Track forum general chit chat.

Put it where it looks good the best then raise the front 1/2". M3SQRD has a more scientific method.

sperkins wrote

What’s everyone’s consensus on ride height? From what I’m reading, it’s not part of the discussion when everyone talks about their track alignment.
Barry from 3DM (Ohlins) gave me some recommended alignment settings, but no ride height numbers.

BTW, I found a shop in Rancho Cordova (Valley Motorwerks), that appears to be a race shop disguised as a BMW service center. They quoted me $600 for alignment/corner balance.

As low as possible lmao, but try to keep the front rake higher than the rear.

I’m sitting at less than half an inch from the tire since I don’t remember my exact height from the rim to the fender.

For track days, when I raise the car back up, I usually bump the front up by 1/2 inch, making it 1 inch overall from the top of the tire.

Fixing the rake back to normal.

ideally once you set your height, you might want to jack up each corner from the tire and see how much suspension trave you have and adjust ride height again from there.

amg6975 wrote

Put it where it looks good the best then raise the front 1/2". M3SQRD has a more scientific method.

Thank you

omgzirra_exe wrote

As low as possible lmao, but try to keep the front rake higher than the rear.

I’m sitting at less than half an inch from the tire since I don’t remember my exact height from the rim to the fender.

For track days, when I raise the car back up, I usually bump the front up by 1/2 inch, making it 1 inch overall from the top of the tire.

Fixing the rake back to normal.

ideally once you set your height, you might want to jack up each corner from the tire and see how much suspension trave you have and adjust ride height again from there.

Sounds like 1/2” in the front is the setup

sperkins wrote

Thank you

The front ride height has to be set wrt the rear ride height. Just raising the front an arbitrary 1/2” may still result in too much forward rake.

A better approach is to measure the heights of the side midpoint base of the jack pads (transferred to the metal chassis adjacent to the jack pads; i.e., points that won’t shift unlike a damaged jack pad). Once you’ve set the rear, the front pad should be 5/16-7/16” below the rear pad (I forget what forum I’m on at times and, as a result, I get e9x M and f8x numbers mixed up). I typically use the lower end of the range so there’s less overall forward rake.

i'm thinking forward to putting my car back together. i'm thinking i'd just use a gallon of oem coolant with distilled water. any objections? anything better? this car never sees freezing temps.

roastbeef wrote

i'm thinking forward to putting my car back together. i'm thinking i'd just use a gallon of oem coolant with distilled water. any objections? anything better? this car never sees freezing temps.

Yes, straight water with wetter and no coolant.

DRLane wrote

Yes, straight water with water and no coolant.

i thought i read something years ago, that pure water in a cooling system is not advisable because you want some lubricity... was that nonsense?

what about water and water wetter? i think i read someone on here runs that.

roastbeef wrote

i thought i read something years ago, that pure water in a cooling system is not advisable because you want some lubricity... was that nonsense?

what about water and water wetter? i think i read someone on here runs that.

Yes, wetter was corrected to water…. I fixed it

roastbeef wrote

i'm thinking forward to putting my car back together. i'm thinking i'd just use a gallon of oem coolant with distilled water. any objections? anything better? this car never sees freezing temps.

I recommend a mix of RLWW and OEM Coolant.

like 70 coolant / 30 RLWW + distilled

and you'll be fine, but you can run it on a street car with pure RLWW + distilled, you just need to change it more often.

Alternatively, you could buy RL SuperCool w/ Water Wetter and this is a great alternative. to OEM Coolant + WW

New wang and trunk
74" ZWG330 Zublon

Trunk is just a fiberglass skin, so I still need to fab up some mounts (hood pins) to hold it in place

turbo_joe wrote

New wang and trunk
74" ZWG330 Zublon

Trunk is just a fiberglass skin, so I still need to fab up some mounts (hood pins) to hold it in place

Full blown race-car stuff right there!
With the wider fenders, is there a need to vent the rear bumper?

Love that - what diffuser?

sperkins wrote

Full blown race-car stuff right there!
With the wider fenders, is there a need to vent the rear bumper?

The bottom half of the bumper is gone lol. No much left to vent anymore, I could cut out where the evap used to be but it’s all capped off to be smooth

mikerunt wrote

Love that - what diffuser?

Just some stuff I threw together myself. It’s nothing special.

turbo_joe wrote

New wang and trunk
74" ZWG330 Zublon

Trunk is just a fiberglass skin, so I still need to fab up some mounts (hood pins) to hold it in place

sweet. any chance you'd be willing to show the wang mount -> trunk/fender interface? i'm going to be trying to fab something up for the 72" alu wing i had fall in my lap.

kolosy wrote

sweet. any chance you'd be willing to show the wang mount -> trunk/fender interface? i'm going to be trying to fab something up for the 72" alu wing i had fall in my lap.

It’s a hinge mount design. Everything made by Zebulon. I actually have two spare uprights if you’re interested. I have to make mounts for the trunk and I think an oem trunk would need to be trimmed. My fiberglass trunk just barely clears.
If I remember I will grab some pics tomorrow.

turbo_joe wrote

New wang and trunk
74" ZWG330 Zublon

Trunk is just a fiberglass skin, so I still need to fab up some mounts (hood pins) to hold it in place

Looking through your rear window, did you cut out the rear bulkhead where the speakers used to be? If so how much weight did that cut out and did you do this anywhere else?

Thanks!

Rubin

Parcel shelf was 12lbs when I removed it.

Let’s see pics of those that have removed the parcel shelf

mikerunt wrote

Let’s see pics of those that have removed the parcel shelf

Parcel and more!

No expected issues with rigidity or anything?