Track forum general chit chat.

omgzirra_exe wrote

SOLID SUB FRAME / DIFF will be the best bang for the bucket from this list.

Solid subframe should be a mandatory mod.

Exclusivs wrote

If you got full interior barely noticeable. Once you start stripping, things go up in volume.

Would solid be that bad then? Car is full interior

Yes, in certain circumstances you can hear the diff with solid subframe bushings and Powerflex purple diff bushings.
Windows up, music off.
My brain has finally filtered the whine out after 7 months.

The improvement in the car's behavior on track is absolutely noticeably improved though.
Well worth the expense and effort.

I added adjustable sway bars while I had the subframe out of the car, so I was into it for around $1,200 for parts.

Subframe bushings, $275
Powerflex purple diff bushings, $161
Hotchkis sway bars, $490
Braided brake lines, $161
Plus various TTY bolts and brake fluid



Solid Rear Subframe Bushings/Power Flex Purple Diff Bushing

Davisca455 wrote

Yes, in certain circumstances you can hear the diff with solid subframe bushings and Powerflex purple diff bushings.
Windows up, music off.
My brain has finally filtered the whine out after 7 months.

After a few months I kinda like the whine now. It adds to the other mechanical noises the E92 M3 makes and kinda makes the car feel alive.

Hi everyone, I run an F80 but cross posting here as there's often more posters.
I've created this list of six SPL parts and was wondering if there is a significant advantage in doing these six versus just getting front thrust monoballs and rear camber bearings:

Front Tie Rod Ends
Front Lower Control Arms(Wishbones)
Front Upper Control Arms(Thrust Arms?)
Rear Adjustable Upper Arms
Rear Adjustable Trailing Arms
Rear Adjustable Toe Arms

I'm assuming the SPL UCAs already come with the monoballs/spherical bearings and whichever SPL rear arms also come with spherical bearings. So it's either $500 for front and rear bearings from Bimmerworld or Turner, or $2300 for the SPL suite.

I plan to keep the car for a while longer and to want to maximize suspension performance with these options plus MCS suspension. Will I see a large benefit going full SPL versus just the front and rear bearings?

MaX PL wrote

Hi everyone, I run an F80 but cross posting here as there's often more posters.
I've created this list of six SPL parts and was wondering if there is a significant advantage in doing these six versus just getting front thrust monoballs and rear camber bearings:

Front Tie Rod Ends
Front Lower Control Arms(Wishbones)
Front Upper Control Arms(Thrust Arms?)
Rear Adjustable Upper Arms
Rear Adjustable Trailing Arms
Rear Adjustable Toe Arms

I'm assuming the SPL UCAs already come with the monoballs/spherical bearings and whichever SPL rear arms also come with spherical bearings. So it's either $500 for front and rear bearings from Bimmerworld or Turner, or $2300 for the SPL suite.

I plan to keep the car for a while longer and to want to maximize suspension performance with these options plus MCS suspension. Will I see a large benefit going full SPL versus just the front and rear bearings?

Is the car used on track? How sticky are the tires you're running? On the street you won't notice a performance increase in the full SPL catalog.

On the track with sticky tires and some good pace, you could certainly see a benefit in tire wear as the dynamic toe and camber change is greatly reduced, as well as having roll center and bump steer corrected in the front (assuming you're running a lower than oem ride height). If you add in some Millway eccentric bushings in the rear knuckle you can correct for roll center and bumpsteer in the rear as well.

I have everything you mentioned as well as the millway I mentioned in my e92. The handling dynamics are incredible with hotchkis bars, BFG R1 and moton clubsport 2WR. I know it exists, but I simply can't imagine what better feels like.

Getting rid of some extra camera stuff - 3x GoPro 7's with accessories & a case. Figure it's more track oriented so posting it here too:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=28296502#post28296502

Here's another one for you all, I have a lot this week lol.

Fcp lifetime rotors vs pfc dd/girodisc. I get the lifetime is lifetime, but those rotors have been eating pads from heat. So I could run brake ducts, but it's the enhanced cooling on 2 piece replacements noticeable? If that plus ducts is true I'd imagine those rotors would last a long time?

aututto wrote

Here's another one for you all, I have a lot this week lol.

Fcp lifetime rotors vs pfc dd/girodisc. I get the lifetime is lifetime, but those rotors have been eating pads from heat. So I could run brake ducts, but it's the enhanced cooling on 2 piece replacements noticeable? If that plus ducts is true I'd imagine those rotors would last a long time?

I'd go with the stock rotors over spending that much on 2 piece rotors for the front original caliper. As long as you don't overheat the stock cooling, the front rotors can last a long time. The cost savings of the 2 piece rotors aren't great as it can be expensive to replace the rotor rings and hardware.

Ximian wrote

aututto wrote

Here's another one for you all, I have a lot this week lol.

Fcp lifetime rotors vs pfc dd/girodisc. I get the lifetime is lifetime, but those rotors have been eating pads from heat. So I could run brake ducts, but it's the enhanced cooling on 2 piece replacements noticeable? If that plus ducts is true I'd imagine those rotors would last a long time?

I'd go with the stock rotors over spending that much on 2 piece rotors for the front original caliper. As long as you don't overheat the stock cooling, the front rotors can last a long time. The cost savings of the 2 piece rotors aren't great as it can be expensive to replace the rotor rings and hardware.

That was my original thinking as well. OE rotor life is fine for me but the heat is killing pads. So I figured ducting would help. But I saw hinz has the pfc dd rotors and there was some claims that the cooling from them dramatically helped. Not sure if it would be as good as ducts on oe though

Ximian wrote

aututto wrote

Here's another one for you all, I have a lot this week lol.

Fcp lifetime rotors vs pfc dd/girodisc. I get the lifetime is lifetime, but those rotors have been eating pads from heat. So I could run brake ducts, but it's the enhanced cooling on 2 piece replacements noticeable? If that plus ducts is true I'd imagine those rotors would last a long time?

I'd go with the stock rotors over spending that much on 2 piece rotors for the front original caliper. As long as you don't overheat the stock cooling, the front rotors can last a long time. The cost savings of the 2 piece rotors aren't great as it can be expensive to replace the rotor rings and hardware.

That was my original thinking as well. OE rotor life is fine for me but the heat is killing pads. So I figured ducting would help. But I saw hinz has the pfc dd rotors and there was some claims that the cooling from them dramatically helped. Not sure if it would be as good as ducts on oe though

does anyone run 18x10 for dual duty? I am running 18x9.5/10.5 now and thinking picking up a square set for good. but I got no space for storing additional set

I'll probably do ps4s to start.

romero1990 wrote

does anyone run 18x10 for dual duty? I am running 18x9.5/10.5 now and thinking picking up a square set for good. but I got no space for storing additional set

I'll probably do ps4s to start.

That's my exact track setup. I would have no issue dailying it.

aututto wrote

Here's another one for you all, I have a lot this week lol.

Fcp lifetime rotors vs pfc dd/girodisc. I get the lifetime is lifetime, but those rotors have been eating pads from heat. So I could run brake ducts, but it's the enhanced cooling on 2 piece replacements noticeable? If that plus ducts is true I'd imagine those rotors would last a long time?

i buy $50 rotors

romero1990 wrote

does anyone run 18x10 for dual duty? I am running 18x9.5/10.5 now and thinking picking up a square set for good. but I got no space for storing additional set

I'll probably do ps4s to start.

I'm running 19" for daily.

VMR V710 Front Wheel Size:19x10 ET25 Rear Wheel Size:19x10 ET25

So far so good!

When I track, I switch to TE37 18x9.5/10.5

Richneerd wrote

romero1990 wrote

does anyone run 18x10 for dual duty? I am running 18x9.5/10.5 now and thinking picking up a square set for good. but I got no space for storing additional set

I'll probably do ps4s to start.

I'm running 19" for daily.

VMR V710 Front Wheel Size:19x10 ET25 Rear Wheel Size:19x10 ET25

So far so good!

When I track, I switch to TE37 18x9.5/10.5

that's quite interesting. I thought most ppl go for square set for rotation and better front grip. wondering why you go with staggered

romero1990 wrote

that's quite interesting. I thought most ppl go for square set for rotation and better front grip. wondering why you go with staggered

Yup! but it's all good, I'm happy with my setup.

Having not bought normal "street" brake pads in many years, can anyone provide some suggestions on a reasonable pad? This is for the new DD and I'm thinking ceramic is probably the best bet since it creates the lighter colored dust that you don't see. Whatever the OEM pads are.....they create an absurd amount of ugly orange dust.

I see Hawk and Centric both have a cheap ceramic street pad but wasn't sure who else is worth looking at.

woot woot, did a 1:43.88 at laguna seca.

Is it me or is it much easier to drive fast in the morning than the afternoon? Felt like I had way more grip in the morning. Lap times reflected that too.

StogyBear wrote

woot woot, did a 1:43.88 at laguna seca.

Is it me or is it much easier to drive fast in the morning than the afternoon? Felt like I had way more grip in the morning. Lap times reflected that too.

Pavement and tires are cooler. Morning sessions should be your fastest, hypothetically.

dparm wrote

Having not bought normal "street" brake pads in many years, can anyone provide some suggestions on a reasonable pad? This is for the new DD and I'm thinking ceramic is probably the best bet since it creates the lighter colored dust that you don't see. Whatever the OEM pads are.....they create an absurd amount of ugly orange dust.

I see Hawk and Centric both have a cheap ceramic street pad but wasn't sure who else is worth looking at.

Don't quote me, but I thought alot of people enjoyed akebono euro ceramics or whatever. Mainly because light dust color...but I have no idea how they actually are to drive

Got a labor estimate on subframe bushings.....I might save that mod for next year, dang lol