Over 100k suspension refresh/lowering on E93

Hey guys,

Any recommendations for suspension refresh and lowering for E93 specifically? I have searched the forum and Google and have not found much, a lot of similar questions, but not much info. The car has over 100k and I would like to address the suspension as my first round of mods. (Already did RBs).

For a good performing street car, what should I upgrade/replace? Does it make sense to do solid sub-frame bushings on a street car that is a convertible? How about monoball upgraded arms?

I thought about doing all new OE replacement control arms from FCP by TRW front and rear. Maybe beefed up trailing arms? Will I feel a difference on the street? I would like to retain EDC.

I'm looking for some advice from someone who understands the dynamics of an E93, not just simply "get bilstein b16 damptronic." I feel like if I get B16 kit and leave everything else stock at this mileage, it will be a poor combination on the street for daily.

Thank you

If you're looking to fill out the gap, I'd start with a bigger tire. Once you drop the top you'll notice a bit of drop with the roof in the trunk.

You can do solid bushings but I don't feel the E93 needs it, but it's up to you, just be prepared for increased drivetrain noise.

Some guys are running modified edc style coil overs (I think the bilstien or KW) and adjusting to what they prefer, but I'm simply running stock and find the car handles fine given it's a bit heavier.

Like you said, it's really streetable in the E93 vs track; you can run it around a track but man she's heavy in the corners and you feel a shit ton of roll.

-Duke

Solid rear subframe bushes have no NVH. Rear spherical conversion and front monoballs add slight bit of firmness, no noise or harshness. All 3 are streetable and reliable. I still daily drive my car with all 3 mods.

For street use, and occasional track, Ohlins R/T is the best in terms of comfort, performance, price and longevity.

DukeofAlexandria wrote

You can do solid bushings but I don't feel the E93 needs it, but it's up to you, just be prepared for increased drivetrain noise.
-Duke

Solid subframe bushings do not add any drive train noise and will transform the ride and handling. More so for the E93 which can use all the chassis stiffness it can get.

Redd wrote

DukeofAlexandria wrote

You can do solid bushings but I don't feel the E93 needs it, but it's up to you, just be prepared for increased drivetrain noise.
-Duke

Solid subframe bushings do not add any drive train noise and will transform the ride and handling. More so for the E93 which can use all the chassis stiffness it can get.

Respectfully disagree. I've been in a car before and after install of those and you could deff hear a difference (albeit slight) NVH.

-Duke

Bilstein B16 Damptronic.

DukeofAlexandria wrote

If you're looking to fill out the gap, I'd start with a bigger tire. Once you drop the top you'll notice a bit of drop with the roof in the trunk.

You can do solid bushings but I don't feel the E93 needs it, but it's up to you, just be prepared for increased drivetrain noise.

Some guys are running modified edc style coil overs (I think the bilstien or KW) and adjusting to what they prefer, but I'm simply running stock and find the car handles fine given it's a bit heavier.

Like you said, it's really streetable in the E93 vs track; you can run it around a track but man she's heavy in the corners and you feel a shit ton of roll.

-Duke

Thanks Duke, I'm definitely looking to get bigger tires, the OEM tires have a stretch on 359s and the lip of the wheel is exposed. I'm thinking about going 255/35 and 275/35.

I saw the solid subframe bushings DIY and wow it is extensive and probably pricey to do it a shop, not sure if it's worth the investment. We don't even have twisty roads here lol.

Redd wrote

Solid rear subframe bushes have no NVH. Rear spherical conversion and front monoballs add slight bit of firmness, no noise or harshness. All 3 are streetable and reliable. I still daily drive my car with all 3 mods.

For street use, and occasional track, Ohlins R/T is the best in terms of comfort, performance, price and longevity.

I thought the M3 already has spherical bushings? Can you recommend which kit, which bushings/arms?

Do they make Ohlins compatible with EDC?

jchrystal wrote

Bilstein B16 Damptronic.

At least you read the thread! But B16 on otherwise old suspension? Wouldn't it make weaker points even weaker?

That size of tire should be fine. I'm running 295/35/19 outback and 265/35/19 up front. The rim has a bit of an offset so it's basically nearly perfect flush so just be sure to take into account any offsets so it can be tucked under the wheel well.

You can do bushings yourself, just takes time and best on a lift with a trans jack. And regardless of what Redd said (again no offense), you will have a very slight NVH increase. Again, it's ever so slight but some guys are sticklers for sound so full disclosure.

-Duke

DukeofAlexandria wrote

Respectfully disagree. I've been in a car before and after install of those and you could deff hear a difference (albeit slight) NVH.

-Duke

Please tell me how solid subframe bushings can add more noise into the cabin? Especially with stock diff bushings which are isolating the vibrations/noises from the diff.

x3sm wrote

I thought the M3 already has spherical bushings? Can you recommend which kit, which bushings/arms?

Details in my post here:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781245

There's still a lot of rubber in the rear suspension, especially the big camber arm rubber bushings in the rear subframe. There is additional firmness and slight harshness from a spherical conversion, but no noise and no vibrations.

I think it's important to differentiate the N, V, and H. Anytime you remove rubber it will add some firmness. Firmness itself may not translate to much harshness in the ride. Noise and vibration is definitely not acceptable for me under any situation, especially for a daily driven car.

So, to me, rear subframe bushings add some firmness but no noise, vibration or harshness. Maybe others are more sensitive than me. I'm also running Ohlins which does a great job at soaking up a lot of harshness.

Rear sphericals will add firmness and a bit of ride harshness, but no noise or vibration.

Redd wrote

Details in my post here:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781245

There's still a lot of rubber in the rear suspension, especially the big camber arm rubber bushings in the rear subframe. There is additional firmness and slight harshness from a spherical conversion, but no noise and no vibrations.

I think it's important to differentiate the N, V, and H. Anytime you remove rubber it will add some firmness. Firmness itself may not translate to much harshness in the ride. Noise and vibration is definitely not acceptable for me under any situation, especially for a daily driven car.

So, to me, rear subframe bushings add some firmness but no noise, vibration or harshness. Maybe others are more sensitive than me. I'm also running Ohlins which does a great job at soaking up a lot of harshness.

Rear sphericals will add firmness and a bit of ride harshness, but no noise or vibration.

Took the time to read through all that info and from the 1er forum. Not sure if I need to do all that honestly. I think I will just replace with OEM quality arms and call it a day. If I was lowered, I would consider the doing SPL adjustable toe arms. Would I have any benefit of doing reinforced trailing arms and new bushings?

x3sm wrote

Took the time to read through all that info and from the 1er forum. Not sure if I need to do all that honestly. I think I will just replace with OEM quality arms and call it a day. If I was lowered, I would consider the doing SPL adjustable toe arms. Would I have any benefit of doing reinforced trailing arms and new bushings?

If you want to retain the comfort then just use stock arms. In fact, if your arms aren't making any noises, there is no need to replace them.