Rear Spherical Bearings Conversion on Stock Arms

After struggling with this for a few days, I'm throwing in the towel. If anyone wants a set of the washers for cheap, PM me.

Tut4u2 wrote

After struggling with this for a few days, I'm throwing in the towel. If anyone wants a set of the washers for cheap, PM me.

What are you struggling with?

cchen9_ wrote

What are you struggling with?

Can't get the bearings to press square into the arms.

Tut4u2 wrote

Can't get the bearings to press square into the arms.

Weird. Are you using the BAV tool? The Meyle bearings I used have a chamfer to them. I have a press but honestly feel like it would've been harder to do on a press. The press cups and receiving cups on the tool really keep everything square.

My mech did it on a press and had no issues.

I have tried both a press and a hand tool. I'm sure it's user error at this point.

Try some bearing retaining compound and see if it helps it slide in smoother.

Tut4u2 wrote

Can't get the bearings to press square into the arms.

I had a LOT of problems with this myself. I actually ruined 3-4 bushings in the process. What finally helped in my scenario was spending a little extra time cleaning the control arm bore (even hit it with some sandpaper and probably opened it up a few thousandths). Then bushings in the freezer. Once I did this I was able to get through all of mine without too much trouble.

And for this exact reason my car has 2 Meyle bushings and 2 Lemforder. Lemforder was maybe just a little nicer but no massive difference that would steer me to paying the premium for them. I have 4-5 more Meyle that I intend to use for the trailing arms.

These washers seem very similar, anyone think they will work?

Steele:
https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/3.2-Mounting-positioning-levelling-with-screws-clamping-and-supporting-elements/Washers/DIN-6319-Steel-Spherical-Washers?artikelnr=6319-17-C&gclid=CjwKCAjwtcCVBhA0EiwAT1fY7-MoMBcZQvuJPo09CwC8_1_895bLkRCLx4CSALLTgGREBQoDFHXZ1hoCkwAQAvD_BwE#d1%3Dc(13)%3BForm%3Du(ff63b49b-1990-459e-a497-5788062b92b6)

303 SS:
https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/3.2-Mounting-positioning-levelling-with-screws-clamping-and-supporting-elements/Washers/DIN-6319-Stainless-Steel-Spherical-Washers-Seat-and-Dished-Type#d1%3Dc(13)%3BForm%3Du(ff63b49b-1990-459e-a497-5788062b92b6)%3BWerkstoff%3Du(4ffaa763-f739-4917-9edb-5c7ca96d4057)

13mm ID instead of 12.2mm
24mm OD instead of 25mm
4.6mm thickness instead of 4.5mm

They should work. 12-12.2mm ID would be better to prevent movement.

//steve\\ wrote

I had a LOT of problems with this myself. I actually ruined 3-4 bushings in the process. What finally helped in my scenario was spending a little extra time cleaning the control arm bore (even hit it with some sandpaper and probably opened it up a few thousandths). Then bushings in the freezer. Once I did this I was able to get through all of mine without too much trouble.

And for this exact reason my car has 2 Meyle bushings and 2 Lemforder. Lemforder was maybe just a little nicer but no massive difference that would steer me to paying the premium for them. I have 4-5 more Meyle that I intend to use for the trailing arms.

I eventually got two of them pressed in, but gouged the bores of the other 2 arms in the process. I'm sure you can still run them, but I elected to get new TRW arms and call it a day. Next go around in 15 years I will get the SPL/AKG/Turner arms if they are still around.

tdott wrote

These washers seem very similar, anyone think they will work?

I have the ones I bought from cchen9_ along with 2 arms that already have the bearings pressed in, plus 2 arms that have damaged bores, plus 2 bearings ready to be pressed.

PM me and I will give you a deal on everything if you're interested.

Tut4u2 wrote

I eventually got two of them pressed in, but gouged the bores of the other 2 arms in the process. I'm sure you can still run them, but I elected to get new TRW arms and call it a day. Next go around in 15 years I will get the SPL/AKG/Turner arms if they are still around.

I gouged one of mine pretty good but ultimately was able to pull the bushing out, sand it down a bit more and get another bushing pressed back in all while feeling like it was still a very tight fit. I will say I thought based on what I had read so far that the process would be incredibly simple. In theory it should be but I bet I wasted 2 bushings and 3-4 hours of my time just trying to get that first one done correctly.

**PSA**: I had one of my converted rear arms fail while on track at VIR last weekend. The passenger side control arm bolt sheared and snapped away from the spindle side just after climbing the up hill esses into turn 10 (gulp). Heard something "pop" and the car shimmy. Limped back to paddock and found the arm resting on the axle which annoyingly tore the cv boot too. Very lucky it was just that

I used the McGill off the shelf custom washers and torqued everything properly to spec and also double checked for proper torque prior to heading up to VA for the weekend.

I use Rcomp tires and have stiffer coilover suspension so it must put a lot of load on the joints ultimately contributing to failure. Possibly due to these particular washers not creating a uniform mating interface for the bearing and the spindle cup.

This is the second time I've witnessed this happening at VIR with this conversion using these particular washers. Not my car the first time but it was the same arm that failed at the same track last fall when I was there.

I've since switched back to stock until further investigation into what exactly caused it.

Sorry to hear that. Did you offset the bearing when you installed it into the arm? If you installed it centered I wonder if that may have created additional loads on the bolt?

Brand new bolts?

derbo wrote

Brand new bolts?

Bushings were pressed in to proper spec by a very reputable race shop local to me and yes brand new bolts were used on all arms when I installed them

All torque values were checked prior to leaving for the event knowing it had happened to a friend with same setup in the fall, that at the time we had chalked up to incorrectly torqued bolts. Now we're not so sure that was the issue.

Stock arms are back in and I'll be removing the axle this weekend to replace the torn CV boot.
Pretty minimal collateral damage all things considered

leftfootbr8king wrote

I am. Millway's camber arm bushings on the subframe side, the eccentric bushings on the hub side for the camber arm, as well as their solid subframe bushings to go along with Sidem spherical bearings in the trailing arms.

Also the full SPL package front and rear. Essentially all chassis/suspension bushings are solid aside from black poly RSM's.

Group N engine mounts, stock tranny and diff mounts (though these will likely change when I change my shifter and diff)

Did you end up installing the Millway eccentric bushings? I notice they list 3 but only 1 in stock

laksman91 wrote

leftfootbr8king wrote

I am. Millway's camber arm bushings on the subframe side, the eccentric bushings on the hub side for the camber arm, as well as their solid subframe bushings to go along with Sidem spherical bearings in the trailing arms.

Also the full SPL package front and rear. Essentially all chassis/suspension bushings are solid aside from black poly RSM's.

Group N engine mounts, stock tranny and diff mounts (though these will likely change when I change my shifter and diff)

Did you end up installing the Millway eccentric bushings? I notice they list 3 but only 1 in stock

Yes they're installed.

When they're out of stock they are usually back in stock within a few weeks. Reach out to them via email for eta of any part.

leftfootbr8king wrote

laksman91 wrote

leftfootbr8king wrote

I am. Millway's camber arm bushings on the subframe side, the eccentric bushings on the hub side for the camber arm, as well as their solid subframe bushings to go along with Sidem spherical bearings in the trailing arms.

Also the full SPL package front and rear. Essentially all chassis/suspension bushings are solid aside from black poly RSM's.

Group N engine mounts, stock tranny and diff mounts (though these will likely change when I change my shifter and diff)

Did you end up installing the Millway eccentric bushings? I notice they list 3 but only 1 in stock

Yes they're installed.

When they're out of stock they are usually back in stock within a few weeks. Reach out to them via email for eta of any part.

Clear inbox

Exclusivs wrote

leftfootbr8king wrote

laksman91 wrote

leftfootbr8king wrote

I am. Millway's camber arm bushings on the subframe side, the eccentric bushings on the hub side for the camber arm, as well as their solid subframe bushings to go along with Sidem spherical bearings in the trailing arms.

Also the full SPL package front and rear. Essentially all chassis/suspension bushings are solid aside from black poly RSM's.

Group N engine mounts, stock tranny and diff mounts (though these will likely change when I change my shifter and diff)

Did you end up installing the Millway eccentric bushings? I notice they list 3 but only 1 in stock

Yes they're installed.

When they're out of stock they are usually back in stock within a few weeks. Reach out to them via email for eta of any part.

Clear inbox

Cleared now. Thanks for the heads up

The very same thing happened to me today, when throwing the car into a corner at a race track. Bolt snapped.

I recommend that everyone that has installed the McGill washers replace these with something more suitable ASAP.