Removing exhaust tips, rivetS?

Do the rivets just pop off of the 4 tips?

yes, four rivets per tip. Drill them out and twist the tips off.

alright thanks man

awells93 wrote

alright thanks man

Just keep in mind we're supposed to use 'full stainless steel' rivets (per SOCAL), and they alone run $30 (plus rivet gun, or another $30).

I asked our friend SOCAL if we could use aluminum, since the rivets' only job is to hold tips in place (zero shear force, etc), but he never replied. Maybe somebody else can answer that. I want to remove the tips before powdercoating my muffler for extra safety, but not if it costs $60. Take care.

elp_jc wrote

Just keep in mind we're supposed to use 'full stainless steel' rivets (per SOCAL), and they alone run $30 (plus rivet gun, or another $30).

I asked our friend SOCAL if we could use aluminum, since the rivets' only job is to hold tips in place (zero shear force, etc), but he never replied. Maybe somebody else can answer that. I want to remove the tips before powdercoating my muffler for extra safety, but not if it costs $60. Take care.

Not quite... Check out McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com). I don't have the size exactly but made a good guess and found SS rivets for $12/100. I bet aluminum ones would be just fine as well. Aluminum ones will run about 25% as much. They also have rivet tools for $25. We here in So Cal can get next day UPS ground shipment from them.

You might be able to find them in quantities of less than 100 in a local specialty hardware store as well. Either way <<<<<< aftermarket exhaust.

swamp2 wrote

I don't have the size exactly but made a good guess and found SS rivets for $12/100.

Hey man, that's exactly the place SOCAL suggested. In fact, the correct rivet he used was this one: 97550A210. And the tool he recommended was this one: 6659A21.

I believe he has the right rivet dimension, but I was hoping for a less expensive alternative. If you found one that fits properly, like those 100 for $12, can you please post the part number? Check out the above number for correct size. Thx.

I just replaced my tips with black BMW chrome tip and cost me a total of $5 bucks

So i bought a revit gun at home depot for $10 bucks then bought the revits (aluminum) for $5 bucks

Its only a bitch when taking the revits out cause ur going to end up using different size of drill bits

Once i was done i returned the revit gun refund of $10 bucks well i really have no use for them so returned it.

Sean05 wrote

I just replaced my tips with black BMW chrome tip and cost me a total of $5 bucks

So i bought a revit gun at home depot for $10 bucks then bought the revits (aluminum) for $5 bucks

Its only a bitch when taking the revits out cause ur going to end up using different size of drill bits

Once i was done i returned the revit gun refund of $10 bucks well i really have no use for them so returned it.

"Revit": http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?siteID=123112&id=3781831. I don't think you bought these at Home Depot. That's what I use at work and it's more like $5-6k.

elp_jc wrote

I asked our friend SOCAL if we could use aluminum, since the rivets' only job is to hold tips in place (zero shear force, etc), but he never replied. Maybe somebody else can answer that. I want to remove the tips before powdercoating my muffler for extra safety, but not if it costs $60.

Stainless is the correct rivet material for stainless, as any dissimilar metals have some galvanic reaction (meaning they corrode with exposure to moisture) over time. For "harsh environments" subject to moisture there should be no more than 0.15 difference between the metals' anodic index (see following chart). For stainlesss and aluminum it is aobut 0.25 - 0.40, depending on the aluminum composition. In the real world, for this non-critical installation, it's not a big deal, but I would probably still pay a few bucks more and get the sst myself. The other option is to go with a factory painted rivet which prevents the metals from coming in direct contact (I know you can buy white ones).

GregW / Oregon wrote

Stainless is the correct rivet material for stainless, as any dissimilar metals have some galvanic reaction (meaning they corrode with exposure to moisture) over time. For "harsh environments" subject to moisture there should be no more than 0.15 difference between the metals' anodic index (see following chart). For stainlesss and aluminum it is aobut 0.25 - 0.40, depending on the aluminum composition. In the real world, for this non-critical installation, it's not a big deal, but I would probably still pay a few bucks more and get the sst myself. The other option is to go with a factory painted rivet which prevents the metals from coming in direct contact (I know you can buy white ones).

i only use gold rivets

0.00 anodic index baby!

Can you replace the tips without taking off the exhaust?

I am wondering too

I don't think there is a way to drill out the rivets without taking the exhaust off the car. There are 2 rivets within easy access from below, but the other 2 rivets between the exhaust and the heat-shield are impossible to get at. There is no way of squeezing a drill in there!

I read this DIY about removing the exhaust, it is a 90 minute job. it seems to be the only way.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299777

If anyone else has a way to remove the tips without removing the exhaust, I am definitely interested.

E93_Rzr wrote

I don't think there is a way to drill out the rivets without taking the exhaust off the car. There are 2 rivets within easy access from below, but the other 2 rivets between the exhaust and the heat-shield are impossible to get at. There is no way of squeezing a drill in there!

I read this DIY about removing the exhaust, it is a 90 minute job. it seems to be the only way.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299777

If anyone else has a way to remove the tips without removing the exhaust, I am definitely interested.

I haven't tried this, but once you drill out the accessible side maybe you could just keeip drilling through the pipe and through the other side:? Centering on the far rivet from inside would be tough, though.

lvwirelessguy wrote

Can you replace the tips without taking off the exhaust?

No

Sean05 wrote

No

I just changed mine and would definitely say you can't...will post some pics later.

Best solution is to think big and just switch out the crappy stock unit, IMO.

kmarei wrote

i only use gold rivets

0.00 anodic index baby!

That only make the delta higher?

GregW / Oregon wrote

That only make sthe delta higher?

I was joking
I was mocking the whole bling mentality, you know like gold teeth etc

NOT TRUE.. aluminum will do just fine just make sure you have the correct size then your OK....

elp_jc wrote

Just keep in mind we're supposed to use 'full stainless steel' rivets (per SOCAL), and they alone run $30 (plus rivet gun, or another $30).

I asked our friend SOCAL if we could use aluminum, since the rivets' only job is to hold tips in place (zero shear force, etc), but he never replied. Maybe somebody else can answer that. I want to remove the tips before powdercoating my muffler for extra safety, but not if it costs $60. Take care.

I used a small air angle dill and got the rivets out without taking off the bumper.

ChrisK wrote

I used a small air angle dill and got the rivets out without taking off the bumper.

but did you remove the exhaust?
any pics of the tool or your diy?
and how did you install the tips back on?