Track forum general chit chat.

chamba002 wrote  

Video of me at Harris Hill. Harry's Lap timer wasn't recording my lap times so I used my phone to live stream on Facebook lol. Very bumpy track, but still fun. I was hitting 100mph plus on the straights.

Nah, you were lowkey letting people of Facebook know you're a race car driver. It's cool.

Kong Sheng Han wrote

Those of you who use RBF 600, where do y'all get the fluid from? Prices on Amazon fluctuate a lot, and I've paid $16/bottle shipped before and $13/bottle shipped most recently. But I can't find anything at $13 anymore. :/

eBay. Last time I purchased, it was about $15 shipped.

chamba002 wrote

Video of me at Harris Hill. Harry's Lap timer wasn't recording my lap times so I used my phone to live stream on Facebook lol. Very bumpy track, but still fun. I was hitting 100mph plus on the straights.

Are those pads you're running street pads?

chamba002 wrote

Video of me at Harris Hill. Harry's Lap timer wasn't recording my lap times so I used my phone to live stream on Facebook lol. Very bumpy track, but still fun. I was hitting 100mph plus on the straights.

You should totally post that here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1279093

silvergray545 wrote

Are those pads you're running street pads?

Yeah, akebono carbon ceramic pads. Didn't have fade in the 100 degree heat.

chamba002 wrote  

silvergray545 wrote

Are those pads you're running street pads?

Yeah, akebono carbon ceramic pads. Didn't have fade in the 100 degree heat.

Ambient temps have virtually no effect on brake performance or fade.

Yeah exactly 30 degree change outside isn't gonna matter when you operate at 500

Oh I'm sure it helps a little.

Especially when we're talking about race compounds that have desirable operating ranges of 800 F - 1200 F and max temps of 1600 F or greater, even absurd ambient temp differences of freezing (at which we'd be hard pressed to find a track day happening) to 100 F are so small as to be negligible when discussing brake fade and cooling.

Even street pads that operate at much lower desirable ranges will not be measurably impacted by ambient temp.

Engine performance on the other hand...

I've been on track when there was ice in spots, was fine in s4 little different once in my m3

1MOREMOD wrote  

I've been on track when there was ice in spots, was fine in s4 little different once in my m3

Haha doesn't sound like fun, but sometimes you can't help yourself when you really NEED to get on track.

roastbeef wrote  

Just took the passenger side rear brake caliper off for the first time today. I'm hunting a squeaking noise and thought maybe when the sensor broke off a piece got lodged between the rotor and pad. Nope. No idea what's causing it.

Oh, and F taking the rear calipers off. Shit sucks. I don't know how you guys deal with it.

Takes 2 mins!!

Kong Sheng Han wrote  

Those of you who use RBF 600, where do y'all get the fluid from? Prices on Amazon fluctuate a lot, and I've paid $16/bottle shipped before and $13/bottle shipped most recently. But I can't find anything at $13 anymore. :/

Motorsportsfluid dot com

Sprayed the roll bar. Helps to have friends who are pros lol he's in there some where because too lazy to mask everything.

Selling a square set of E92 M3 18" 219 style OEM rear wheels that I picked up from ayao yesterday.

All four wheels are 18x9.5 e23

I would rate them a 9/10 or so due to some curbing and one scratch.

No cracks, bends or surprises.

I picked these up before checking fitment with my Brembo 380mm BBK and guess what, they don't fit.

$750

M3 Number 86 wrote  

roastbeef wrote  

Just took the passenger side rear brake caliper off for the first time today. I'm hunting a squeaking noise and thought maybe when the sensor broke off a piece got lodged between the rotor and pad. Nope. No idea what's causing it.

Oh, and F taking the rear calipers off. Shit sucks. I don't know how you guys deal with it.

Takes 2 mins!!

Lies! I had to use a 7mm Allen wrench... Didn't have a ratchet attachment. It sucked.

roastbeef wrote  

M3 Number 86 wrote  

roastbeef wrote  

Just took the passenger side rear brake caliper off for the first time today. I'm hunting a squeaking noise and thought maybe when the sensor broke off a piece got lodged between the rotor and pad. Nope. No idea what's causing it.

Oh, and F taking the rear calipers off. Shit sucks. I don't know how you guys deal with it.

Takes 2 mins!!

Lies! I had to use a 7mm Allen wrench... Didn't have a ratchet attachment. It sucked.

Haha an Allen key?! Um, no shit Sherlock lol

Yea, F that nonsense.

is it possible for the rear rotors to get ruined by being "too polished?" there are zero cracks in the front or back. lots of meat on the pads. i'm running a hybrid pad (DS2500). One track day on these rear pads, so they are definitely bedded in. i didn't see any pad deposits. rear rotors have small waves to them, but they are pretty glassy for the most part.
i'm not sure what the thickness is- i don't have a micrometer handy. sensor is disconnected and not a factor. lots of squeal hot or cold on the street. any ideas?

also, if i had to guess by how big of a lip i have on the outer edge of the rotor face, i'd say there is a 2mm lip on each side.

roastbeef wrote

is it possible for the rear rotors to get ruined by being "too polished?" there are zero cracks in the front or back. lots of meat on the pads. i'm running a hybrid pad (DS2500). One track day on these rear pads, so they are definitely bedded in. i didn't see any pad deposits. rear rotors have small waves to them, but they are pretty glassy for the most part.
i'm not sure what the thickness is- i don't have a micrometer handy. sensor is disconnected and not a factor. lots of squeal hot or cold on the street. any ideas?

also, if i had to guess by how big of a lip i have on the outer edge of the rotor face, i'd say there is a 2mm lip on each side.

That's a pretty substantial lip. For reference, my 26+ track day rear AP racing rotor doesn't even have that much crazing on it, nor does it have any lip at all. Looks barely used.

When my front OEM rotors died, they were making horrible vibrating noises even though there were barely any visible cracks in the rotor holes. The lip was huge though. I imagine it's the same here for you.

roastbeef wrote

Lies! I had to use a 7mm Allen wrench... Didn't have a ratchet attachment. It sucked.

redpriest wrote  

roastbeef wrote

is it possible for the rear rotors to get ruined by being "too polished?" there are zero cracks in the front or back. lots of meat on the pads. i'm running a hybrid pad (DS2500). One track day on these rear pads, so they are definitely bedded in. i didn't see any pad deposits. rear rotors have small waves to them, but they are pretty glassy for the most part.
i'm not sure what the thickness is- i don't have a micrometer handy. sensor is disconnected and not a factor. lots of squeal hot or cold on the street. any ideas?

also, if i had to guess by how big of a lip i have on the outer edge of the rotor face, i'd say there is a 2mm lip on each side.

That's a pretty substantial lip. For reference, my 26+ track day rear AP racing rotor doesn't even have that much crazing on it, nor does it have any lip at all. Looks barely used.

When my front OEM rotors died, they were making horrible vibrating noises even though there were barely any visible cracks in the rotor holes. The lip was huge though. I imagine it's the same here for you.

Well, looks like my rear rotors are done then.

Too bad PFC didn't have V3 Direct Drive rotors for the rear. (as far as I know). I think that would provide the perfect balance with front BBK.