omgzirra_exe wroteThis made me laughhot dog feeding hole
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07-21-2026LAST POST
Brake Bleeding:
I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.
I’ve never bled using the dsc/abs pump, as seen here:
Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.
I’ve never bled using the dsc/abs pump, as seen here:
Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
iamtrashman wroteI think a SoloDL can get most of that. On my E46, I do have an oil pressure switch connected to a small but stupidly loud siren inside the car. So if I lose oil pressure the siren goes off. I can clearly hear it at full throttle with a helmet. After much practice on my E46 330 (oil pump nut) it is unlikely you’ll see the red oil light before it’s too late.What is the general consensus on gauges/meters in here?
It seems most people just track and run until they get a warning on the dash or their DCT stops shifting well, or else mix in a cool down lap once in a while.
I am on the fence about trying one of those P3 OBD2 vent gauges. It seems like other than oil pressure it has all the stuff I would need or want to keep an eye on while on track, but they seem kind of uncommon on the forum outside of supercharged guys (probably because it can be used as a boost gauge). I figure being able to have the coolant temp read out on the gauge and oil temp on the cluster should be enough to just see if anything is really spiking. I think it can also display IAT/AFR/Voltage and a few other parameters. Seems like it has a shift light function and can clear codes as well.
If anyone has experience with one I would love to hear your thoughts on it, and for those that run no gauges, any particular reason you have elected not to?
The switch opens at 18psi so I have a defeat switch for when the oil is warm and the car is idling.
Richbot wroteSame here. Owned my car since new. Love driving it everyday. I’m traveling this week…I miss it! Stuck in a Jeep Gladiator rental ☹️It's still my street car after 14 years and 143,000 miles, so it is occasionally also my track car
The reason it is still my street car after 14 years is nobody ever made a better car before or since, cost no object, and nobody ever will
Bimmer Barney wrote4.5 L is a lot… are you sure you need that much?Brake Bleeding:
I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.
Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
I siphon the fluid out, careful not to go below the feed lines, then top off with fresh fluid and begin my bleed as you described. I can bleed all four corners pretty generously and only use one bottle of srf.
Agreed. I had removed my calipers to do a deep cleaning and so I knew I had introduced air into the system. I was also was due for a full flush so just went overboard on flushing. Wanted to be sure I wasn’t left with any air. First 2.5 liters was cheap stuff and then I flushed through SRF.
Bimmer Barney wroteThat is a ton of fluid. Even when I installed new calipers at all four corners and flushed out the system I didnt use close to that much.Brake Bleeding:
I’ve just completed a fluid flush and bleed. I use a power bleeder and go RR, RL, FR, FL to bleed. I pumped about 4.5L of fluid through the system and the pedal feels great. It’s the old school bleed method I’ve always done.
I’ve never bled using the dsc/abs pump, as seen here:
Should I bleed that way too/instead in the future? Just curious if I’m missing out on even better brakes. My brakes work awesome, but I’m curious if there is better!!!
You shouldn't need to do the abs pump bleed method unless you run the system too low and get air into the system.
I didn't think ahead when I replaced my master cylinder and booster with used parts while waiting for new ones to ship and ended up using quite a few liters of Endless fluid.
4.5 L sounds about right if you introduced air into the ABS unit by either disconnecting the hard lines or running the master cylinder empty. Once the air bubbles get dislodged, they have to travel quite a long way to go out of the caliper.
4.5 L sounds about right if you introduced air into the ABS unit by either disconnecting the hard lines or running the master cylinder empty. Once the air bubbles get dislodged, they have to travel quite a long way to go out of the caliper.
i *just* did this (replaced my master + booster) and only needed about a liter of fluid. did a powerbleed, then a DSC bleed, then one more power bleed for good measure. had lots of sputtering and pedal felt good. 4.5L seems like A LOT.
Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
Bimmer Barney wroteNever tried that way but a tip I learned to not lose too much fluid is to get something to press down on the brake pedal when taking off the calipers until it’s time to bleedYeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
Bimmer Barney wroteI got air in my DSC unit a few years ago and did the DSC bleed, and used about 1L to get it out. Using the two-person pedal method, and then using a pressure bleeder, did not work on their own.Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
If you were seeing tiny bubbles, those could be air entering the tube through the bleeder screw. Doesn't mean there was air in the system.
Tommysalami wroteGreat reminder, be gentle with those bleeders. It’s easy to over tighten damage threads resulting in a leak/air.I got air in my DSC unit a few years ago and did the DSC bleed, and used about 1L to get it out. Using the two-person pedal method, and then using a pressure bleeder, did not work on their own.
If you were seeing tiny bubbles, those could be air entering the tube through the bleeder screw. Doesn't mean there was air in the system.
Bimmer Barney I too have gone through several liters, it’s not ever flush but possible. I’ll use a cheap fluid and then an expensive single liter for the final pass through. I use a OBD tool to actuate the ABS pump for each corner. Always done at the end of the process so likely I’m doing it in the wrong sequence.
Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:
- What's the main purpose(s) to getting an aftermarket fuel cell, as opposed to retaining our OEM fuel cell?
- What is the best fuel cell you can buy for this platform? I've narrowed my search down to the following:
1) Merin SFT Fuel Cell for BMW E90 (made in Italy) -- They have a few different models 2451, 2700, 2955
Features for the Merin unit are as follows:
The Merin SFT Safety Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
2)FIA Homologated FuelSafe Bladder With Internal Fuel Pump System from HGK Racing
The HGK Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
I'm not sure what pricing looks like for the Merin setup, but curious if there are better options than these.
Here are some pics of the units:
- What's the main purpose(s) to getting an aftermarket fuel cell, as opposed to retaining our OEM fuel cell?
- What is the best fuel cell you can buy for this platform? I've narrowed my search down to the following:
1) Merin SFT Fuel Cell for BMW E90 (made in Italy) -- They have a few different models 2451, 2700, 2955
Features for the Merin unit are as follows:
The Merin SFT Safety Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
- FIA approved
- Internal Safety FOAM
- fno. 2 closure plates
- electrical connector
- internal catch tank
- no. 2 li pumps to fill internal catch tank
- pick-up and return -06
- fiberglass cover
- antirollover vent valve FIA approved into filler neck Ø 50 mm (or Ø 57)
2)FIA Homologated FuelSafe Bladder With Internal Fuel Pump System from HGK Racing
The HGK Fuel Cell for BMW E90 features:
- choice of 30ltr [8 gal] or 38ltr [10 gal] fuel cell (compatible with ethanol products)
- choice of Aeromotive A1000 or Eliminator in-tank fuel pump with 100 micron pre-filter
- FIA required aluminum container (color of your choice) with fixing straps.
I'm not sure what pricing looks like for the Merin setup, but curious if there are better options than these.
Here are some pics of the units:
reidetailing wroteSafety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:
- What's the main purpose(s) to getting an aftermarket fuel cell, as opposed to retaining our OEM fuel cell?
I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
DRLane wroteSafety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.
I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
reidetailingAre you considering a cell for your project? That’s probably the only bonkers upgrade for a street car (outside of the carbon doors without protection). Having fuel lines in the cockpit should necessitate fire suppression and appropriate clothing.
Bimmer Barney wroteI do the DSC/ABS thing then go rip up and down the backstreet to engage ABS a few times.Yeah 4.5L was a lot. But I had it and pushed it through. Believe it or not I had a few bubbles at the front Calipers even at towards the end. Nobody really answered my question and I think that's because nobody really does the dsc/abs bleed procedure. Everyone seems to do it the traditional way like i did.
reidetailing wrotePersonally i like the OEM style 23gal/90L ones i forgot who made one.. but i remember seeing it. although i simply want the larger fuel tank... to make driving to and from the track easier and less fill ups lol.Hoping to get some great input with my below questions:
- What is the best fuel cell you can buy for this platform? I've narrowed my search down to the following:
example, i will literally be around 80 miles remaining from irvine to buttonwillow... with a 17gal fuel tank. (E85)
DRLane wroteThanks Devin!Safety, fill rate, and managing fuel pressure under load.
I like the OEM looking option given it places the weight low and more centralized.
DRLane wroteI am considering it, especially if it saves weight.
Are you considering a cell for your project? That’s probably the only bonkers upgrade for a street car (outside of the carbon doors without protection). Having fuel lines in the cockpit should necessitate fire suppression and appropriate clothing.
omgzirra_exe wroteGot it, I'll try to do some digging...thanks Alex!Personally i like the OEM style 23gal/90L ones i forgot who made one.. but i remember seeing it. although i simply want the larger fuel tank... to make driving to and from the track easier and less fill ups lol.
example, i will literally be around 80 miles remaining from irvine to buttonwillow... with a 17gal fuel tank. (E85)
reidetailingAlso capacity. Those 3 different model numbers correspond to different liters. That merin one is the slickest answer, but doesn’t save much weight, especially when it’s bigger than OEM. But it is in the lowest spot possible.
With shipping, customs, etc it’s over $8k for that option. Plus fuel pumps. We considered it for a while, but ended up doing a custom fuel cell in the trunk area that met what we wanted to do capacity wise and was way less expensive.
kolosy wroteHow did you do the DSC bleed?i *just* did this (replaced my master + booster) and only needed about a liter of fluid. did a powerbleed, then a DSC bleed, then one more power bleed for good measure. had lots of sputtering and pedal felt good. 4.5L seems like A LOT.
The ISTA instructions state the procedure requires two people and a pressure bleeder. The second person pumps the brake pedal after the DSC activates for a specific corner and during this time, a lot of fluid should be flowing out. My pressure was set to 15 PSI. I purchased a brand new Motiv bleeder, filled it, and still need to refill it with fluid after doing just the rear corners during the DSC bleed procedure.
Also took me several DSC bleed plan runs in ISTA until air bubbles stopped coming out. Remember the air has to travel from the DSC unit, through the hard lines, and out of the caliper so waiting about 10 seconds the DSC activation and brake pedal pumps should guarantee it comes out. If you're seeing air bubbles right away after opening the bleeder screw, that's not from the DSC unit.
evilspiritM3 wroteThanks
Also capacity. Those 3 different model numbers correspond to different liters. That merin one is the slickest answer, but doesn’t save much weight, especially when it’s bigger than OEM. But it is in the lowest spot possible.
With shipping, customs, etc it’s over $8k for that option. Plus fuel pumps. We considered it for a while, but ended up doing a custom fuel cell in the trunk area that met what we wanted to do capacity wise and was way less expensive.
evilspiritM3 (what's your name)?A few follow-up questions to your response:
- Does the Merin one save any weight whatsoever?
- How much weight does say your setup save compared to both the OEM and that Merin one?
- Is there a better purpose for Fuel Tank/Cell to be at the lowest spot possible, as opposed to how you have it in your trunk?
- What makes the Merin one so expensive? Just trying to gauge where the $8K price is coming from, compared to even a Fuelsafe option being like $4K USD.
Thanks, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
~Alex
reidetailing wroteAlex, my name is also Alex-Thanks
A few follow-up questions to your response:
Does the Merin one save any weight whatsoever?
How much weight does say your setup save compared to both the OEM and that Merin one?
Is there a better purpose for Fuel Tank/Cell to be at the lowest spot possible, as opposed to how you have it in your trunk?
What makes the Merin one so expensive? Just trying to gauge where the $8K price is coming from, compared to even a Fuelsafe option being like $4K USD.
Thanks, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
~Alex
The OEM fuel tank is the best place as far as I can tell for a fuel tank. It’s as low as you can go.
I doubt the tanks themselves weigh that much more or less than one another. But when you add 5-10 extra gallons of fuel, that weight make the tank weight feel less consequential.
My placement isn’t perfect compared to the OEM location. You can see pics in the sedan are faster thread.
I think the cost of the merin tank is like $4-5k. VAC is the only dealer in the U.S. I think and the quote for shipping, customs, etc got up to $8k+.
