Track forum general chit chat.

DRLane wrote

Congrats okusa and nice job StripclubDJ

Thanks man!

StripclubDJ wrote

Thanks man!

I foresee coming down to you guys to get the wiring done as well and additional weight redux...

With all the Laguna footage (literally only redpriest ) I figured I'd join in as well. GGLC "advanced" group, first time at Laguna with the car, but I've done a lot of days with an NB and an ND there. Second time on it after repave, so much more fun and less sketchy, especially for turn 5. Best was a 1:40, optimal was a 1:38, but I can't put together a good lap to save my life

redpriest wrote

I foresee coming down to you guys to get the wiring done as well and additional weight redux...

Let us know !

danvitmon wrote

With all the Laguna footage (literally only redpriest ) I figured I'd join in as well. GGLC "advanced" group, first time at Laguna with the car, but I've done a lot of days with an NB and an ND there. Second time on it after repave, so much more fun and less sketchy, especially for turn 5. Best was a 1:40, optimal was a 1:38, but I can't put together a good lap to save my life

Damn I got some work to do to keep up with you people. I'm at 1:41

The caption says you have 245/40/18 Maxxis VR-1? is that right size?

StripclubDJ wrote

Thanks man!

bro actually made it for THURSDAY TEST DAY

omgzirra_exe wrote

bro actually made it for THURSDAY TEST DAY

Was there ever any doubt? Lol

danvitmon wrote

With all the Laguna footage (literally only redpriest ) I figured I'd join in as well. GGLC "advanced" group, first time at Laguna with the car, but I've done a lot of days with an NB and an ND there. Second time on it after repave, so much more fun and less sketchy, especially for turn 5. Best was a 1:40, optimal was a 1:38, but I can't put together a good lap to save my life

the BRRRZZZ commentary was the best at the uphill section haha

derbo wrote

Damn I got some work to do to keep up with you people. I'm at 1:41

The caption says you have 245/40/18 Maxxis VR-1? is that right size?

Yeah, 245/40/18 VR-1 From what I have read, a 255 is optimal on a 10.5" wide wheel, but Maxxis had a crazy good deal of only $490 shipped for the 245s, vs $700ish shipped for a 255/265/275.

Miata guys say to run a 205 on an 8, 225 on a 9, 245 on a 10, and 265 on an 11. The sidewall is actually kind of pre-loaded in a sense, and in theory you don't need as much slip angle to get the tire into a set, but I could be completely wrong.

Tire rack also did a video on this and actually found the 225 on a 9" was the fastest combination on smaller/tighter courses, and was actually .08s slower than a 245 on a 9" around a ~2min road course.

I have a set of 18x11 GT4 wheels with 275/35/18 V730s, but I need aftermarket dampers with smaller shock bodies to be able to fit them. I am still on EDC dampers, and I need a ~20mm spacer to clear it, which doesn't give me enough thread engagement with the Core4 14mm 92mm MSI stud conversion. The GT4 wheels have a massive back pad as others have stated as well.

omgzirra_exe wrote

the BRRRZZZ commentary was the best at the uphill section haha

Hahaha yeah not sure what the thought process was there but at least he pointed my by. Lotus club is great to run with, but there were 3-5 cars in advanced that just didn't belong there at all.

First pic is passenger side and second pick is driver side. I’ve always been confused when the adjustment marks on the camber plates aren’t the same side to side. This is running with my street camber specs. I was going to mark them before I got a track alignment.

Someone educate me please.

danvitmon wrote

Yeah, 245/40/18 VR-1 From what I have read, a 255 is optimal on a 10.5" wide wheel, but Maxxis had a crazy good deal of only $490 shipped for the 245s, vs $700ish shipped for a 255/265/275.

Miata guys say to run a 205 on an 8, 225 on a 9, 245 on a 10, and 265 on an 11. The sidewall is actually kind of pre-loaded in a sense, and in theory you don't need as much slip angle to get the tire into a set, but I could be completely wrong.

Tire rack also did a video on this and actually found the 225 on a 9" was the fastest combination on smaller/tighter courses, and was actually .08s slower than a 245 on a 9" around a ~2min road course.

I have a set of 18x11 GT4 wheels with 275/35/18 V730s, but I need aftermarket dampers with smaller shock bodies to be able to fit them. I am still on EDC dampers, and I need a ~20mm spacer to clear it, which doesn't give me enough thread engagement with the Core4 14mm 92mm MSI stud conversion. The GT4 wheels have a massive back pad as others have stated as well.

i have V730 in the same spec on the 10.5 and its optimally stretch imo, but on a 18x11... that might be too much do you have pics of them mounted onto the wheel already?

although i could be wrong, but it just makes logical sense to me that you'd want to run a slight stretch vs a larger stretch.

the V730 are already a narrow tire as well.. so i'm curious on how it looks on a 11in wide.

StripclubDJ wrote

Was there ever any doubt? Lol

nooooo

Bimmer Barney wrote

First pic is passenger side and second pick is driver side. I’ve always been confused when the adjustment marks on the camber plates aren’t the same side to side. This is running with my street camber specs. I was going to mark them before I got a track alignment.

Someone educate me please.

Cars aren’t perfectly square - You could have the same camber setting on each side and the plates may be in differing relative locations.

omgzirra_exe wrote

i have V730 in the same spec on the 10.5 and its optimally stretch imo, but on a 18x11... that might be too much do you have pics of them mounted onto the wheel already?

although i could be wrong, but it just makes logical sense to me that you'd want to run a slight stretch vs a larger stretch.

the V730 are already a narrow tire as well.. so i'm curious on how it looks on a 11in wide.

Here are some pics of when I test fit them a few months ago. I need aftermarket dampers with a thinner shock body to fit the fronts comfortably sadly, so I can't actually use them right now.

https://imgur .com/gallery/upnYvsz

Bimmer Barney wrote

First pic is passenger side and second pick is driver side. I’ve always been confused when the adjustment marks on the camber plates aren’t the same side to side. This is running with my street camber specs. I was going to mark them before I got a track alignment.

Someone educate me please.

If you pop off the strut bar mounts (black ring in photos), you may find that the top hat studs on one of dampers are not slid all of the way inboard in their respective slots. This is somewhat common and would also lead to different camber plate adjustments to reach the same camber. I found this on my car after an alignment shop said they could only get X camber on one side, but were able to get X + .3 on the other side.

I’ll check it out!

Bimmer Barney wrote

First pic is passenger side and second pick is driver side. I’ve always been confused when the adjustment marks on the camber plates aren’t the same side to side. This is running with my street camber specs. I was going to mark them before I got a track alignment.

Someone educate me please.

You can loosen the 4 front subframe bolts and center it. There’s enough play there to get more than 1deg camber difference each side

StripclubDJ wrote

.

I need dat latch to fix my both bumper holders. where can I get them

Some questions for you nice folk...

I did my oil change a few weeks ago and the main drain plug wouldn't torque to the 18ftlbs but I could feel the crush washer "crush" by feel with a 1/4" ratchet, so obviously the threads are starting to strip... What did you do for your drain plug repair? Rogue engineering recommends drilling/tapping to an M14 drain plug with their stock style stainless bolts.

The only concern I have with that is that the aluminum around the threads will be even thinner and possibly break with repeated oil changes? I am not a monkey so I think this will be the way to go but others do the "helicoil" style repair, but then some of the oil won't drain out. And I saw a post where part of the aluminum actually broke after the heli coil repair and just sat in the oil pan when the guy dropped the pan. So this also worries me lol

Another question I have is what hood vents do you recommend? I see a lot of people running the trackspec package, but the racelouvers vents seem to have actual data backing them up with a well designed vent that has a small lip at the front of the vent to help the air vent out. I know nothing about aerodynamics but it seems like that front lip is beneficial since a lot of race cars do that, such as the 992 cup cars with their front radiator vents.

danvitmon wrote

Some questions for you nice folk...

I did my oil change a few weeks ago and the main drain plug wouldn't torque to the 18ftlbs but I could feel the crush washer "crush" by feel with a 1/4" ratchet, so obviously the threads are starting to strip... What did you do for your drain plug repair? Rogue engineering recommends drilling/tapping to an M14 drain plug with their stock style stainless bolts.

The only concern I have with that is that the aluminum around the threads will be even thinner and possibly break with repeated oil changes? I am not a monkey so I think this will be the way to go but others do the "helicoil" style repair, but then some of the oil won't drain out. And I saw a post where part of the aluminum actually broke after the heli coil repair and just sat in the oil pan when the guy dropped the pan. So this also worries me lol

Another question I have is what hood vents do you recommend? I see a lot of people running the trackspec package, but the racelouvers vents seem to have actual data backing them up with a well designed vent that has a small lip at the front of the vent to help the air vent out. I know nothing about aerodynamics but it seems like that front lip is beneficial since a lot of race cars do that, such as the 992 cup cars with their front radiator vents.

do a timesert, common repair on e9xM3 oil pans. can be done with the pan on the engine, as long as you know the procedure to prevent shavings getting inside the pan. (basically just grease the drill bit a lot)

as far as hood vent goes, you want to extract as much hot air as you can, so regardless of who you go with that should be the main thing.

remove the hot tumbling air inside your engine bay, remove the high pressure zones, generate low pressure zones that then effective extract the hot air.

the little gurney on vents will help for sure.

alternative options, varis hood, or M24 hood as well..

although if i am wrong please educate me a bit i got nothing else to do today

omgzirra_exe wrote

do a timesert, common repair on e9xM3 oil pans. can be done with the pan on the engine, as long as you know the procedure to prevent shavings getting inside the pan. (basically just grease the drill bit a lot)

as far as hood vent goes, you want to extract as much hot air as you can, so regardless of who you go with that should be the main thing.

remove the hot tumbling air inside your engine bay, remove the high pressure zones, generate low pressure zones that then effective extract the hot air.

the little gurney on vents will help for sure.

alternative options, varis hood, or M24 hood as well..

although if i am wrong please educate me a bit i got nothing else to do today

Sounds good, the timesert kit seems like the way to go but I would rather ask the people that have already done it to check if it is as good as people say it is.

Still torn on hood vents and want to wait for others to chime in since the race louvers seem to be the most efficient option, but the track spec look better but seem to be less efficient? Regardless I am going to get them paint matched to the hood to stand out less.