Post your alignment specs.

hammbone50 wrote

Where are you guys getting your alignments done? The dealership? If so what are they charging you?

Stay away from the dealer, they will charge you a lot and want to keep it at factory specs.

STALKER wrote

Stay away from the dealer, they will charge you a lot and want to keep it at factory specs.

Thanks with that being said is there anyone in the Delaware area that any of you guys have used and recommended. I could also use a shop recommendation for the spring install. Thanks!

hammbone50 wrote

Where are you guys getting your alignments done? The dealership? If so what are they charging you?

Like others said, avoid the dealership for a performance alignment. I have some recommendations, but likely california is a little far for you.

If anyone else reading the thread in the bay area is looking for an alignment, Contact Orlando at Auto Innovations in Milpitas. he's GOOD.

Just had my alignment done after installing Moton Street Sports. I had the care lowered roughly 1/2" all the way around, and corner balanced. I have to have the cross weights sent to me still.

Front Camber
Left -2.2 Right -2.3
Total toe in is 1.0mm(they gave me some toe in on the front)
Rear Camber
Left -2.1 Right -2.1
Total toe in is 3.0mm

Car turns in beautifully.

Here are mine, have eibachs. Anything need to be adjusted?

Dinan Stage 1 w/ camber plates
-2.0 deg camber front and rear

should i get re-aligned post spacer install? i have eibachs, oem 19s, 245/35 and 275/35. i am planning to get 15mm spacers up front and 12mm in the rears. thoughts..?

Camber
-1.6 front
-1.8 rear

Zero toe front
3/32" toe-in rear

Stock suspension with front alignment pins pulled

Richbot wrote

Camber
-1.6 front
-1.3 rear

Zero toe front
3/32" toe-in rear

Stock suspension with front alignment pins pulled

What's the motivation for the -1.3 in the rear? Better rotation? TIA.

Edited, I remembered wrong. Rear is about 1.8. But if I were going to do anything within the constraints of the stock suspension to make the car rotate better, dropping to about -1 in the rear would be on the short list of things to do. No reason not to stand up the rear tires as most of the oversteer on this car seems to come from a lack of forward grip, not lateral grip

Richbot wrote

Edited, I remembered wrong. Rear is about 1.8. But if I were going to do anything within the constraints of the stock suspension to make the car rotate better, dropping to about -1 in the rear would be on the short list of things to do. No reason not to stand up the rear tires as most of the oversteer on this car seems to come from a lack of forward grip, not lateral grip

Roger. Thanks.

I'm thinking of doing max front camber with pins removed, -1.7 Camber in the rear

0 Toe front, 1-2mm toe rear

Will be on Dinan stage 1

Thoughts?

Will street wear be increased a lot?
how about track performance?

I track about once, sometimes 2-3 times a month
Thanks

persian54 wrote

I'm thinking of doing max front camber with pins removed, -1.7 Camber in the rear

0 Toe front, 1-2mm toe rear

Will be on Dinan stage 1

Thoughts?

Will street wear be increased a lot?
how about track performance?

I track about once, sometimes 2-3 times a month
Thanks

That sounds alright. I would add the Dinan camber plates in the front personally.

GC adj camber plates and H&R race springs. ZCP e90 m3 sedan.

street:
front: -2.4 camber and just a hair of toe-in
rear: -2.2 camber and bit more than a hair of toe-in (sorry no actual figures )

track:
front: -4+ camber (i just max the camber plates out) and toe-out a decent amt but nothing too bad
rear: static to street

tire wear on the street after 1k miles or so, perfectly fine!
performance on the track, EPIC!

STALKER wrote

That sounds alright. I would add the Dinan camber plates in the front personally.

$$$ I don't want to spend right now
$250 for -.3-.5 isn't worth it

when the time comes, I'll do a full KW CS and use adjustable camber plates and push the front to -2.5 to -3 for the track

persian54 wrote

$$$ I don't want to spend right now
$250 for -.3-.5 isn't worth it

when the time comes, I'll do a full KW CS and use adjustable camber plates and push the front to -2.5 to -3 for the track

They will give you a bit more then that with my experience without pulling the pins. Im not a big fan of pulling the pins, I would rather spend the $250 on the plates. But thats just me.

STALKER wrote

They will give you a bit more then that with my experience without pulling the pins. Im not a big fan of pulling the pins, I would rather spend the $250 on the plates. But thats just me.

If I would be going plates I'd do GC :P

Pulling pins, from what I've read, been told by people on this forum as well as my BMW master tech is perfectly fine.

I'll eventually do a full coilover set up (probably by next summer)

I wasn't going to modify the suspension but a friend was selling his Dinan kit so I picked it up for the time being. Something is better than nothing

Camber:
Front: -3º left, -3.1º right
Rear: -1.9º left, -1.9º right

Toe:
Front: .12º left, .11º right
Rear: .11º left, .14º right

Stock ZCP suspension w Ground Control camber plates. Once I'm more accustomed to my setup, thinking of reducing the rear toe.

llis wrote

Camber:
Front: -3º left, -3.1º right
Rear: -1.9º left, -1.9º right

Toe:
Front: .12º left, .11º right
Rear: .11º left, .14º right

Stock ZCP suspension w Ground Control camber plates. Once I'm more accustomed to my setup, thinking of reducing the rear toe.

How old are they? Any squeaking or rattling?

GewoW wrote

How old are they? Any squeaking or rattling?

Nary a peep.

here is mine!

KW competition with competition camber plates (from M-World)

got he car redone again

front : -2.4

rear: -2.1

total toe: .20