2011 E93 Price check

From a VW dealer, has 52k miles, DCT, 3 owners, clean title, RB and TA not done, PPI shows minor oil leak and slight alignment issue (pulls left a little). Otherwise very clean. Listed for $27k. We’re close to a deal they’re offering $29k all in (including tax/title/shipping).

E93 prices seem a bit all over but this seems pretty solid to me.

Thoughts?

I would get a paint depth gauge and see if it had body work done without it being reported to insurance. If it pulls to the left, it may just be suspesion issue related to road damage or an accident. Take a good look under the car as well.

You don't mention color or options, and these may play a roll in overall value. E93's are in general $5k or more below a comparable E92 so you can use a similar car as a comparison. Also, a car dealer that is selling a car with alignment issues seems a bit odd. They have an alignment machine, so get it fixed before offering it for sale. My take on that would be a) they are not a very good dealer and don't want to put 30 minutes of rack work on a used car, or b) more likely there is some serious reason why they were unable to get the alignment right. As mentioned, could be a wreck that did structural damage. I would have it taken to a alignment shop you trust and have them take a very good look prior to signing anything, or have the dealer get it right prior to purchase.

baxter8279 wrote

From a VW dealer, has 52k miles, DCT, 3 owners, clean title, RB and TA not done, PPI shows minor oil leak and slight alignment issue (pulls left a little). Otherwise very clean. Listed for $27k. We’re close to a deal they’re offering $29k all in (including tax/title/shipping).

E93 prices seem a bit all over but this seems pretty solid to me.

Thoughts?

I just bought an E93 M3 for the same price with 77k miles. From my research the E93 is $5-10k cheaper than the other E9X. I really enjoy the engine sound with top down. It is heavier for sure but it is enjoyable in the canyon. Good choice and congrats. Picture taken by jmg at ACH.

Bat shows e93 to be low 20s. I just paid 17 for one with a lemon title and 67k miles. The funny thing is lemoned for the screen going blank randomly. One of the first things I did was replace with an android head unit. Yea I know it’s oem+ but my kids like the big screen.

The problem with these cars not at a bmw dealership is they are usually deferred maintenance. I had to change all the fluids. I had diff and transmission leak and cow bell sound. I also had the clogged drain port causing some water intrusion in the battery area. I replaced a couple of modules eBay style. I also have an alternator with missing bsd signal and potentially a bad dme/ when I tried to use Ista to run the transmission pump it wouldn’t.

All said and done with these older cars without history just expect to do a lot of deferred maintenance on it. I’m up to 6k in parts before the rod bearings. I’ll also need brakes soon. So prob all in, I’ll be close to 10k area.

Basically what I’m saying is you have to budget these catch up work when you buy these cars. Unless you get it from an enthusiast that’s been doing all the work with paperwork to prove, the total cost of ownership is more than the acquisition cost.

I bought mine in March 2008 E93 Jerez on extended Fox Red & DCT. 88k miles $21.5k

jhu321 wrote

Bat shows e93 to be low 20s. I just paid 17 for one with a lemon title and 67k miles. The funny thing is lemoned for the screen going blank randomly. One of the first things I did was replace with an android head unit. Yea I know it’s oem+ but my kids like the big screen.

The problem with these cars not at a bmw dealership is they are usually deferred maintenance. I had to change all the fluids. I had diff and transmission leak and cow bell sound. I also had the clogged drain port causing some water intrusion in the battery area. I replaced a couple of modules eBay style. I also have an alternator with missing bsd signal and potentially a bad dme/ when I tried to use Ista to run the transmission pump it wouldn’t.

All said and done with these older cars without history just expect to do a lot of deferred maintenance on it. I’m up to 6k in parts before the rod bearings. I’ll also need brakes soon. So prob all in, I’ll be close to 10k area.

Basically what I’m saying is you have to budget these catch up work when you buy these cars. Unless you get it from an enthusiast that’s been doing all the work with paperwork to prove, the total cost of ownership is more than the acquisition cost.

Quick question how did you fix the cowbell noise 🤔 ?

MakeM3sGreatagain wrote

Quick question how did you fix the cowbell noise 🤔 ?

Replace drive shaft center support bearing. I have another thread talking about it. Also there’s a great video on YouTube if you search. It’s pretty much universally accepted now the cowbell is center support bearings.

200 bucks in parts but lots of labor. You gotta drop exhaust and drive shaft.

Make sure you look for the weighted markings on your diff. Not all have them but if you do you have to make sure the weighted washer is on the right bolt else you’re gonna be dealing with driveline vibrations.

jhu321 wrote

Replace drive shaft center support bearing. I have another thread talking about it. Also there’s a great video on YouTube if you search. It’s pretty much universally accepted now the cowbell is center support bearings.

200 bucks in parts but lots of labor. You gotta drop exhaust and drive shaft.

Make sure you look for the weighted markings on your diff. Not all have them but if you do you have to make sure the weighted washer is on the right bolt else you’re gonna be dealing with driveline vibrations.

Thank you so much for the advice 🙏 much appreciated. I looked it up on YouTube as well and there alot of conflicting theories. How can I find your previous post?

MakeM3sGreatagain wrote

Thank you so much for the advice 🙏 much appreciated. I looked it up on YouTube as well and there alot of conflicting theories. How can I find your previous post?

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2183786

This is the thread. I replied and posted the YouTube video.

In there you’ll find even what it took me to do it myself


Bmw calls for replacing the guibo bolts and the diff bolts if you drop the shaft. They’re all stretch to yield bolts so you’re gonna spend like 100 bucks on nuts and bolts.

My offer to do it for people in Chicago still stands if anyone wants to make me up on it lol

Thank you so much. I will have to check it out and get it done. Super nice for you to offer help. That's pretty noble and generous. Have a great evening.