[mattoak]

I'm about to replace my rear subframe, differential, trailing arm, and control arm bushings on my 2006 E90 325 with 180k miles.

I don't mind buying a tool set to make this job easier, but I see that ECS tuning has 5 options, listed below. Will any one of these accomplish all the bushings I'm trying to replace, or do I need to suck it up and make / buy a second? I assume the Schwaben should be purchased for the subframe and diff bushings, but then that leaves the RTAB and LCAB. Also considering the UCAB if one of the tools for the other two also does those?

Anyone have any knowledge of these?

Schwaben Subframe & Differential Bushing Tool Set
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
Says it does subframe and diff bushings, but what about the trailing and control arms?

Trailing Arm Bushing Tool Set
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800101~bat/
I assume it does the trailing arm bushings...?

Trailing Arm Inner Bushing Tool - Master Set
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800137~bav/
Why does this say Inner...does it ONLY do the inner TABs? That seems silly if it doesn't do them both, but that's what the tool below is for right?

Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Bavarian Autosport
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800047~bav/
I assume this does the trailing arm bushings, but how is it different than the other kit that is more than twice the price?

Heavy Duty Control Arm Bushing Remover / Installer
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800078~bav/
I assume this is only for lower control arms...

[TriumphTim]

I bought and used this set below recently to replace everything except the diff bushing and subframe bushings on my 2008 328ix. It did all the various suspension bushings inner and outer.

I don't have experience with replacing the diff or subframe bushings but I *think* this set could be rigged up to do them with a trip to the hardware store/easy fab work for less than another expensive set.

Hope this helps...


Tool - Trailing Arm Inner Bushing Tool - Master Set - Bavarian Autosport
Makes installing trailing arm bushing installation much easier.
Mfg Part #
B8800137

[PourBoi-Jay]

^^This one will work best for the RTAB and Inner Lower CA Bushing.

I bought this eBay tool for the subframe bushing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E82-E90....m46890.l49292

[mattoak]

I ended up buying the Schwaben tool from ECS, and this bushing tool from eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Differentia...53.m1438.l2649

Which was actually this item: FreeTec Silent Bearing Puller Kit Dent Puller Set Compatible for BMW
Drop shipped directly from Amazon. At least I paid less on ebay than what its listed on amazon for!

The ebay tool set just arrived today. Waiting on parts from FCP/ECS, but I will report back (maybe in a new thread) how they work out. For $65, I figured I'd take a gamble and hope it makes my life $65 worth less frustrating.

[chazzz]

Originally Posted by mattoak

I ended up buying the Schwaben tool from ECS, and this bushing tool from eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Differentia...53.m1438.l2649

Which was actually this item: FreeTec Silent Bearing Puller Kit Dent Puller Set Compatible for BMW
Drop shipped directly from Amazon. At least I paid less on ebay than what its listed on amazon for!

The ebay tool set just arrived today. Waiting on parts from FCP/ECS, but I will report back (maybe in a new thread) how they work out. For $65, I figured I'd take a gamble and hope it makes my life $65 worth less frustrating.

Did the $65 tool work for you? Would love to hear this from you. I am going to work on my son's E90 rear bushings. I didn't want to spend $200 for Bavarian Trailing Arm Bushing tool- for a ONE TIME use. I don't mind $65... so please let me know. Thanks.

[335xi_full_throttle]

Originally Posted by chazzz

Did the $65 tool work for you? Would love to hear this from you. I am going to work on my son's E90 rear bushings. I didn't want to spend $200 for Bavarian Trailing Arm Bushing tool- for a ONE TIME use. I don't mind $65... so please let me know. Thanks.

I found that the tool used in this thread worked perfectly for the subframe bushings.


best? and cheapest? M3 subframe bushing DIY tool https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=976683

[mweisdorfer]

You can make your own tools with black pipe, grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers

You just need to know the diameters of pipe you need. Once you take the subframe out of the car, you can measure out what you need.

[olympiad04]

Hey,

I'm about to change out the inner and outer bushings. How did the tool from ebay work? I'm debating whether to order the one from ECS or try the ebay/amazon route.

Originally Posted by mattoak

I ended up buying the Schwaben tool from ECS, and this bushing tool from eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Differentia...53.m1438.l2649

Which was actually this item: FreeTec Silent Bearing Puller Kit Dent Puller Set Compatible for BMW
Drop shipped directly from Amazon. At least I paid less on ebay than what its listed on amazon for!

The ebay tool set just arrived today. Waiting on parts from FCP/ECS, but I will report back (maybe in a new thread) how they work out. For $65, I figured I'd take a gamble and hope it makes my life $65 worth less frustrating.

[ironduke2010]

also interested. at some point soon (hopefully) after i clean things up enough to hit the inner and outer RTAB's, i will try the make-your-own method that mweisdorfer suggests. my local hardware store has a huge selection of grade 8 bolt and washer sizes, and i have some thrust bearings from amazon. if i can find the right sized pipe(s)/sockets/hole saw/whatever, i feel like i should be able to get something to work (again, hopefully).

i am only semi dropping the subframe (for subframe bushing inserts), so i might gain a little room, but obviously not as much as if i fully removed the subframe. if i hear the amazon kit works (by having the right cup sizes) then i might just get it to try.

[mattoak]

In my experience, fully dropping the subframe (rear or front) saves more headaches than trying to get more room. I never would have gotten the bushings out if I didn’t fully remove it from the car. Honestly don’t know how people manage to use the tool by only dropping it. Those things are in there TIGHT, and it takes some leverage and moving around, etc. to get them out.

The specific tool for the main subframe bushings worked awesome, but it’s only useful for the large, main subframe bushings. That’s all it was made for, but worth the money to change them. You really have to wrench on the nut and I was worried I was going to break it, but it did hold and got things out. Lube will help a lot.

The bushing kit I bought worked to remove everything else, however you’ll have to get creative on reinstalling the RTAB and/or the rear lower control arm bushing. I forget which, but one was a huge PITA and the other was tough, but not as bad. Maybe I just had the method down by that time. When you start pressing them in, the outer sleeve that is slotted wants to open up on the far end that is supposed to be pressed into the hole, making it nearly impossible to press in. I used the hose clamp method. Putting heavy duty hose clamps around it, as many as I could fit, and wrenching them as tight as possible to keep the open end together and prevent it from spreading as I slowly pressed the bushing. Once I got it in a few millimeters, I would take the nearest clamp off and keep slowly working. Eventually got them all in, but it was a headache. My recommendation would be to buy the heaviest duty, most robust clamps you can find ahead of time. Don't just use the regular hardware store ones. It will make your life way easier!

[olympiad04]

Well I changed 8 bushing a couple days ago. I ended up ordering the Bavarian tool from ECS since they had it on sale and I got 5% back from my credit card.

I was able to change the outer RTAB and control arm bushing easily. First one took maybe 30 minutes. (Took a bit to learn the tool) Other 3 were done in an hour. With corrosion and 160k miles they came out easy. I just pre sprayed them with PB blaster.

The inner control bushing and RTAB on the subframe were more challenging. The right driver side I had to remove the 3 rubber hangers for the exhaust. Didn't have to remove the metal center support under the exhaust. Couldn't get the tools in the spot or pull out the bolt for the control arm with it on.

For the inner RTAB tools worked fine.

For the inner control arm bushings on the subframe. I had to find a larger pull sleeve. Luckily, I found something lying around I was able to use otherwise I was going to order the kit off of amazon with a large size. I also had to improvise something so the pull sleeve aligned straight on the control arm when removing and install. A screw head ended up working.

Wish they would have added one larger sleeve for the inner control arm bushing. Which is probably in the master kit, but that tool is way more.

Got the alignment done and now the car drives and feels way better. Feels solid turning again and way better over bumps. I'll need to do the 4 large subframe bushings in the future.

TLDR
Basic Bavarian tool worked well to change 6 of 8 bushings I was changing. Need 1 larger sleeve to pull the inner CA bushing into and was able to do all 8. After watching videos on lowering the subframe I would have done that route cause I saw at least 2 of my subframe bushing should be replaced soon. Rear differential bushings looked ok.

[ironduke2010]

I ended up getting the "Master Set" tool after using my home made tool using grade 8 bolts and hole saws for popping the bushings out of the toe arm (replacing with monoball). the RTAB (inners and outers) are just too obstructed to get anything home made in position without committing to some more machining that i was willing and able to do.

the Master Set has a "notch" in the cup and cap that just barely allows for obstructions like the brake lines. the cap for the pull cup is also threaded, and a removable cap, which allows for some flexibility in getting everything into place.

i had to also buy a large and very heavy c-frame press to get the lower, inner control arm bushings (the bigger ones) out, since i had to cut off the eccentric bolts (boy were those things massively seized with solidified salt!). i used the cups from the Master Set though (and had to modifly slightly to make sure the whole assembly didn't fall on my face when starting to tighten!)

the Master Set is only for bushings though. none of the cups fit that monoball on the knuckle for the (outer) lower control arm (as far as i could tell), so i used one of the hole saws i had previously modified there, which fit great.

i am now very deep into rust remediation, so have not put anything back in yet. so much rust. i am hopeful installation will go smoothly though.

[olympiad04]

When I first got the car back in 2018 my eccentric bolts were frozen too. When I went to the alignment shop, they wouldn't touch it. I had to cut them off. Mine made about 6 loud pops as I was turning the wrench to get the large bushings out.

I wish I bought the tool and did this sooner as I as my right rear tire is almost garbage due to the excessive wear on the edge. I think I can start to see the threads. With the alignment now I should be riding back on the middle of the tire. that one bushing was so bad.

Did you do the 4 large sub frame bushings or the rear differential bushings?

[ironduke2010]

Originally Posted by olympiad04

When I first got the car back in 2018 my eccentric bolts were frozen too. When I went to the alignment shop, they wouldn't touch it. I had to cut them off. Mine made about 6 loud pops as I was turning the wrench to get the large bushings out.

I wish I bought the tool and did this sooner as I as my right rear tire is almost garbage due to the excessive wear on the edge. I think I can start to see the threads. With the alignment now I should be riding back on the middle of the tire. that one bushing was so bad.

Did you do the 4 large sub frame bushings or the rear differential bushings?

I have subframe inserts that were part of my original plan before I took this massive detour into rust remediation. My thought was to not remove the subframe, and only drop it enough to do the inserts. While I have not yet installed them yet, I think i have enough clearance using just the drop method found on the interwebs for inserts.

The irony is, I am now about 95% of the way to removing the subframe anyway. Just the short axles, brake lines and e-brake cables remain! While it can be argued that I should just do it at this point, I am already so so far deeper than my original plan of just installing bilstein b14’s and the inserts. After I finish all the “while I’m at it” add on work in the back, I still have the front to do, so I am resisting any more (including the diff bushings, which I had never planned to do)!

[ironduke2010]

And now Olympiad has me thinking about the diff bushings.

ChatGPT found this tool: https://pmdproducts.com/products/bushing-tool-bmw-e90

I can’t tell from the pic, but it looks like it just might be able to do everything, and maybe more, than the more expensive tools.

[mattoak]

Originally Posted by ironduke2010

And now Olympiad has me thinking about the diff bushings.

ChatGPT found this tool: https://pmdproducts.com/products/bushing-tool-bmw-e90

I can’t tell from the pic, but it looks like it just might be able to do everything, and maybe more, than the more expensive tools.

Almost positive that's the same exact kit as the Schwaben one, just different color metal and plastic box.

[mattoak]

Originally Posted by olympiad04

Well I changed 8 bushing a couple days ago. I ended up ordering the Bavarian tool from ECS since they had it on sale and I got 5% back from my credit card.

I was able to change the outer RTAB and control arm bushing easily. First one took maybe 30 minutes. (Took a bit to learn the tool) Other 3 were done in an hour. With corrosion and 160k miles they came out easy. I just pre sprayed them with PB blaster.

The inner control bushing and RTAB on the subframe were more challenging. The right driver side I had to remove the 3 rubber hangers for the exhaust. Didn't have to remove the metal center support under the exhaust. Couldn't get the tools in the spot or pull out the bolt for the control arm with it on.

For the inner RTAB tools worked fine.

For the inner control arm bushings on the subframe. I had to find a larger pull sleeve. Luckily, I found something lying around I was able to use otherwise I was going to order the kit off of amazon with a large size. I also had to improvise something so the pull sleeve aligned straight on the control arm when removing and install. A screw head ended up working.

Wish they would have added one larger sleeve for the inner control arm bushing. Which is probably in the master kit, but that tool is way more.

Got the alignment done and now the car drives and feels way better. Feels solid turning again and way better over bumps. I'll need to do the 4 large subframe bushings in the future.

TLDR
Basic Bavarian tool worked well to change 6 of 8 bushings I was changing. Need 1 larger sleeve to pull the inner CA bushing into and was able to do all 8. After watching videos on lowering the subframe I would have done that route cause I saw at least 2 of my subframe bushing should be replaced soon. Rear differential bushings looked ok.

Did you use the Master Set or the smaller "Trailing Arm Bushing Tool Set"?

[olympiad04]

Originally Posted by mattoak

Did you use the Master Set or the smaller "Trailing Arm Bushing Tool Set"?

I just used the basic set plus 1 other tool I found lying around that would fit the larger inner control arm bushing to remove it. Without the 1 extra sleeve I would have been only able to change 6 of the 8 bushings.

The bushing compression tool was super helpful. Especially for the larger CA bushing. Not sure why you can't find that alone.

It was on sale for $120 but I see it's back to $200. Plus I had a 5% offer on my credit card

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...ES4017433&fc=Y

[olympiad04]

Originally Posted by ironduke2010

And now Olympiad has me thinking about the diff bushings.

ChatGPT found this tool: https://pmdproducts.com/products/bushing-tool-bmw-e90

I can’t tell from the pic, but it looks like it just might be able to do everything, and maybe more, than the more expensive tools.

I wonder if it's only for the rear differential bushings or if you can also do the 4 large subframe bushings too. There are only 3 bushings and 2 different size bushings.

I wish they would start putting the diameter in mm of the bushings. Also wish the part number would say the diameter so you can just match it up. would make things so much easier. I hate looking at all these sets and still not sure exactly what you are able to do without actually trying it.

[morleidre]

While looking for information on replacing the rear bushings of my 2007 E90 328xi I found this thread on bushings and removal tools. I note that many of you have not yet changed the rear sub-frame bushings and want to offer my experience.

I could feel the rear end shifting sideways if I hit a bump on a curve on the Interstate. I decided the rear sub-frame bushings were the first thing to change. I decided I would need to drop the entire sub-frame and remove it from the car to be able to remove the bushings. This is what we did and I believe it was the correct decision.

My car had 15 years of Eastern Canadian winters with salt and salt brine. Even thought I rustproof the car annually (Krown) the corrossion is still significant. I ended up buying a Florida sub-frame with all the suspension arms, uprights and drive shafts attached. It had 160,000 km, but looked new compared to mine. I paid $500 USD plus $150 shipping. Again, I think this was a cost effective solution.

We did this on jack-stands, but I still believe complete removal of the sub-frame is the way to go.

We pressed the OEM rubber bushings out of the Florida sub-frame with a torch, sledge hammer, and puller made usinging a 3" diameter whole saw, threaded rod, washers, nuts, etc. Even though this was a "clean" sub-frame, I cannot imagine doing this work on the car.

I replaced the OEM rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings by Revshift (RVS-PSBE9X from FCP Euro for $250 USD). They are two-part bushings so install by hand into the sub-frame. You need to tighten the four (4) sub-frame bolts equally since the polyurethane will not deflect as much as rubber.

This fixed the lateral movement of the sub-frame and did not introduce any extra NVH or squeeks in the 15,000 km since the install. I would recommend polyurethane bushings at this location for a spirited daily driver.

Removing the sub-frame will likely require replacement of the parking brake cables, and possibly brake lines due to corrossion.

In summary, a worthwhile service/upgrade but I would not consider doing it on the car. It took two of us about 30 hours work. A hoist would have made it much easier.