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07-21-2026LAST POST
RalliartRsX wrote
Probably improper bedding of pads

Drive through it a few sessions and it will clear itself up once some repeated heat gets into then system
I found the issue to remain even after 3 different 20-minute track sessions, which I thought would've cleared up any bed-in issues with these Hawk DTC-60s and new Girodisc front rotors (stock rear rotors still). I actually just posted a new thread on this issue, if anyone wants to see my awful novice lap at NJMP & hear my brake issues :thumsup: : https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=32194573#post32194573
kolosy wrote
Love that that’s a thing for the E60s now. I think mine was the test mule for making that parameter change lol.
Yeah I read through that entire thread with the Dutch tuner, glad it's a budget alternative to the $2.5k+ for OE injectors.
chocstraw wrote
Also, rejecting this Motorad unit, I'm not thrilled with the socket marks and whatever method of securing the nut they use. It appears to be swaged but it's not worth it to me to risk having to redo this
Damn...they scratched your thermostat and you're going to return it? :confused2
kolosy wrote
Love that that’s a thing for the E60s now. I think mine was the test mule for making that parameter change lol.
What parameters do you need to change? I want to replace the injectors preventatively on my E60 M5 6MT.
Disgustipated wrote
What parameters do you need to change? I want to replace the injectors preventatively on my E60 M5 6MT.
See here — https://www.m5board.com/threads/bosch-fuel-injectors.616415/
I don’t remember I think it’s flow rate or something that needed adjusting. It does require flashing the dme, but there are guys on that thread that’ll do it for you.
Was gonna slap in some pads and send it on Monday. Then saw this. Womp womp. Guess I gotta wait for the new ones.
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kolosy wrote
Was gonna slap in some pads and send it on Monday. Then saw this. Womp womp. Guess I gotta wait for the new ones.
Definitely the right decision. Just too many cracks to the OD and ID. The last thing you want to encounter is an exploding rotor(s). However, it does look like you did extract the absolute max life from that rotor ring (slots worn flat)! Is that a Paragon rotor ring from their PA025 brake kit?
Very seriously contemplating selling my M3. Certainly not a track car, but some reasonably solid upgrades towards one if that's the direction the next owner wanted to take it. Figured this group might know someone interested. If it doesn't sell as is there will be separate FS threads for the various pieces.
M3SQRD wrote
Definitely the right decision. Just too many cracks to the OD and ID. The last thing you want to encounter is an exploding rotor(s). However, it does look like you did extract the absolute max life from that rotor ring (slots worn flat)! Is that a Paragon rotor ring from their PA025 brake kit?
Basically. It’s from the PA035 kit, 370x36. Definitely has a nice lip on it, to go with the missing slots.
I will say, the one time I ran Ferodos (ds3.11) I think did the most damage. I’ve been using their R5s instead and they’re a lot easier on the rotor.
kolosy wrote
Basically. It’s from the PA035 kit, 370x36. Definitely has a nice lip on it, to go with the missing slots.
I will say, the one time I ran Ferodos (ds3.11) I think did the most damage. I’ve been using their R5s instead and they’re a lot easier on the rotor.
Oops…correct, the PA035 is for the front. Thanks for the correction. PA025 is their rear kit.

Their race pads are manufactured from Winmax, a Japanese brake pad manufacturer. I personally am not a fan of Ferodo pads. My AP Racing e46 M3 brake kit came with Ferodo pads in 2004. I couldn’t wait to replace them with Hawk DTC70 or CT XP18 (no longer an option but still available from G-Loc). Switched to PFC race compounds in 2005 and they have been my first choice since then for my AP Racing and PFC brake kits.
M3SQRD wrote
Oops…correct, the PA035 is for the front. Thanks for the correction. PA025 is their rear kit.

Their race pads are manufactured from Winmax, a Japanese brake pad manufacturer. I personally am not a fan of Ferodo pads. My AP Racing e46 M3 brake kit came with Ferodo pads in 2004. I couldn’t wait to replace them with Hawk DTC70 or CT XP18 (no longer an option but still available from G-Loc). Switched to PFC race compounds in 2005 and they have been my first choice since then for my AP Racing and PFC brake kits.
After many years of badgering from a local track buddy, I bought a set of hawks to try out, but I really do like the winmaxes. They last about the same as my carbotechs did when I ran house and cost $250 per set. And they perform very well. Super linear, easily get into abs with the Bridgestones.
e92BMW///M3 wrote
Very seriously contemplating selling my M3. Certainly not a track car, but some reasonably solid upgrades towards one if that's the direction the next owner wanted to take it. Figured this group might know someone interested. If it doesn't sell as is there will be separate FS threads for the various pieces.
Specs on car?
In conversation with Tom Schirmer about a build. More to follow, likely lengthy process. As things progress I may start a new Thread for the Build.

For now, open season to tell me why not to pursue it.
Bimmer Barney wrote
In conversation with Tom Schirmer about a build. More to follow, likely lengthy process. As things progress I may start a new Thread for the Build.

For now, open season to tell me why not to pursue it.
buy mine and save some time!
Sealed some gaps around the main heat exchanger after power steering and condensers were deleted. Easier than expected.
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Bimmer Barney wrote
Specs on car?
Sorry about that, realize my signature link doesn’t show up on mobile. Link to the FS below. Le Mans, 69k miles, RB done, AP 9660, Ohlins Dedicated Track, Vorahlag plates, SPL links, Eventuri plenum/intake, BBS RI-A, Core4 front hubs, etc.

Sale Thread
roastbeef wrote
Sealed some gaps around the main heat exchanger after power steering and condensers were deleted. Easier than expected.
So confused. So now you’re ADDING weight to the car? :lol:
okusa wrote
So confused. So now you’re ADDING weight to the car? :lol:
Roastbeef: “hi babe, I need to order $500 of titanium bolts to offset the 250 grams I added sealing my radiator”

Mrs beef:
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DRLane wrote
Roastbeef: “hi babe, I need to order $500 of titanium bolts to offset the 250 grams I added sealing my radiator”

Mrs beef:
“Babe, I need this to put the car back together.”

The titanium oil cooler bolts alone offset the weight penalty of this sealant though. ;)
kolosy wrote
buy mine and save some time!
Definitely nice and we could probably swap!
I’ve definitely considered continuing to build mine but to walk out to the garage and see that I own a true schirmer, get to drive it on track and off, would be a different thing.
Bimmer Barney wrote
Definitely nice and we could probably swap!
I’ve definitely considered continuing to build mine but to walk out to the garage and see that I own a true schirmer, get to drive it on track and off, would be a different thing.
What would they be doing that is proprietary and can only be done at their facility?
Kinda pointless to ship a car there just to bolt on some parts and some e88’s.
I saw a video of a schirmer e92 up on a lift once and saw what appeared to be a bladed swaybar and some other neat stuff, but the video was taken down shortly thereafter.
roastbeef wrote
What would they be doing that is proprietary and can only be done at their facility?
Kinda pointless to ship a car there just to bolt on some parts and some e88’s.
I saw a video of a schirmer e92 up on a lift once and saw what appeared to be a bladed swaybar and some other neat stuff, but the video was taken down shortly thereafter.
I agree. There are US based shops that can build an e9x M race or track car that’s equivalent to a Schirmer build. Some are capable of designing and building trick custom suspension setups superior to what Schirmer builds. It all comes down to the budget. Additionally, there’s no performance advantage to having Schirmer hang their parts or other available OTS parts for you.

Bladed anti-sway bars are adjustable by the driver. Another item US based shops can add to a race or track build.