Post your alignment specs.

F -2.2, toe +0.03 total
R -1.8, toe +0.08 total

Front end is under during mid-speed cornering entry
rear end can be flat out without oversteering.

Next move, give it negative toe and more camber, also lower the front a bit.

zcp with edc
gc plates
-3 front
-2 rear

for street and track.

I tried to get my rear camber to -2.4 but my guy says my max is -2.17 why?

anyone can help?

my front is -3.0

4sevens.com wrote

zcp with edc
gc plates
-3 front
-2 rear

for street and track.

4sevens, how is your tire wear on the street?

All, will the GC Plates work with the EDC still entact?

Are these the GC plates that you guys are using?
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php?II=897

Dodge2Dub wrote

4sevens, how is your tire wear on the street?

All, will the GC Plates work with the EDC still entact?

Are these the GC plates that you guys are using?
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php?II=897

The wear is fine as I frequently go to the track. When I don't I just drive a bit more aggressively on the street! The cornering ability is a difference between night and day.

yes edc is intact

yes those are the plates

Eugene-TAIWAN wrote

I tried to get my rear camber to -2.4 but my guy says my max is -2.17 why?

anyone can help?

my front is -3.0

Can you take a picture of your rear suspension lower camber arm (4) and toe arm (13), in particular where they mount to the sub frame?

rldzhao wrote

Can you take a picture of your rear suspension lower camber arm (4) and toe arm (13), in particular where they mount to the sub frame?

do you mean i have to loosen them and adjust them to ideal camber then tighten it?

My new settings are as follows:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00

Car drives worlds better with a hair of toe out on the front end compared to zero toe or toe in. A bit more sensitive, but turn in is great along with grip.

Front:
-3.0 camber
1/16 total toe out

Rear:
-2.0 camber
1/8 total toe in

Along w/new Michelin Super Sports, I had my car aligned as-follows:

F: -1.4 deg camber and 0 toe (before was 1.0 deg from factory)
R: -2.0 deg camber and 1/16 toe-in (before was 1.4 deg from factory)

I'm running factory tire width w/ZCP wheels and suspension. With the strut pins pulled, -1.4 was the most camber I could get.

Car drives smoothly, has nice turn-in, and no tramlining. It will see another 3 or 4 track days this year. I'll provide feedback.

-Brian

Here are my current specs. Big improvement over stock for the street.

Car has Dinan springs, stops and camber plates.

I ran:
-3.0 front camber; -2.0 rear camber
1/16 toe in all around

and it ate the front insides more than I'm comfortable with. They were wearing ~50% faster than the middle even with little street driving and a couple of track days a month.

Now I run:
-2.5 LF/-2.0 RF; -1.7 rear
0 toe in front; 1/8 in rear

I will report back with wear with the new setup.

Recently switched to -2.4f/.1.8r due to excessive inside tire wear on rears!

Just got new set of super sports and thus a new alignment:

2008 w/ EDC, GC plates

Front: camber -2.6 , toe 1/16" IN street , 1/16" OUT track.
Rear: camber -2.0 , toe 1/16" IN.

Just got back from VIR, turn in is great, stable under high speed braking, smooth on highway. Will give a wear update as well.

Sleeper519 wrote

Just got new set of super sports and thus a new alignment:

2008 w/ EDC, GC plates

Front: camber -2.6 , toe 1/16" IN street , 1/16" OUT track.
Rear: camber -2.0 , toe 1/16" IN.

Just got back from VIR, turn in is great, stable under high speed braking, smooth on highway. Will give a wear update as well.

Do you adjust the toe link or is the camber different street and track as well?

Porschefile wrote

Do you adjust the toe link or is the camber different street and track as well?

Both front and rear camber stays static. Only front toe is adjusted.

From yesterday. The toe was equal but some guy go into the lasers when he pushed print.

Bigjae,
you had asked how I had marked the left front tierod: one black hash mark for street--two marks for track. It's about ~2/3 of a revolution to go from 1/16" toe IN to 1/16" toe OUT. (counterclockwise lengthens the rod and hence toe goes out). You only have to do one side. * I would only advise doing this after marking it while the car is on the alignment rack for precise measurements.*

It's a small change but I think it makes a noticeable difference on turn in, but saves wear on the tires for the DD.

Awesome and thanks! I think I'll cover the marks with some clear tape or something so they don't go AWOL from dirt, rain, and general road use.

20 days ago, I lowered my car, week and a half ago, I got my Super Sports...

Stock 220 wheels

F255/35/19
R276/35/19

H&R Sport Plus
F: 12mm MS Spacers
R: 10mm MS Spacers

My specs were way off prior to the alignment... musta been from the drop?

Initial readings:
F camber L: -1.73° R: -1.96°
R camber L: -1.86° R: -1.94°
F toe L: -0.32° R: -0.20°
R toe L: -0.65° R: 0.00°
Thrust angle 0.33°

Final readings
F camber L: -1.89° R: -1.89°
R camber L: -1.90° R: -1.90° <-- Should have I got more? There was plenty room to, but what about thread life or straight line acceleration ?
F toe L: 0.06° R: 0.06° <-- is that close enough to Zero?
R toe L: 0.10° R: 0.10°
Thrust angle -0.01°

My alignment guy was able to get -2.00˚ on my front right but wasn't able to achieve the same on the driver side...WHY? -2.0˚ would have been nice considering I don't have Camber plates! So we had to back it down to equal the other side.

Specs for the Trust angle is -0.07˚ - 0.07˚ How the hell did I end up at 0.33˚

Any thoughts about my initial readings? It just looks weird to me:confused2

I have to say though (don't know if its just in my head) but the car feels faster. lol Seems like it has less rolling resistance.. feels silky smooth, like more neutral I think... can't put a word to it, but it feels NICE and a night and day difference from prior...

Stable at high speed, but didn't test high speed braking stability. I will next time I get the chance too. Hopefully on a track Soon!

Sleeper519 wrote

Bigjae,
you had asked how I had marked the left front tierod: one black hash mark for street--two marks for track. It's about ~2/3 of a revolution to go from 1/16" toe IN to 1/16" toe OUT. (counterclockwise lengthens the rod and hence toe goes out). You only have to do one side. * I would only advise doing this after marking it while the car is on the alignment rack for precise measurements.*

It's a small change but I think it makes a noticeable difference on turn in, but saves wear on the tires for the DD.

Why do you just adjust one side? Doesn't your center steer go off?