J'ai fait le mien hier. Il a probablement fallu environ 3 heures de travail au niveau des fainéants. Comme tout le monde l'a dit, le travail n'est pas un problème à part les deux cylindres arrière. J'ai utilisé une combinaison de fil de cuivre et un tournevis scotché. J'ai acheté mes plugs à FCP Euro, donc je prévois de le faire tous les deux ans à partir de maintenant.
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21/05/2025LAST POST
Je viens de le faire aujourd'hui... La première fois, il a fallu environ deux heures. Il n'a rien cassé !
J'ai pris un ensemble de 8 plugs sur eBay pour 67 $ expédiés. J'ai utilisé la méthode de câble réseau CAT-5 sur les deux plus proches du pare-feu qui a bien fonctionné. J'ai desserré le réservoir de liquide de refroidissement pour fournir un peu plus d'espace pour glisser sur le couvercle de la bougie du côté passager.
7 d'entre eux étaient un morceau de gâteau. Mais ce dernier du côté des passagers... Je pense que j'ai inventé quelques nouveaux mots de malédiction sur celui-ci. La partie la plus difficile était d'obtenir une clé dynamométrique à l'arrière - il suffit de quelques tailles différentes d'extensions 3/8 "et vous irez bien.
C’était définitivement une nécessité : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/refoh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ieUTF8&psc1
J'ai pris un ensemble de 8 plugs sur eBay pour 67 $ expédiés. J'ai utilisé la méthode de câble réseau CAT-5 sur les deux plus proches du pare-feu qui a bien fonctionné. J'ai desserré le réservoir de liquide de refroidissement pour fournir un peu plus d'espace pour glisser sur le couvercle de la bougie du côté passager.
7 d'entre eux étaient un morceau de gâteau. Mais ce dernier du côté des passagers... Je pense que j'ai inventé quelques nouveaux mots de malédiction sur celui-ci. La partie la plus difficile était d'obtenir une clé dynamométrique à l'arrière - il suffit de quelques tailles différentes d'extensions 3/8 "et vous irez bien.
C’était définitivement une nécessité : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/refoh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ieUTF8&psc1
Curieux êtes-vous les gars en utilisant anti saisir sur les fils ou est-ce un non non en raison de problèmes de mise à la terre
Merci
Merci
I'm supercharged and change my plugs every 7500 miles. Here is the most important thing I learned.
Every coil plug takes slightly different amount of force to remove. Find the two easiest ones and put those in the back so it's easier next time around.
Every coil plug takes slightly different amount of force to remove. Find the two easiest ones and put those in the back so it's easier next time around.
Just did the job and it took me a pretty casual 3 hours. I was working pretty slowly and cleaning at the same time. No special tools, just lots of swivel sockets and ujoints. The most annoying part for me was honestly trying to put the airbox back together. Mine just never seems to fit right.
I started it up before putting everything back together and was amazed at how much smoother it felt/sounded. Definitely not waiting as long next time.
I started it up before putting everything back together and was amazed at how much smoother it felt/sounded. Definitely not waiting as long next time.
I just did mine after it threw an error code. I was getting a lot of pre-ignition explosion, and especially in high gear (6th) and lower speeds, car was undriveable. I changed the first lot of spark plugs at 37k km (2013) and this at 82km. There was a lot for carbon build up and the 2nd cylinder which threw the error code and forced the car into limp mode was pretty bad with terminal touching. I also had the 6th one bad too but not registering error codes. I hated driving the car.
Since the change it has been like new with smooth acceleration and just singing. Like the other OP said, not going to wait for this long to change. It took me about four hours for the job without removing the airbox. Getting the ones close to the firewall was time consuming and frustrating. Anyway, it's done for now!
Since the change it has been like new with smooth acceleration and just singing. Like the other OP said, not going to wait for this long to change. It took me about four hours for the job without removing the airbox. Getting the ones close to the firewall was time consuming and frustrating. Anyway, it's done for now!
Did this for the first time yesterday @38k. Wasn't as bad as I thought, took me a little under under 2 hours all said and done without taking off the cowl or the plenum. What helped the most was having a variety of different size extensions, a spark plug socket with a swivel attached, and one more swivel socket.
I also had the division M coil puller - worth every penny IMO.
I also had the division M coil puller - worth every penny IMO.
Did mine over the weekend...everything went fine except I got distracted when I walked away from removing the pass. side closest to cabin. Instead I went after the one I previously did next to it and somehow broke the coil plug! Dohhh
Anyone else notice that about a thousand miles after new spark plugs, the smoothness at idle for a cold start isn't quite there anymore? It's still better than before but not as good as brand new plugs.
My plan is to make spark plugs a yearly maintenance item done after the car is out of winter storage and ready for daily duties.
My plan is to make spark plugs a yearly maintenance item done after the car is out of winter storage and ready for daily duties.
Just done the job. Been easier than what's advertised.. 
. Coil plug pulled them out with some cable ties underneath them. NO special tools.
For the rear plugs...
... easiest way is to use a 150mm extension on top of the plug socket. That is all you need. No swivel socket..no swivel adaptors ...no nothing.
I've put the spark plug with socket in the hole... and after i had the extension 150mm in the hole.
I actually used a bit of tape on side of the socket so that i don't actually throw/ drop them in the hole.
On top of those the torque wrench fits perfect as well.....both sides.
This way you have a clean straight angle.
On extracting them....the extension comes out enough to see .. hold and unplug the socket with spark pllug on it...take the extension separated from the plug socket.
All the best.
. Coil plug pulled them out with some cable ties underneath them. NO special tools.For the rear plugs...
... easiest way is to use a 150mm extension on top of the plug socket. That is all you need. No swivel socket..no swivel adaptors ...no nothing.
I've put the spark plug with socket in the hole... and after i had the extension 150mm in the hole.
I actually used a bit of tape on side of the socket so that i don't actually throw/ drop them in the hole.
On top of those the torque wrench fits perfect as well.....both sides.
This way you have a clean straight angle.
On extracting them....the extension comes out enough to see .. hold and unplug the socket with spark pllug on it...take the extension separated from the plug socket.
All the best.
anyone use champion or autolite iridium?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4745121&cc=3294229
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6572972&cc=3294229
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4745121&cc=3294229
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6572972&cc=3294229
sibhusz06 wroteI just did mine and I didn't use any type of anti seize or anything like thatCurious are you guys using anti seize on the threads or is it a no no due to grounding concerns
Thanks
Both the DIYs and YouTube videos I watched didn't mention them so I just didn't bother
I'd assume nothing wrong would come if you were to use them but I'm no professional so somebody with knowledge on this please tune in!
Changed mine today and the old plugs doesnt look that bad
I love this forum so much. Just did mine and it took a total of 1.5 hours. If it weren't for all the great DIYs, member input and best practices I'd still be out in the garage trying to reinstall the plenum. LOL
Best part of this forum for me is seeing other people's struggles. Knowing that other people had the same issues as I am having but we're able to get past them helps keep me motivated and thinking positively... instead of throwing wrenches and cussing.
Best part of this forum for me is seeing other people's struggles. Knowing that other people had the same issues as I am having but we're able to get past them helps keep me motivated and thinking positively... instead of throwing wrenches and cussing.
I use a BFPB (big focking pry bar) and pop off the back 2 coil packs. Get under the plastic body...not the flimsy tab at the top.
Then I use a long extension, put it on the top of the coil and give it a light pop with a mallet.
The hardest part is fishing out the back to coil packs so they're out of the way.
Then I use a long extension, put it on the top of the coil and give it a light pop with a mallet.
The hardest part is fishing out the back to coil packs so they're out of the way.
What is the consensus regarding changing the ignition coils? I'm considering to change my spark plugs relatively soon but just not sure about the ignition coils.
I always thought they should be replaced whenever the spark plug is changed.
I always thought they should be replaced whenever the spark plug is changed.
Evo13 wrote...then find any paperwork that you may have on when they were last replaced. I use 50k -80k miles as my reminder unless your car is throwing codes about coil issues. Factors such as high heat due to living in hot areas, track driving, and long highway commutes in start and stop traffic may tend to lessen the coil's life so think about your driving conditions in addition to the visual inspection as another variable for when you think that you may need new coils. I've got 85k miles on my M3 but it is stored in a heated and air-conditioned garage, no track days, no burnouts, no doughnuts, no launches and the majority of its miles are long interstate commutes with no start and stop traffic (I am lucky that I don't live in a densely populated area of the USA).What is the consensus regarding changing the ignition coils? I'm considering to change my spark plugs relatively soon but just not sure about the ignition coils.
I always thought they should be replaced whenever the spark plug is changed.
I read how easy it is to get the coils off with screwdrivers, but I am a work smarter not harder guy.
I see there is no where I can buy that Division M tool anymore?
I see there is no where I can buy that Division M tool anymore?
Grip Addict wrotei bought that M Division tool on Amazon....but that was 3 yrs ago...I read how easy it is to get the coils off with screwdrivers, but I am a work smarter not harder guy.
I see there is no where I can buy that Division M tool anymore?
Use the coat hangar method, worked great for me!!
I did the spark plugs last weekend.
I was on the search for that M Division tool, but it is apparently sold out now, so I did the coat hanger method.
From the room I had with a coat hanger, how do you guys use that M Division tool on the back two coils?
I was on the search for that M Division tool, but it is apparently sold out now, so I did the coat hanger method.
From the room I had with a coat hanger, how do you guys use that M Division tool on the back two coils?
I echo everyone's sentiments throughout this thread and express my gratitude to those that contribute to the wealth of knowledge that is this forum and to this DIY thread in particular. I completed the job this past weekend. Was my first time changing the spark plugs on any of my cars and thanks to the guidance provided here had no issues whatsoever. In total the job took me about 2.5 hours taking my time and detailing the engine bay as I went. Luckily my coil packs were all relatively easy to pop off. I could wiggle/rotate all with my hand to loosen then simply used a flat head screw driver and my hand to pop them off the rest of the way. The wrench sockets and extensions made access a breeze. Very happy with the results and my ability to knock this one out. Thanks again!
