Track forum general chit chat.

mikerunt wrote

No expected issues with rigidity or anything?

None. Retained all the strongest points in the chassis, and then tied cage directly into these points, frame rails, subframe, suspension pickups/towers, etc. Eveeythiing removed is just redundant. So added weight back in but stiffened the chassis by X multiples.

random, but is anyone looking to offload a clubsport-style build? buddy is thinking of getting into an E92, wants something safe (i.e. w/ seats and [half]cage) and track-ready that's still street legal so he can drive it the 2-3 hours to the tracks around here.

kolosy wrote

random, but is anyone looking to offload a clubsport-style build? buddy is thinking of getting into an E92, wants something safe (i.e. w/ seats and [half]cage) and track-ready that's still street legal so he can drive it the 2-3 hours to the tracks around here.

what's their budget?

former 240 s14 wrote

Looking through your rear window, did you cut out the rear bulkhead where the speakers used to be? If so how much weight did that cut out and did you do this anywhere else?

Thanks!

Rubin

Just used an angle grinder/cut off wheel and cut it out. I did it while the windows were out to do my roll cage before installing the lexan. I cut up a bunch of the car at the same time and did not weigh any of the individual pieces.

DRLane wrote

None. Retained all the strongest points in the chassis, and then tied cage directly into these points, frame rails, subframe, suspension pickups/towers, etc. Eveeythiing removed is just redundant. So added weight back in but stiffened the chassis by X multiples.

I assume the cage isnt done here? Great looking setup but I dont see a harness bar

omgzirra_exe wrote

what's their budget?

he was seriously looking at 981 clubsports recently, but then decided to go with a spec miata for w2w + an HPDE car. soo... reasonable? But i'll get an actual $$ from him.

kolosy wrote

random, but is anyone looking to offload a clubsport-style build? buddy is thinking of getting into an E92, wants something safe (i.e. w/ seats and [half]cage) and track-ready that's still street legal so he can drive it the 2-3 hours to the tracks around here.

I have exactly that. I will send you a PM to discuss more.

turbo_joe wrote

I assume the cage isnt done here? Great looking setup but I dont see a harness bar

A couple bars remain out for access (FIA down bars, harness, etc). Yes they’ll all fit just left out.

Working on pedal box mounting etc and need the room.

kolosy wrote

he was seriously looking at 981 clubsports recently, but then decided to go with a spec miata for w2w + an HPDE car. soo... reasonable? But i'll get an actual $$ from him.

I see, I’m only asking because I’ve tossed around the idea of selling my car. It’s not really a Clubsport, but it could be once you strip the interior and add a cage lol.

Outside of that, it’s track-ready, just needs some maintenance:

Replacing the Alcon rotors ($1,100 w/ everything)

New engine mounts

New valve cover (did the gaskets a while ago, but just now caught some weeping on the OEM cover)

car has a SAP error, should be okay if you live in a state that doesn't require it, but most likely a o2 wiring harness issue, i checked my SAP and it's fine.

So I can be pretty flexible on price if I do decide to sell.

kolosy wrote

he was seriously looking at 981 clubsports recently, but then decided to go with a spec miata for w2w + an HPDE car. soo... reasonable? But i'll get an actual $$ from him.

My car can “technically” be registered and plated…

mikerunt wrote

My car can “technically” be registered and plated…

haha i don't think he'll be cool with having to wear a helmet for the 3 hour drive up to road america. i did send yours to him when he was looking to tow.

I finally pulled my tags last month. Still would drive to local cars and coffee

I even forgot to remove my tag for my last race of the year

Some other cool weight savings off the nose - about 10lbs net on the frame rails.

Also, seat mounts for using the factory points (as they provide meaningful structure tying in the trans tunnel plus already pretty f’ing strong) while moving the seat backward a foot.

what is the deal with shortening the frame, doc? tire clearance?

roastbeef wrote

what is the deal with shortening the frame, doc? tire clearance?

Weight - Replaced that section with aluminum vs speed holes… It’s effectively the same length.

I expect more of you Beef

i like it! i also appreciate much of the interior skin being removed.
i'm going to be buying a set of punch/dies and hole up parts of my interior skin.

roastbeef wrote

i like it! i also appreciate much of the interior skin being removed.
i'm going to be buying a set of punch/dies and hole up parts of my interior skin.

Love it! The challenge with these cars is getting the weight back to some semblance of balance. It’s easy to land with a 58/42 front/rear when removing the rear stuff. The front weight is hard to get off!

DRLane wrote

Love it! The challenge with these cars is getting the weight back to some semblance of balance. It’s easy to land with a 58/42 front/rear when removing the rear stuff. The front weight is hard to get off!

while we're chatting doc, i saw a post of yours that shows your steering wheel. share with the rest of the class what you got there... looks good.

roastbeef wrote

while we're chatting doc, i saw a post of yours that shows your steering wheel. share with the rest of the class what you got there... looks good.

Honestly nothing special, just a wheel. Will get new button assignments as the car comes back together.

was it difficult to wire up? i've been told it is difficult to do this. did you get rid of the clockspring? how difficult was it to "assign" the buttons?

And is this something KMP did based on a config you spec’d or put together but someone else? The clock spring is the headache - can’t just remove it. I know KMP does have some options to move stuff to the wheel though.

roastbeef wrote

was it difficult to wire up? i've been told it is difficult to do this. did you get rid of the clockspring? how difficult was it to "assign" the buttons?

Not particularly hard. Just wires, switches, and rubber boots. Feeding into a Krontech QR with MS connector inside.

You don’t have to remove the clock spring, I used this on a streetable car for a while.

Assigning buttons depends on the button. I followed the directions from a KMP wheel someone shared with me. Checked and I must’ve deleted them. I can dig deeper if serious.