NRW Design bolt through Vanos Covers DIY/DISCUSSION

What’s up guys! I just installed NRW Design’s new bolt through solution VANOS Covers and I wanted to clear up some misconceptions as well as go through the install procedure. The reason I went with NRW and waited for them to release them, is because no one is doing it like NRW. They put their products through immense R&D and proper testing. They went through 40+ bolts strength testing these covers and making sure their product would actually last the test of time and wouldn’t just make profit. NRW did not pay me, I payed full price for their valve covers, vanos covers, billet spark plug tubes, and gaskets and I could not be more pleased. Thank you to NRW for helping us make the S65 bulletproof!

Now to the install

I want to preface this and say im a BMW dealership technician of 3 years. I was nervous about the whole reverse threaded bolts crazy torque sequence thing at first but after thoroughly reading bmw’s repair instructions and doing it, it’s honestly pretty straightforward forward and simple once you understand the process. If you know what you’re doing and do everything correctly there should be absolutely zero issues. This is a bit more intensive DIY so I would be weary there if you do not have much mechanical experience especially with delicate engines like this one.

TIMING DISCLAIMER:
People believe timing is affected when installing this style of covers or that the motor must be re-timed afterwards because the Vanos units are unbolted. However, if your motor is already in time there is no reason for it to become out of time. If you do everything correctly and carefully, nothing is affected.

TIMING TOOLS REQUIRED:
You will have to have special S65 timing tools to lock down the cams as well as the crank. CTA is a good brand and you can pick up their set from amazon. I used BMW’s since i have access. Fitment is exactly the exact same thing.

NEED TO REMOVE:
To get to the vanos gears prepare to remove the plenum, valve covers, timing covers, the radiator fan as you will need to be able to turn the engine, and the oem plastic vanos covers. Make sure to put down rags or shop towels to insure no plastic shards enter the engine

**RELEASE PARKING BRAKE AND ENGAGE NEUTRAL GEAR**

STEP ONE: Attachment #1
To begin you must first put the motor into TDC (top dead center) position of cylinder #1. The crank pulley has two small channels on the top ridge, one is labeled OT (TDC in German) and 10°(only used during torque sequence) The pin tool in the S65 timing tool kit will slide into a hollow cylinder just above and to the right of the crank pulley and lock the crank into either channel. The S65 has two TDC settings, TDC position of cylinder #1, where all the cam markings point up, and in the second position “TDC overlap” where the cam markings face down. Ill get back to the later. With the cam engravings all facing upwards, lock the special tool into that hollow cylinder and lock the crank pulley into OT.

STEP TWO: Attachment #1
Starting on the driver side (bank 2) the timing tools that are for locking down the cams are installed. Clean the area of the cylinder head where the tools will sit and all contact points of the tools as well. If the motor is timed correctly and is in the proper TDC setting. The tools should slide over the cams no problem. Thread the bolts in by hand and torque to 10nm.

STEP THREE: Attachment #2
Now to remove the vanos bolts for banks 2 cylinders 5-8. Remember these are left hand thread. Yes that means they are righty loosey, you do not want to forget that. I personally broke both bolts loose starting with the inlet side per the repair instruction then replaced a bolt and washer for a bolt and vanos cover one by one. However the repair instruction is for completely removing the vanos. So I would recommend braking loose and removing them one by one starting with the intake side (closest to the center of the engine) then installing the new bolts and vanos covers in by hand and hand tightening them before the torque sequence is started just to be safe. Per the repair instruction make sure to coat the bolts contact points with copper paste and coat the threads of the bolts in oil.


STEP FOUR: Attachment #3
Its time for the fun stuff the torque sequence, its pretty easy it would help immensely if you have a digital torque wrench that will go in reverse. Remember LEFT HAND THREAD, LEFTY TIGHTY. Pull the crank pin tool up, turn the motor until you can place it into the 10° channel and lock it in. Perform the torque sequence starting with the intake side only, then exhaust. Torque sequence is as follows one by one in order: 10nm. 20nm. 80nm. then 200 degrees. Thats turning the bolt another 200 degrees out of 360. Loosen the bolts completely then tighten them to 10nm, per the repair instructions turn the motor back into TDC and perform the last torque sequence starting with the inlet side then exhaust side. It’s the same torque sequence but 10nm was already done. Final torque sequence: 20nm. 80nm. 200 degrees. See not that bad. Remove the timings tools for the cams only.


STEP FIVE: Attachment #4
Now to move onto bank 1 for cylinder 1-4.
Keep the engine in TDC of cylinder #1 and place the timing tools over the cams of bank 1. To be able to slide the tools on, you will need to slightly move each cam with a 26mm wrench one at a time to place each tool over each cam. Hold them until they allow the tool to slide all the way down and screw in bolts by hand only. Torque the timing tool bolts to 10nm.


STEP SIX: Attachment #5 & Attachment #6
Replace each Vanos bolt and spacer with a new bolt and a NRW vanos cover, again one at a time starting with the outlet side per repair instructions. Do not forget to coat the contact surface of the bolts with copper paste and coat threads with oil. Screw in bolts hand tight. Place the motor bock into 10° before TDC and perform the first torque sequence one by one. Turn back to TDC and perform the final torque spec! Now you’re all done!


CHECKING TIMING:
Like I said you don't need to check timing ot anything unless you do something dumb and removed all the bolts and start pulling on chains and vanos. But I thought it was cool so I wanted to find out the process. With the engine where it is in TDC of cylinder 1, starting on bank 2 again if the timing tools that hold the cams in place sit absolutely flush on the head no play, bank 2 is good. There is a permissible limit 1.0mm allowed between the tools. Remove the tools. Spin the engine 360 degrees to “over lap TDC” and place the timing tools onto bank 1. If they sit flush same as the other side you’re in time.

I hope this cleared up questions and by the end of this you should know if you are capable of doing it or not 😂

Update: finished the job last Saturday, drove the car 7hrs to LA on Monday with zero issues. She feels better than ever and no leaks! ZERO TOP OFFS MADE 😂

I think you check bank 1 at overlap. Unless that’s just a typo.

If someone needs a video M539 Restorations does a complete S65 build on a stand. Fast forward to around the 50 minute mark for the vanos covers install and timing.

spammysammich wrote

I think you check bank 1 at overlap. Unless that’s just a typo.

Yes it is a typo thank you! 😅😂

Bank 2: TDC of cylinder 1

Bank 1: overlap tdc

nick3753 wrote

If someone needs a video M539 Restorations does a complete S65 build on a stand. Fast forward to around the 50 minute mark for the vanos covers install and timing.

Its a great video! However, he is completely rebuilding the engine so he actually has to install the vanos and time it. This post is to better understand the actual process, as well as to show you do not need to do everything he did.

Did you consider Mporium, and if so, what made you go with NRW?

Attempted the install today. On bank 2 exhaust bolt, during initial torque, the bolt clicked and became stuck. Tried backing out, but appears to be stuck fast. I do not want to damage the cam. I am positive it was not cross threaded as the bolt is fully seated. I am following the above post and service manual. Anyone have any issues with the NRW bolts? Anyone have any suggestions on backing this bolt out with damaging anything?

Best I can guess the bolt fractured. I assume heat or drilling it out are the best options. I am afraid to put a breaker bar on it and possibly damage the cam.

Help!

birdiee09 wrote

Attempted the install today. On bank 2 exhaust bolt, during initial torque, the bolt clicked and became stuck. Tried backing out, but appears to be stuck fast. I do not want to damage the cam. I am positive it was not cross threaded as the bolt is fully seated. I am following the above post and service manual. Anyone have any issues with the NRW bolts? Anyone have any suggestions on backing this bolt out with damaging anything?

Best I can guess the bolt fractured. I assume heat or drilling it out are the best options. I am afraid to put a breaker bar on it and possibly damage the cam.

Help!

I was able to back out the bolt with a little extra effort and a good crack. Inspected everything, put extra lube on it and redid final torque. All good now.

Following

Question about Step 5 for anyone with the experience - I've trying to move the cams per the instructions, with a 26mm wrench, but I find I can't move them much at all and the timing tool isn't sitting square. How much force am I supposed to be using?

PS I've already used the timing tool on Bank 2 & installed the covers/bolts without any issues.

CycloTron wrote

Question about Step 5 for anyone with the experience - I've trying to move the cams per the instructions, with a 26mm wrench, but I find I can't move them much at all and the timing tool isn't sitting square. How much force am I supposed to be using?

PS I've already used the timing tool on Bank 2 & installed the covers/bolts without any issues.

I'm trying to wrap my head around this part and get a solid understanding of this job before I begin.

Regarding Step 5 - If the engine is locked in TDC, how are you able to move the cam? ...and if you do move the cam, how does this not screw up the timing? I don't see any reference to moving the cam back to its original position after removing the cam lock tool.

I've read over the instructions and watched some videos but don't quite have a good grasp on this part.

You’ve got the crank locked at TDC. You’re going to ruin timing any way by removing the crank bolts in step six. Step five you’re basically working against the tensioner or the variator spring in the cam gear to line up the timing tool. You’re going to redo all that later.

spammysammich wrote

Step five you’re basically working against the tensioner or the variator spring in the cam gear to line up the timing tool. You’re going to redo all that later.

Ok, this makes sense regarding step 5 and that's what I suspected was the case (that moving the cam is working against the tensioner or spring). So when the cam lock tool is removed, does the cam rotate back into its original position? I couldn't get a clear understanding of this from the videos.

Would you mind expanding on "You're going to redo all that later"? From this guide it appears there isn't anything more to do, but your comment seems to suggest there is more to it, such as a re-timing procedure (unless this is what's accomplished at the end of step six). This is what I'm not clear on.

Thanks!

I just wanted to double check. In the M359 video he uses the special tool to keep the camshaft sprocket teeth aligned. Its not necessary to use it to replace the vanos covers since the sprocket never gets removed correct?

This tool below.

So you have the new NRW covers installed?

I'm in the middle of this job right now and I'm annoyed as the crank locking pin won't go in. There is a rigid cooling pipe in the way. I wonder how come that wasn't mentioned. Does it somehow not interfere for some people?

I did find a youtube video where someone doing another job ran into the same problem. You can see him removing the offending pipe here:
I wasn't counting on spilling coolant in this process.

Is there some magical way I'm not seeing to get around this issue? If not, I guess I'll pull that pipe... And I guess there are some annoying wires in the way of the 2nd bolt holding that pipe... Need to figure out how to get those unclipped...

rollsISU wrote

I'm in the middle of this job right now and I'm annoyed as the crank locking pin won't go in. There is a rigid cooling pipe in the way. I wonder how come that wasn't mentioned. Does it somehow not interfere for some people?

I did find a youtube video where someone doing another job ran into the same problem. You can see him removing the offending pipe here:

I wasn't counting on spilling coolant in this process.

Is there some magical way I'm not seeing to get around this issue? If not, I guess I'll pull that pipe... And I guess there are some annoying wires in the way of the 2nd bolt holding that pipe... Need to figure out how to get those unclipped...

Cut the tool just short enough to slide in. All the pin is doing is going through the holder into the locating notch on the crank. MAKE SURE YOU ARE ALIGNED and then very lightly tap it in. I cleaned out the holder because the fit is very tight.

Thanks for the tip. I have been very tempted to cut the tool but I rented it from NRW so I guess I wouldn't be able to return it

I'm seeking guidance from NRW.

Btw, I guess I got to these covers in time, but one is cracked! Aside from that, they look to be intact. 2009, 80k miles.

rollsISU wrote

Btw, I guess I got to these covers in time, but one is cracked! Aside from that, they look to be intact. 2009, 80k miles.

WOW you surely did get there in time. I wonder what caused that. I did mine (with carbahn covers sorry NRW) at 151k miles and it's a 2008. The covers had no cracks, but they were a bit brittle when I pulled them off.

A word of advice - get the NRW spark plug tubes. I could not get the others to work.

EDIT: AND stick a rag inside underneath the vanos gears so the plastic doesn't fall into the engine. Mine broke into a few pieces when I pulled them off and the smaller pieces would have surely fallen in there.

Thanks, appreciate the feedback! Fortunately I did get the NRW tubes. My plan is to grind the crank locking pin to get past the interference with the cooling pipe. I hope to do that tonight and complete this job.

I completed the job

I took a grinder to the key. I ground it just enough to not interfere. It was still kinda tight, could probably have gone further. Also, I did it for an orientation that would be difficult without removing the water pump pulley. I removed that, easy enough.

Also, in retrospect I learned the BMW service manual states two different locking keys, one for use with engine out and one for use with engine installed. The one for use with the engine installed is basically just a cut off version with a string on the end. Why none of the tool kits consider this, I don't know. Also, why not just always use the shorter one??? Seems that would be easy enough with engine out also. If I owned the kit I suppose I'd just cut it off, but it wasn't my tool and NRW said I could grind it so that's what I did.