's have been my top choice for track wheels for a long time. They look like they came from the factory, provide 20+ lbs in weight savings and are strong as hell. Titan7 and EAS were both backordered, but I was able to find a set through Auto Talent.
I spoke to Barry at 3DM and we decided to run the Ohlins Track Day kit with Swift springs (450/800) considering the car is still driven on the streets of San Francisco. My shop gave me their middle of the road alignment at -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I’ll keep it there for the time being and experiment with the tire wear. A fresh set of PS4’s was also added.
Given my previous post, I reached out to Tom
gills at Core4 to replace the hubs and wheel bearings. I went with the F80 hubs which are roughly 0.7lbs lighter per side and cost a slight premium. We went with the 14mm pressed-in MSI studs. Due to back-ups at MSI, Tom only had the longer 96mm studs in stock. I thought they might look odd given their length, but they look cool as hell. I’m happy to have this piece of the puzzle sorted. Thank you 
dogbone for the push. 
rhyary, Tom now recommends torquing the nuts to 130 ft/lbs for the 14mm studs.
I also had the shop install the BMW motorcycle power steering catch-can to allow the boiling fluid to vent to. Alex,
Move Over pointed out that I still need to drill a hole in the top of the lid to help release pressure, otherwise the hose is prone to blowing off.
The Day Itself
This was my first time being out of the Novice group, which allowed me to run 5 full sessions. What a difference this makes. It allowed me to progressively build up more confidence through the day.
I like breaking hobbies into smaller goals, my only goal for the day was to stay flat over T1 and really stand on the AP kit going into the braking zone for T2. By the second session, I was flat and it felt amazing! I was still braking too early going into 2, but was happy to hit my goal early in the day.
One other adjustment I made was in T6. On my first two days, I was braking before the turn and downshifting to 3rd gear. After watching
fsmtnbiker's video, I kept the car in 4th and tried to carry more momentum through the corner and get on the throttle earlier. I'm still leaving time on the table here, but it felt faster and smoother. I'm also not carrying enough speed through T9, I will focus more there next time.
I didn’t check my hot pressures until after my second session and realized I was at 42psi hot, despite letting out 5psi before the day started. I let out 6psi all around to end up at 36psi hot and the car felt significantly better. It is annoying that this triggers the TPMS, but whatever. I’ll likely start around 29/30 psi cold next time and see where that lands me.
It was also my first time out with the Ohlins, I elected to turn all the dials to full stiff and then back them out 5 clicks. This was a nice starting point.
Overall it was an amazing day. I will likely start timing myself the next time out to establish my baseline. For now the car is mostly done until I get an F80 M3 for weekend / baby hauling use. The only short term additions will be a Garmin Catalyst and the full Do88 kit. The next major overhaul will be getting weight out of the car. My plan will likely be a TCD half cage, fixed back seats with BK mounts, rear seat delete and Antigravity battery.
I also received my E88s this week after a 6 month wait. Thank you
slicer . I’ll use that for my street setup, but they can double as a track setup in a pinch.
Issues
The car is making a weird ‘whoooosing’ sound on each interval of the wheel spinning.
derbo was speculating that it could be the AP anti-knock back kit pushing against the pads, which seems to make sense. This was present after my last track day, so I can rule out the wheels and tires since those were all swapped out. I will have the shop investigate. I know the J hook rotors inherently have some sound to them, but I don’t think it’s that.
The exhaust is also sounding a bit farty. I think one of the exhaust donuts might also be on its way out. When the shop pulled the transmission a couple months ago, they reused the old donuts, which I suspect might be the culprit.
Other than that, it was a perfect day, the car performed phenomenally. Looking forward to the next Laguna day on 11/28
Prior to the event the car went through a series of changes including:
Titan TS-7 wheels, 18x10 et25
3DM Ohlins Track Day Kit - 450/800 springs
Michelin PS4S 275/35/18 all around
Core4 F80 hubs and new wheel bearings
Pinnacle undertray
360 GTS replica front lip
OEM CF spoiler
BMW Motorcycle Power Steering vent kit
Karbonius CF mirror covers
Titan7's have been my top choice for track wheels for a long time. They look like they came from the factory, provide 20+ lbs in weight savings and are strong as hell. Titan7 and EAS were both backordered, but I was able to find a set through Auto Talent.
I spoke to Barry at 3DM and we decided to run the Ohlins Track Day kit with Swift springs (450/800) considering the car is still driven on the streets of San Francisco. My shop gave me their middle of the road alignment at -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I’ll keep it there for the time being and experiment with the tire wear. A fresh set of PS4’s was also added.
Given my previous post, I reached out to Tom
gills at Core4 to replace the hubs and wheel bearings. I went with the F80 hubs which are roughly 0.7lbs lighter per side and cost a slight premium. We went with the 14mm pressed-in MSI studs. Due to back-ups at MSI, Tom only had the longer 96mm studs in stock. I thought they might look odd given their length, but they look cool as hell. I’m happy to have this piece of the puzzle sorted. Thank you dogbone for the push. rhyary, Tom now recommends torquing the nuts to 130 ft/lbs for the 14mm studs.I also had the shop install the BMW motorcycle power steering catch-can to allow the boiling fluid to vent to. Alex,
Move Over pointed out that I still need to drill a hole in the top of the lid to help release pressure, otherwise the hose is prone to blowing off.The Day Itself
This was my first time being out of the Novice group, which allowed me to run 5 full sessions. What a difference this makes. It allowed me to progressively build up more confidence through the day.
I like breaking hobbies into smaller goals, my only goal for the day was to stay flat over T1 and really stand on the AP kit going into the braking zone for T2. By the second session, I was flat and it felt amazing! I was still braking too early going into 2, but was happy to hit my goal early in the day.
One other adjustment I made was in T6. On my first two days, I was braking before the turn and downshifting to 3rd gear. After watching
fsmtnbiker's video, I kept the car in 4th and tried to carry more momentum through the corner and get on the throttle earlier. I'm still leaving time on the table here, but it felt faster and smoother. I'm also not carrying enough speed through T9, I will focus more there next time.I didn’t check my hot pressures until after my second session and realized I was at 42psi hot, despite letting out 5psi before the day started. I let out 6psi all around to end up at 36psi hot and the car felt significantly better. It is annoying that this triggers the TPMS, but whatever. I’ll likely start around 29/30 psi cold next time and see where that lands me.
It was also my first time out with the Ohlins, I elected to turn all the dials to full stiff and then back them out 5 clicks. This was a nice starting point.
Overall it was an amazing day. I will likely start timing myself the next time out to establish my baseline. For now the car is mostly done until I get an F80 M3 for weekend / baby hauling use. The only short term additions will be a Garmin Catalyst and the full Do88 kit. The next major overhaul will be getting weight out of the car. My plan will likely be a TCD half cage, fixed back seats with BK mounts, rear seat delete and Antigravity battery.
I also received my E88s this week after a 6 month wait. Thank you
slicer . I’ll use that for my street setup, but they can double as a track setup in a pinch.Issues
The car is making a weird ‘whoooosing’ sound on each interval of the wheel spinning.
derbo was speculating that it could be the AP anti-knock back kit pushing against the pads, which seems to make sense. This was present after my last track day, so I can rule out the wheels and tires since those were all swapped out. I will have the shop investigate. I know the J hook rotors inherently have some sound to them, but I don’t think it’s that.The exhaust is also sounding a bit farty. I think one of the exhaust donuts might also be on its way out. When the shop pulled the transmission a couple months ago, they reused the old donuts, which I suspect might be the culprit.
Other than that, it was a perfect day, the car performed phenomenally. Looking forward to the next Laguna day on 11/28
Can't wait for 11/28 
Looks great! Glad to see you make a journal.
Don't have too much fun without me!
Don't have too much fun without me!
Really beautiful/nicely set up car. Well done.
//steve\\ wroteWe are waiting for you come out to LagunaLooks great! Glad to see you make a journal.
Don't have too much fun without me!
slcook54 wroteLooking great! Nice update.Other than that, it was a perfect day, the car performed phenomenally. Looking forward to the next Laguna day on 11/28
Great update 
can't wait to see the beast in action!
can't wait to see the beast in action!
i know you're not timing yet, but how much faster did the car feel? was that big jump in performance overwhelming at all?
thats one of the things i'm most excited about experiencing when i return to the track- the huge leap in performance.
thats one of the things i'm most excited about experiencing when i return to the track- the huge leap in performance.
slcook54 wroteOur setups are incredibly similar, congrats on getting so much sorted at once!!I didn’t check my hot pressures until after my second session and realized I was at 42psi hot, despite letting out 5psi before the day started. I let out 6psi all around to end up at 36psi hot and the car felt significantly better. It is annoying that this triggers the TPMS, but whatever. I’ll likely start around 29/30 psi cold next time and see where that lands me.
Wanted to also mention that many of us have solved the TPMS issue by coding TPMS off, unplugging/pulling the TPMS module, and then you can also code on something called FTM or "Flat Tire Monitor" that will still detect pressure loss using the wheel speed sensors (one tire slipping more than others), since you are lowering the pressure on all the tires together FTM doesn't go off for me at the track.
derbo has a good DIY on this LINK
roastbeef wroteHonestly it's very hard to discern, so much changed so fast and I'm new to this hobby, so I'm still soaking it all in. Driver mod is the main area that I'm focused on but I decided to sort out a couple big areas up front to make it a 'reliable' setup. I'm not using all the AP kit has to offer or fully exploiting the Ohlins. It's also hard to compare anything without data or times, but I'm happy to have created my arrive and drive setup, the rest is just icing on the cake now.i know you're not timing yet, but how much faster did the car feel? was that big jump in performance overwhelming at all?
thats one of the things i'm most excited about experiencing when i return to the track- the huge leap in performance.
///Mobbin wroteAwesome! Didn't know that, I'll bug Derek.Our setups are incredibly similar, congrats on getting so much sorted at once!!
Wanted to also mention that many of us have solved the TPMS issue by coding TPMS off, unplugging/pulling the TPMS module, and then you can also code on something called FTM or "Flat Tire Monitor" that will still detect pressure loss using the wheel speed sensors (one tire slipping more than others), since you are lowering the pressure on all the tires together FTM doesn't go off for me at the track.
///Mobbin wroteand I'm local tooOur setups are incredibly similar, congrats on getting so much sorted at once!!
Wanted to also mention that many of us have solved the TPMS issue by coding TPMS off, unplugging/pulling the TPMS module, and then you can also code on something called FTM or "Flat Tire Monitor" that will still detect pressure loss using the wheel speed sensors (one tire slipping more than others), since you are lowering the pressure on all the tires together FTM doesn't go off for me at the track.
need some side profile pics please
MisterClutch888 wroteA couple quick onesneed some side profile pics please
thats a damn pretty car right there.
It could give more information on how to install the power steering seal on the BMW motorcycle to allow the boiling liquid to vent. Or is there any DIY in the forum about this?
Rochen_00 wroteThere isn't much to DIY. You just run a line to a small BMW motorcycle catch can. My shop charged me $48 with parts.It could give more information on how to install the power steering seal on the BMW motorcycle to allow the boiling liquid to vent. Or is there any DIY in the forum about this?
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26986118#post26986118
