What have you done with or to your M3 today?

I did meth today. I hope my teeth don't rot!

irokwrx wrote

I did meth today. I hope my teeth don't rot!

If by teeth you mean rod bearings... you might be disappointed

The pin removal thing is noticeable, both visually and by feel.
I had plenty of tire to fender gap before, and it never bothered me, but I might have to consider joining the Spacer Club now.
The new sway bars changed the way the car cornered, noticeably flatter and the steering effort felt easier.
And the added negative camber up front, whatever it is, seemed to add even more to the ease of steering effort.
I just got back from doing four 3/4 effort on-ramp passes just now and the car seemed much more predictable and I felt way more comfortable at obnoxious speeds.
So thumbs up for the solid rear subframe bushings, sway bars and the pin removal.

AdM1nsarEas$ wrote

That’s awesome. How did you measure and cut the holes? Just eyeballed?

I actually had the guys at ACM cut the holes when they did my spring service. I had planned on doing it myself using a 3" hole that I had in my garage. With the larger diameter you do not need to be super accurate with the placement. The last time I adjusted the rear adjusters I was able to keep the liner mostly in place and was able to reach behind. At this point you can feel where you want the center of the hole and pierce it from the back with a nail. Then you can be sure you are in the correct location for the holes.

They were spot on with the 2 1/2" hole so all I had to do is search for the correct size hole cover. There are plenty of styles of plastic and rubber caps on the internet. Whatever size hole you cut, simply find the appropriate size cap. I hope this helps.

Siajoon wrote

Tint them? What do you mean by that

You can only get blue yellow or red. I wanted to try an orange film to try to make it a little for like Fox red

EJT86 wrote

Siajoon wrote

Tint them? What do you mean by that

You can only get blue yellow or red. I wanted to try an orange film to try to make it a little for like Fox red

Gotcha!

So finally got my new ride registered today and got my tag moved over to it as well. I have had it on 4 different M3's now since 2001, think I got lucky back then to have gotten it!

OG Shark wrote

693 lbs

Thank you

M3R1 wrote

Cut holes in the trunk to access the Ohlins adjusters... I found plastic caps on amazon for $1.99 for both. They look OEM...

That's awesome! Would love a link for those caps please

0-60Motorsports wrote

That's awesome! Would love a link for those caps please

Thank you! Scroll up to post #16040, I posted the link there...

Testing out these 30 profile PZeros on gravel

That car is so clean to put on gravel 😂

Changed brake fluid.

Rod bearings (BE/ARP), VCG with new powder coated covers, dinan monoballs, AutoSolutions SSK, fluid flush and new motor mounts...

M3R1 wrote

gtenedio wrote

send the link! this is awesome

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a belt sander to reduce the size of the tabs, this way they don't do damage when the are removed.

Thank you, placed my order. These should work perfect in the E46 M3. Cheers

gkgsvensson wrote

Rod bearings (BE/ARP), VCG with new powder coated covers, dinan monoballs, AutoSolutions SSK, fluid flush and new motor mounts...

I see copper showing on nearly all of the upper shells. It was definitely time. What mileage? How much to powder coat the valve covers? Nice improvements all around. Good move.

Finally got my hands on carbon leather trim for my e90.. completely transformed the interior of my car.. super satisfied

The brushed aluminum trim was sleek but I already have 2 tone seats so it was just to many colors going on

tbuck wrote

So finally got my new ride registered today and got my tag moved over to it as well. I have had it on 4 different M3's now since 2001, think I got lucky back then to have gotten it!

I just got my M registered in Alabama ....I have a house in Huntsville. I live in Md but had to register the M down there due to no emissions. I was going to do the personalized tag but was told I have to come in to do it (not going all the way back down there for that). And it's crazy how they go by your last name as far as the expiration date.

irokwrx wrote

I just got my M registered in Alabama ....I have a house in Huntsville. I live in Md but had to register the M down there due to no emissions. I was going to do the personalized tag but was told I have to come in to do it (not going all the way back down there for that). And it's crazy how they go by your last name as far as the expiration date.

Yeah, I guess they did that to even out the registration over the whole year. Not sure how that started, been that way for all of my 55 years.

Davisca455 wrote

So thumbs up for the solid rear subframe bushings, sway bars and the pin removal.

Perfect OEM+ suspension mods. I need to do all three. Which sway bar did you end up going with?

Space Fox wrote

Davisca455 wrote

So thumbs up for the solid rear subframe bushings, sway bars and the pin removal.

Perfect OEM+ suspension mods. I need to do all three. Which sway bar did you end up going with?

I used the Hotchkis bars, front and rear.
I'm at factory ride height, both bars are set at full soft and the OEM end links worked.
The rear bar there were zero issues.
However, the driver's side front was REALLY close to the headlight level sensor linkage at full droop with the bar set at full soft.
I was all "Really Hotchkis? You couldn't have made the bar a 1/4" wider?"
So if you're into wheel stands and your front suspension is reaching full droop on a regular basis, you might consider some shorter end links when the bar is set at full soft.