has anyone tried the alibaba mystery cf hoods? i know you get what you pay for, but at $500-ish shipped it's real tempting to try..
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kolosy wroteNo but very curious about this. Did you find one that is E90 fitment? My understanding is the E90 vs E92 hoods are different and I can’t recall seeing an E90 version.has anyone tried the alibaba mystery cf hoods? i know you get what you pay for, but at $500-ish shipped it's real tempting to try..
Eric335 wroteHawk DTC-70 and DTC-60 pads are on FCP Euro. I bought these for that reason. They did just fine on track. I would have probably preferred a 60 front, but they were out of stock at the time so I have 70/60 right now. Castrol SRF is also available on FCP Euro. You will be just fine with these on your track day. Just make sure you flush all of the old brake fluid out.Hey track gurus! Rookie question. I have done a TON of searching but a lot of the information out there is old (products have changed names / compounds) and may no longer be accurate, or I found so many conflicting suggestions, so wanted to get the 2025 "latest".
I am taking my E92 M3 to it's first HPDE at NJMP Thunderbolt track in a few weeks (6/15), and is my 2nd time on track (first was in a G80). I have fully stock brakes, rotors, and pads. I am planning to get a fresh Motul 600 brake line flush at the least. I am also debating getting a set of either dedicated track pads, or an 'in-betweener' brake pad that can do both light track duty + street. Some people have suggested I could stick with OEM pads for my first few track days but it sounds like I run the risk of being unable to fully participate if I overheat them. I have mentally acquiesced to having to swap pads between street/track and re-bed them each time but if you think overkill for my usage, let me know.
If I wanted to get a dedicated track pad, is EBC Bluestuff still a popular/respectable choice? (and if so, it would be these two on FCP right? Fronts and rears ).
I live in NYC and use the car only on weekends and *hope* to get to the track 3-4 times per year if i can (Lime Rock, NJ Motorsports Park, Monticello, Thompson). My goal is to pump that number up if I can get a handle on consumables / logistics.
pirategenes wroteThe cheap CF hoods are usually an exterior layer of carbon backed by fiberglass chop mat and then a thick layer of gel coat to hide the chop mat. Then the resin is a cheap polyester resin because it is chop mat. These hoods usually turn out to be much heavier than the OE aluminum hood.No but very curious about this. Did you find one that is E90 fitment? My understanding is the E90 vs E92 hoods are different and I can’t recall seeing an E90 version.
Might be a good idea if your hood is F'd and you need a cheap on to get by.
F4rmost wroteThe DTC 70 is pretty on/off and works better on Hoosiers/slicks IMO. Thats what I run front and rear. The DTC60/30 combo is great for street tires, especially if you can go the FCP route. I would buy two sets of front to always have a spare and just replace them when you get down to 25% pad left. The rear pads last forever on these cars.Hawk DTC-70 and DTC-60 pads are on FCP Euro. I bought these for that reason. They did just fine on track. I would have probably preferred a 60 front, but they were out of stock at the time so I have 70/60 right now. Castrol SRF is also available on FCP Euro. You will be just fine with these on your track day. Just make sure you flush all of the old brake fluid out.
turbo_joe wroteI wish they had 60 fronts in stock when I ordered. I might go back and check to see if they have any. Thanks for the info!The DTC 70 is pretty on/off and works better on Hoosiers/slicks IMO. Thats what I run front and rear. The DTC60/30 combo is great for street tires, especially if you can go the FCP route. I would buy two sets of front to always have a spare and just replace them when you get down to 25% pad left. The rear pads last forever on these cars.
EDIT: It still says backordered with no ETA for the 60's on the front.
F4rmost wroteContact Hawk directly or you can check Summit Racing, they are typically the cheapest everyday.I wish they had 60 fronts in stock when I ordered. I might go back and check to see if they have any. Thanks for the info!
EDIT: It still says backordered with no ETA for the 60's on the front.
Rubin
former 240 s14 wroteI'm trying to get the whole lifetime warranty deal with FCP.Contact Hawk directly or you can check Summit Racing, they are typically the cheapest everyday.
Rubin
I'm trying not to go broke LOL
I can 100% beat hawk direct or Summit on Hawk pricing if you want something that FCP doesnt carry
F4rmost wroteThe Cobalt XR2 pads are a solid alternative to Hawk DTC-60s. On my OEM setup, I ran XR2s up front and XR3s in the rear. Roughly equivalent to a Hawk DTC-60/DTC-30 combination.I wish they had 60 fronts in stock when I ordered. I might go back and check to see if they have any. Thanks for the info!
EDIT: It still says backordered with no ETA for the 60's on the front.
One setup I wish I could have tested is Winmax: W5s up front and W3s in the rear would make a great street/track combo in theory.
Also, doesn't bimmerworld stock the DTC-60s?
omgzirra_exe wroteUsually they do.
Also, doesn't bimmerworld stock the DTC-60s?
Eric335 wroteJust got back from day 1 of the NJ BMWCCA 2-day HPDE at Thunder in my mostly stock E92 M3, and I was just fine with some 600 fluid and Stoptech Sport pads, which in fact had one prior HPDE on them as well - 7 years ago(!). Full disclosure - I did also have stainless brake lines installed last year, but otherwise I am on stock brakes.Hey track gurus! Rookie question. I have done a TON of searching but a lot of the information out there is old (products have changed names / compounds) and may no longer be accurate, or I found so many conflicting suggestions, so wanted to get the 2025 "latest".
I am taking my E92 M3 to it's first HPDE at NJMP Thunderbolt track in a few weeks (6/15), and is my 2nd time on track (first was in a G80). I have fully stock brakes, rotors, and pads. I am planning to get a fresh Motul 600 brake line flush at the least. I am also debating getting a set of either dedicated track pads, or an 'in-betweener' brake pad that can do both light track duty + street. Some people have suggested I could stick with OEM pads for my first few track days but it sounds like I run the risk of being unable to fully participate if I overheat them. I have mentally acquiesced to having to swap pads between street/track and re-bed them each time but if you think overkill for my usage, let me know.
If I wanted to get a dedicated track pad, is EBC Bluestuff still a popular/respectable choice? (and if so, it would be these two on FCP right? Fronts and rears ).
I live in NYC and use the car only on weekends and *hope* to get to the track 3-4 times per year if i can (Lime Rock, NJ Motorsports Park, Monticello, Thompson). My goal is to pump that number up if I can get a handle on consumables / logistics.
And though I'm certainly not setting any track records nor aiming to, I was catching up to or passing many of the cars in my run group (lower run group, to be fair) and was into my ABS a decent amount, so I think I was giving the brakes a decent workout. With that, the brakes held up great with no fade, and the pedal never got soft towards the end of the day.
I run the Stoptechs year round and they have been a good "compromise" pad if you don't want to have to do a lot of swapping around, and especially if you're new to the track. After 7 years, 17k miles, and 2 HPDE's they still have a decent amount of life left!
Redd wroteFollowing my HPDE (on OEM staggered setup - 265/245), and based on all the threads here, I'm thinking about getting a square 18x10 setup w/275's, and I'm trying to understand how different the front end of the car will be with it.Are you staggered or square? Going square is a great way to dial out understeer. The front end is just sharper and the rear just wants to rotate more willingly (but not snap into oversteer).
If you don't want to invest then you can play with more front toe out, thicker sways at the rear or more damping rear/less damping front. But the effects won't be as noticeable as going square.
Pleased to read it doesn't result in snap oversteer, but how much sharper does it make the car? I believe I have decent car control, trail braking technique, etc. but I don't want to be on a knife edge every lap or feel like one small bad input is going to pitch me into the weeds. Does it dramatically change the handling behavior, or is it just a slight sharpening?
Thanks for any feedback!
PACarGuy wroteI got my car with 275 squares so I can’t compare to your baseline, but the car is not twitchy at all. I think you’ll be fine.Following my HPDE, and based on all the threads here, I'm thinking about getting a square 18x10 setup w/275's, and I'm trying to understand how different the front end of the car will be with it.
Pleased to read it doesn't result in snap oversteer, but how much sharper does it make the car? I believe I have decent car control, trail braking technique, etc. but I don't want to be on a knife edge every lap or feel like one small bad input is going to pitch me into the weeds. Does it dramatically change the handling behavior, or is it just a slight sharpening?
Thanks for any feedback!
PACarGuy wroteMost of your concerns are all alignment based more than it is tire sizing.Following my HPDE (on OEM staggered setup - 265/245), and based on all the threads here, I'm thinking about getting a square 18x10 setup w/275's, and I'm trying to understand how different the front end of the car will be with it.
Pleased to read it doesn't result in snap oversteer, but how much sharper does it make the car? I believe I have decent car control, trail braking technique, etc. but I don't want to be on a knife edge every lap or feel like one small bad input is going to pitch me into the weeds. Does it dramatically change the handling behavior, or is it just a slight sharpening?
Thanks for any feedback!
but if there ever was a sweet spot for the E9X chassis, 18x10 w/ 275/35/18 SQ are like my baseline standard.
you will notice a bit better turn in response with that set up, but you will also be more prone to a bit more oversteer behavior due to the SQ set up.
also you'd have to really be driving beyond the limits of the car to make it snap oversteer or cause it to spin out in general. i find spinning out the E9X chassis really hard, unless I'm purposely trying to.
omgzirra_exe wroteThanks for the confirmation.Most of your concerns are all alignment based more than it is tire sizing.
but if there ever was a sweet spot for the E9X chassis, 18x10 w/ 275/35/18 SQ are like my baseline standard.
you will notice a bit better turn in response with that set up, but you will also be more prone to a bit more oversteer behavior due to the SQ set up.
also you'd have to really be driving beyond the limits of the car to make it snap oversteer or cause it to spin out in general. i find spinning out the E9X chassis really hard, unless I'm purposely trying to.
Regarding alignment, I was running stock alignment w/front camber at max the OEM setup allows, but was thinking about getting some front camber plates to get to -2.5/3 camber to minimize edge wear.
PACarGuy wrotemmm you should be okay with stock top hat with the pin removed. if you're not using 140-240tw tires.Thanks for the confirmation.
Regarding alignment, I was running stock alignment w/front camber at max the OEM setup allows, but was thinking about getting some front camber plates to get to -2.5/3 camber to minimize edge wear.
But if you are, then yeah, you'd probably want way more camber than -3.
omgzirra_exe wroteWell, I'm thinking about some 200tw "endurance" tires. But how much negative camber do you think is right, and what additional impact does that have?mmm you should be okay with stock top hat with the pin removed. if you're not using 140-240tw tires.
But if you are, then yeah, you'd probably want way more camber than -3.
PACarGuy wrotewhen i had 275/35/18 V730s i had -3.3 F and -2.5 RWell, I'm thinking about some 200tw "endurance" tires. But how much negative camber do you think is right, and what additional impact does that have?
omgzirra_exe wroteWhat toe were you running? Did you have any tramlining?when i had 275/35/18 V730s i had -3.3 F and -2.5 R
PACarGuy wrote0 tie front just a bit toe in the rear.What toe were you running? Did you have any tramlining?
1/8th inch or something toe in.
I’m always tramlining 😂
just got mine done, we'll see how this rides. 1/16th out in the front, 1/8th in in the rear.