Oil filter housing removal DIY?

gottsman wrote

Were you successful with the filter housing gasket change? I seem to have more oil leaking now than when I first started....

It appears to be coming from the oil cooler tubes. I did change the o-rings with the part number above.. Oil seems to be coming out and hitting the power steering belt and going everywhere. Guess I will clean it up again and hopefully I can find the problem.

hey did you ever find the problem? im doing this job tomorrow

thank you for this writeup

Thanks for the great write up.
I had the oil filter housing leak, but did not have to do plugs etc.
I followed the guide and was able was able to remove the oil filter housing without taking the plenum box off.
Cheers
Rob

blk33 wrote

Thanks for the great write up.
I had the oil filter housing leak, but did not have to do plugs etc.
I followed the guide and was able was able to remove the oil filter housing without taking the plenum box off.
Cheers
Rob

I’m about to do this job soon. How many parts did you have to take off before you could ‘comfortably’ take the bolts off the OFH and also the OFH itself?

Thanks.

alpine2530 wrote

I’m about to do this job soon. How many parts did you have to take off before you could ‘comfortably’ take the bolts off the OFH and also the OFH itself?

Thanks.

I would suggest following the guide and miss the directions removing the plenum. Air filter comes off from memory, fan out, belts out and a few bolts to get access. Don't forget to make one of those short TORX spanners.
Good luck.

About to tackle this job. Have 116k on the car.

Probably will do water pump and thermostat. Kit on FCP for $317.30
Oil filter housing gasket: $18.19
Oil cooler O-rings: $6.78

Do we have the part numbers on FCP for both belts? Do I need to do any other pulleys or just the belts should be fine?

Thanks!

Rino924 wrote

About to tackle this job. Have 116k on the car.

Probably will do water pump and thermostat. Kit on FCP for $317.30
Oil filter housing gasket: $18.19
Oil cooler O-rings: $6.78

Do we have the part numbers on FCP for both belts? Do I need to do any other pulleys or just the belts should be fine?

Thanks!

Consider doing idler pulleys and tensioners when you've already got belts off. Depending on how deep into the while youre in there rabbit hole.

So a complete kit like this? Just trying to decide if that truly needs replaced or if I should since I am in there. That would add significant cost to the job. So just want to be 100%.

I've never done a belt job on any vehicle so doing as much research now that I can.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-391554-e9x-m3-belt-and-tensioner-service-kit/?pdk=BQQ

blk33 wrote

I would suggest following the guide and miss the directions removing the plenum. Air filter comes off from memory, fan out, belts out and a few bolts to get access. Don't forget to make one of those short TORX spanners.
Good luck.

Okay so no plenum removal, that should make it quicker. Do I need to drain the oil and coolant as well? or does only a bit come out?

From my understanding, no oil needs to come out. You lose a very small amount changing out the filter, but not enough to cause concern.

My plan is to do thermostat and water pump so may take a turkey baster and suck some out of that before disconnecting radiator hoses. I suppose you'll lose a little bit, but not a ton.

Rino924 wrote

From my understanding, no oil needs to come out. You lose a very small amount changing out the filter, but not enough to cause concern.

My plan is to do thermostat and water pump so may take a turkey baster and suck some out of that before disconnecting radiator hoses. I suppose you'll lose a little bit, but not a ton.

Oh okay then it should be pretty straight forward. Does the waterpump/tstat have to come out? Mine's fairly new so I was just going to change the o-ring if I had to.

Drifter2090 wrote

Oh okay then it should be pretty straight forward. Does the waterpump/tstat have to come out? Mine's fairly new so I was just going to change the o-ring if I had to.

Water pump out, I did the O ring, Thermostat can stay, so coolant required.

blk33 wrote

Water pump out, I did the O ring, Thermostat can stay, so coolant required.

Oh okay, so coolant out but oil I'll leave then. Thanks

Thanks for getting back. Planning to tackle everything all at once.

Also, thank so much to OP for this diy. Very helpful indeed.

Rino924 wrote

So a complete kit like this? Just trying to decide if that truly needs replaced or if I should since I am in there. That would add significant cost to the job. So just want to be 100%.

I've never done a belt job on any vehicle so doing as much research now that I can.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-391554-e9x-m3-belt-and-tensioner-service-kit/?pdk=BQQ

Nickes comment reg Turners belt guide can be worth checking out mate: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1333638&page=36

Going to take some better pics but got a scope camera and only had a few mins to try out. Need to get a few more angles and spend more time but I think this looks like the oil filter housing gasket.

Got it done today, took the plenum off since I was doing injectors as well.

*also forgot to drain the coolant and made a mess lol

-plenum, intake out
-expansion tank loosened
-expansion tank overflow hose removed at hose end (the plastic nipple on the radiator hose can break during fan removal, easy to just remove the overflow hose)
-fan out
-top left coolant hose disconnected from the thermostat
-lower coolant hose going to metal pipe above the alternator disconnected on metal pipe end
-both hoses tucked away
-oil cooler lines loosened at the bracket
-oil filter removed and oil sucked out
-oil cooler lines removed and moved out of the way
-water pump pulley then pump removed
-belts removed
-ac belt tensioner removed
-power steering pulley removed (mine was seized on I had to break it off)
-remove 3 bolts holding the power steering pump
-remove 10mm nut and bolt holding the power steering hoses in place
-move power steering pump out of the way
-cut t30 bit in half and use a wrench to remove the oil filter housing bolt behind the crank pulley
-remove 8 remaining bolts
-change the gasket and clean mating surfaces well
-do it in reverse for reassembly, make sure you do new oil cooler o-rings and water pump o-ring

Thanks for the help!

Bumping this back up as I have a few questions..

1. Best way to drain coolant is through the radiator on the bottom? Would that clear the water-pump from most of the coolant?
2. Are you guys putting back the old oil filter or installing a new one?
3. What are the torque specs for OFH bolts? Are new bolts needed?
4. FCP euro kit has a new sensor, is it necessary?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-kit-11427838276kt

ARES 70920 - Fluid Change Syringe - Smooth Suction Action for Easy Fluid Change - Ideal for Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid Removal and More - 200cc Max Capacity https://a.co/d/iigKRCc

Maybe the ol Austin Powers pump at the expansion tank to minimize coolant loss? Get multiples for clearing out the filter housing too.

I would NEVER reuse an oil filter. Condom? Maybe.

Thanks everyone for this great write-up on the oil filter housing leak. I'm curious how long it took for you guys to replace it? The book time for a shop to do it is 6 hrs. I might be able to take this on with a more experience friend helping as a shop will charge about $1000 in labor to replace a $20 gasket.

Thanks!

Jim

Thanks for this fantastic DIY! Did this job over the weekend and it wasn’t bad at all.

Making the tool is a must. I didn’t drain all the coolant, just sucked out what I could from the reservoir with a cheap $10 pump. I used an XL dog training pad to soak up about a quart which spilled from the water pump. I also thought the OFH could be removed without water pump coming out. It can IF the harmonic balancer comes out. WP removal definitely easier route.

One tip I didn’t see mentioned (if it was, sorry!) grab a cardboard box and place it behind the radiator to prevent tools, hands, elbows from hitting it and bending the fins.

I was rounding the home stretch and bam, dropped water pump bolt which landed on the belly pan. After removing the belly pan, my OCD kicked in, and I’m into a 4 hour steam cleaning detail job. Oil was caked everywhere below! Guess I would have completed much sooner had I not been distracted. At least the engine is clean now.

Thanks for the absolutely awesome DIY! Also all of you who chipped in with valuable tips.

This may be a stupid question, but which screws are holding the power steering pump?
Don't want to make an absolute mess. Also, I was planning on not having to remove the whole waterpump, just the wheel but some say it's possible and some not.

EDIT; After closer inspection seems to be the hex-screws just holding it and the torx for the bracket so if I don't disconnect the line I won't have PS-fluid pissing out anyway.