What have you done with or to your M3 today?

NiBe wrote

I would say that they look more white in reality than at the pictures, less yellow, more white.

Nice! Do you have any night picture to share?

Blindside_137 wrote

Took it to work. Hesitated letting it sit out in 100 degrees but was worth it for the walk out and drive home.

She does look good!

I have thought about this on numerous occasions, only to not do it at all. Primarily because I can not see a good reason for me to drive it to work (about 70 miles round trip), have it sit in, currently, 100 degree heat baking the shit out of it for 10.5 hours, and then having the joy of driving home through rush hour traffic and have the chance of some moron totaling it for me. I know my situation is just not a good one for this car, which is why I have a fun beater that I can run into the ground without a moments loss of sleep.

I will have to enjoy the car just on the weekends....

tbuck wrote

Blindside_137 wrote

Took it to work. Hesitated letting it sit out in 100 degrees but was worth it for the walk out and drive home.

She does look good!

I have thought about this on numerous occasions, only to not do it at all. Primarily because I can not see a good reason for me to drive it to work (about 70 miles round trip), have it sit in, currently, 100 degree heat baking the shit out of it for 10.5 hours, and then having the joy of driving home through rush hour traffic and have the chance of some moron totaling it for me. I know my situation is just not a good one for this car, which is why I have a fun beater that I can run into the ground without a moments loss of sleep.

I will have to enjoy the car just on the weekends....

I agree with you man. Thankfully my commute is a few miles round trip and I can take the long way with some twisty bits to avoid any traffic.

I drove it to get fingerprinted for a job then I hooked it on a charger.

Back to Kansei KNP for summer cruising. Loving their offset without spacers. Might target +12 with my other set of wheels with some hubcentric spacers.

Hit the parts lottery against my better judgement (to lazy to swap coils to confirm), pulled a code for bad ignition coil on 2, a call to FCP and $235 later and the CEL is cleared

This was a slow failure by the way, almost felt like the fuel pump was going on me, intermittent hesitation and bucking in the 1500-2500 rpm range...

InnerBlueSkies wrote

Hit the parts lottery against my better judgement (to lazy to swap coils to confirm), pulled a code for bad ignition coil on 2, a call to FCP and $235 later and the CEL is cleared

This was a slow failure by the way, almost felt like the fuel pump was going on me, intermittent hesitation and bucking in the 1500-2500 rpm range...

Ugh
1 ignition coil costs that much?

XKxRome0ox wrote

Ugh
1 ignition coil costs that much?

They do now, could have saved a few bucks going used, wouldn't cheap out on anything but BMW for a part like that but I prefer OE over OEM for most things.

InnerBlueSkies wrote

Hit the parts lottery against my better judgement (to lazy to swap coils to confirm), pulled a code for bad ignition coil on 2, a call to FCP and $235 later and the CEL is cleared

This was a slow failure by the way, almost felt like the fuel pump was going on me, intermittent hesitation and bucking in the 1500-2500 rpm range...

Just one coil?

InnerBlueSkies wrote

They do now, could have saved a few bucks going used, wouldn't cheap out on anything but BMW for a part like that but I prefer OE over OEM for most things.

Wow, mind if i ask why you prefer OE over OEM

Shinom3 wrote

Wow, mind if i ask why you prefer OE over OEM

It cheaper and the same manufacturer just without the BMW logo. Done fine with my brakes Zimmerman, throttle actuators VDO, water pump, alternater, etc. Saved thousands and they all come with a lifetime warranty through FCP.

InnerBlueSkies wrote

It cheaper and the same manufacturer just without the BMW logo. Done fine with my brakes Zimmerman, throttle actuators VDO, water pump, alternater, etc. Saved thousands and they all come with a lifetime warranty through FCP.

Are there OE options for coil packs? Usually OE is exactly the same as OEM but with the BMW logo physically shaved off the part. But people seem to have bad luck with any coil packs that aren't OEM.

InnerBlueSkies wrote

It cheaper and the same manufacturer just without the BMW logo. Done fine with my brakes Zimmerman, throttle actuators VDO, water pump, alternater, etc. Saved thousands and they all come with a lifetime warranty through FCP.

OE is BMW branded which raised the question why OE is preferred

Letherique'd the car. Still looks good after 12 years and ~84TKM!!

Scharbag wrote

Letherique'd the car. Still looks good after 12 years and ~84TKM!!

Yeah, looks good indeed mate!

Scharbag wrote

Letherique'd the car. Still looks good after 12 years and ~84TKM!!

Same technique as others have mentioned or do you have a special twist on it?

spammysammich wrote

Scharbag wrote

Letherique'd the car. Still looks good after 12 years and ~84TKM!!

Same technique as others have mentioned or do you have a special twist on it?

Just followed the instructions. It was hawt and sunny here. Let it "simmer" for 2 days in the heat.

Scharbag wrote

Just followed the instructions. It was hawt and sunny here. Let it "simmer" for 2 days in the heat.

Looks great! Love Fox red, wish I had it in mine....

Need to do this to my wifes car, which sees LOTS more miles than mine. She has the Coral red interior and the seats are really starting to show the dirt when compared to the dash and door cards, etc.

InnerBlueSkies wrote

It cheaper and the same manufacturer just without the BMW logo. Done fine with my brakes Zimmerman, throttle actuators VDO, water pump, alternater, etc. Saved thousands and they all come with a lifetime warranty through FCP.

Noted.

Scharbag wrote

Letherique'd the car. Still looks good after 12 years and ~84TKM!!

Looks good bud, 12yrs wow

EJT86 wrote

OE is BMW branded which raised the question why OE is preferred

I should of said OE over genuine. I am clearly out of my league here and comfortable saying so. My point is if I can get the part from the same factory without the logo 25% cheaper I prefer that. Many do not and swear that a Valeo alternator is substandard to a BMW one....to each their own.
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This is from the FCP website, by no means the end all of the discussion but an interesting classification.


The Basics
OE OEM are indicators that the part you're buying meets or exceeds the quality of the original item in your vehicle. In general, OE means the part is the exact piece used in original manufacturing, while OEM means that the company is held to a high quality standard and that they produce OE parts for other manufacturers. When it comes to OE quality level, drag the sliders across every photo on this page to see exactly what we mean!

Original Equipment (OE) Parts: These are the same parts originally supplied to dealerships, except with the dealer logos removed. This is done by manufacturers so the parts can be sold outside the dealer network due to licensing agreements.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control.

Genuine Parts: These parts come branded by the vehicle manufacturer and at a premium cost, as they're sold through dealerships with higher overhead expenses. These are the same parts you would find at your local dealership.

Proud new owner of Throttle Actuators at 62K miles/99.8K Km