Rod bearings | GTA

skru_fase wrote

Hey guys, I posted this elsewhere, but for those of you interested in having your bearings swapped in the GTA, I had RMP do mine the other day. Swap went great, and it turns out my old ones had life in them still. Rocco is likely going to be getting better (than retail) pricing on the BE bearings for those of you considering.

Rocco mentioned he saw a 2008 a week or so prior that was in far worse shape, and this car had fewer km's on it. No Moly Slip though.

Year: 2011
Condition: Very good
KM's: 84k
OCI: 8-10k, with Moly Slip since 14k (2nd owner)
Tracked >40days
Engine tuned, but still NA

Which bearings did you get? From the post there seems to be debate VAC coated or BE Bearings...

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

He quoted me a 3200$ coated bearings with arp bolts.

What sould I get though, just go with him an do that or get BE?

Are they VAC coated bearings that he's talking about?

I think he is getting VAC bearings yes. I went BE, but others have used VAC without problem. Up to you I guess. He can install either, but you might have to get BE yourself...

skru_fase wrote

I think he is getting VAC bearings yes. I went BE, but others have used VAC without problem. Up to you I guess. He can install either, but you might have to get BE yourself...

Lol another thing to think about. Arghh.
I would just go with what he already has it'l be simpler but damn, 3200$ is still a lot. I'll have to save some money aside before getting the car.

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

Lol another thing to think about. Arghh.
I would just go with what he already has it'l be simpler but damn, 3200$ is still a lot. I'll have to save some money aside before getting the car.

It's a rabbit hole. Do enough research on this form and you'll find users slamming VAC bearings for poor business practices, others praising them showing absolutely no wear after 50k and others dictating it's the rod bolts and not the bearings at all.

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

Lol another thing to think about. Arghh.
I would just go with what he already has it'l be simpler but damn, 3200$ is still a lot. I'll have to save some money aside before getting the car.

I was initially looking at BE as well but went with VAC as it was easier (BE was back ordered at the time) . Neither of them are really a proven fix, but offer solutions that are better than stock ones and little peace of mind (which is why i did it). Just an FYI when Rocco showed me my old bearings they were in good shape (80k 2012) , he told me I really didn't need to change them at the time but it was always on the back of my mind so i did it anyways. yeah its expensive but still not as much as what i spent on my old N54 (6 Injectors, Valve cover, etcc )

triggz82 wrote

It's a rabbit hole. Do enough research on this form and you'll find users slamming VAC bearings for poor business practices, others praising them showing absolutely no wear after 50k and others dictating it's the rod bolts and not the bearings at all.

blu3wolf wrote

I was initially looking at BE as well but went with VAC as it was easier (BE was back ordered at the time) . Neither of them are really a proven fix, but offer solutions that are better than stock ones and little peace of mind (which is why i did it). Just an FYI when Rocco showed me my old bearings they were in good shape (80k 2012) , he told me I really didn't need to change them at the time but it was always on the back of my mind so i did it anyways. yeah its expensive but still not as much as what i spent on my old N54 (6 Injectors, Valve cover, etcc )

Yeah, I mean I'm ready to take the hit if I know these new bearings can at least outlast the KM that's on the car right now, 90 000km, and not worry about it anymore.

I asked BE bearing if same grade oil stays with theirs and I suppose with the VAC 10w-60 is still to be used?

triggz82 wrote

It's a rabbit hole. Do enough research on this form and you'll find users slamming VAC bearings for poor business practices, others praising them showing absolutely no wear after 50k and others dictating it's the rod bolts and not the bearings at all.

lol that number keeps going up first 40k, now 50k? AFAIK the highest VAC bearings MRP removed where 33.5k , I haven't seen any higher mileage VAC bearings posted.

MRF's post below from this thread, I made the number that is often misquoted bigger so you can see:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073979

Malek@MRF wrote

I will keep this straight to the point as much as possible. Here we have an engine I have torn down for a client. The engines history is as follows:

• 2013 BMW M3 Coupe
• 39,500 miles on engine + chassis
• 38,000 miles SUPERCHARGED via ESS VT2-625
  
• 33,500 miles with VAC Coated Rod Bearings + ARP Connecting Rod bolts
• Engine Oil Specification 10W-60 every 5000 Miles. At 10,000 miles, the engine was only filled with Liqui Moly 10W-60, not Castrol TWS and every oil service thereafter every 5000 miles.
  

Malek@MRF

tdott wrote

lol that number keeps going up first 40k, now 50k? AFAIK the highest VAC bearings MRP removed where 33.5k , I haven't seen any higher mileage VAC bearings posted.

MRF's post below from this thread, I made the number that is often misquoted bigger so you can see:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073979

I've seen that post... pristine at 33.5k miles. I was quoting 50k km anyway.... now here's the curveball that's posted on the last page of the same thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1253084&page=5

See post #96. Those are VAC bearings removed after 1500 miles. Perhaps poor installation? Who knows.

6ixSpd wrote

Just did my oil change and wanted to give a shoutout to Stance Factory for hooking up the LiquiMoly "molyslip" additive. Not sure if it's in my head but I swear my car idles a little quieter right now.

That isn’t Molyslip breh

triggz82 wrote

I've seen that post... pristine at 33.5k miles. I was quoting 50k km anyway.... now here's the curveball that's posted on the last page of the same thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1253084&page=5

See post #96. Those are VAC bearings removed after 1500 miles. Perhaps poor installation? Who knows.

Different bearing. VAC doesn’t sell those anymore.

doogee wrote

That isn’t Molyslip breh

It's LiquiMoly's MoS2. They're the same thing, both are MoS2 blends. Molyslip or LiquiMoly MoS2 are analogous. But I suppose technically it's not "Molyslip" indeed.

6ixSpd wrote

It's LiquiMoly's MoS2. They're the same thing, both are MoS2 blends. Molyslip or LiquiMoly MoS2 are analogous. But I suppose technically it's not "Molyslip" indeed.

Good good! Certainly going to help!

skru_fase wrote

I think he is getting VAC bearings yes. I went BE, but others have used VAC without problem. Up to you I guess. He can install either, but you might have to get BE yourself...

Which rod bolts did you get?

I did the calculations and I save a good amount if I get the BE bolts and bearings instead. He quotes me 1600$ labor and the BE bearings and bolts come up to around 1200$ CAD total 2800$ instead of 3600$ with the VACs.

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

Which rod bolts did you get?

I did the calculations and I save a good amount if I get the BE bolts and bearings instead. He quotes me 1600$ labor and the BE bearings and bolts come up to around 1200$ CAD total 2800$ instead of 3600$ with the VACs.

I bought the ARP ones from BE

skru_fase wrote

I bought the ARP ones from BE

Yeah I'm set on the BE bearings with their BE ARP bolts.

Originally I had my mind set on ordering BEbearings but I spoke to several people that do engine tuning and building and VAC seems to be the more sought after choice. I trust VAC since these guys take apart these engines on a regular basis, and I know several M3 owners using VAC bearings without an issue.

That being said both brands are great replacements since they do offer a "clearance" fix. So regardless of whichever one you go with its still better than OEM.

However I do feel its a band-aid to the bigger issue with the S65, you change your rod bearings and you still have a chance that the main bearings will go also.

Best to run these engines from new with MOS2/Ceratec/Molyslip, but for those who haven't its a good idea to start!
=

gordon@ wrote

Originally I had my mind set on ordering BEbearings but I spoke to several people that do engine tuning and building and VAC seems to be the more sought after choice. I trust VAC since these guys take apart these engines on a regular basis, and I know several M3 owners using VAC bearings without an issue.

That being said both brands are great replacements since they do offer a "clearance" fix. So regardless of whichever one you go with its still better than OEM.

However I do feel its a band-aid to the bigger issue with the S65, you change your rod bearings and you still have a chance that the main bearings will go also.

Best to run these engines from new with MOS2/Ceratec/Molyslip, but for those who haven't its a good idea to start!
=

It just keeps on going....

But main bearings failures are pretty rare right. I just hope that, if I change to BE bearings and let's say the main bearings goes, and I call BMW NA and they agree to help but realize the rod bearings were change to something else they might be sorry not OEM.

So molyslip oil is the one to get now? Where was this discussed? I was planning to keep on usin' 10w60 from the dealer. All the post I read of oil most people say that.

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

It just keeps on going....

But main bearings failures are pretty rare right. I just hope that, if I change to BE bearings and let's say the main bearings goes, and I call BMW NA and they agree to help but realize the rod bearings were change to something else they might be sorry not OEM.

So molyslip oil is the one to get now? Where was this discussed? I was planning to keep on usin' 10w60 from the dealer. All the post I read of oil most people say that.

I used Molyslip with in my engine since 16k, 85k at oil change with lots of track time. Check my post in the replacement thread, my bearings were in pretty great shape, and I think Molyslip had quite a bit to do with it...

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21145393&postcount=12

skru_fase wrote

I used Molyslip with in my engine since 16k, 85k at oil change with lots of track time. Check my post in the replacement thread, my bearings were in pretty great shape, and I think Molyslip had quite a bit to do with it...

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21145393&postcount=12

Ohhh I confused Molyslip with Liquimoly.

So stick with OEM oil but add molyslip? It's just an oil additive? Is this the one?

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

Ohhh I confused Molyslip with Liquimoly.

So stick with OEM oil but add molyslip? It's just an oil additive? Is this the one?

That's the one. Use one can per oil change.

Stick to 10w60 and Molyslip and you'll have greatly reduced wear. Also, in the event your bearings do go, Molyslip may save your crank and prevent the bearing from spinning, giving you enough warning to actually fix the issue before the motor grenades.

I vouch for VAC with ARP bolts so far. I installed mine almost 40,000 KM ago.

doogee wrote

That's the one. Use one can per oil change.

Stick to 10w60 and Molyslip and you'll have greatly reduced wear. Also, in the event your bearings do go, Molyslip may save your crank and prevent the bearing from spinning, giving you enough warning to actually fix the issue before the motor grenades.

I vouch for VAC with ARP bolts so far. I installed mine almost 40,000 KM ago.

Ok. It's 15$ a can. Seems ok.

Quick question, still recommend using it after rod bearing change?

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote

Ok. It's 15$ a can. Seems ok.

Quick question, still recommend using it after rod bearing change?

Absolutely. I've always used it in all my vehicles.

These motors still have a main bearing wear issue so you may as well protect yourself against that.