DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

eddiegordo wrote

Hey everyone. Thanks for putting this thread together, lots of useful information in here.

I have ordered a Carsara box a few months ago but haven't had the proper time to install it yet. I have an Android phone and plan on using the Android Auto only. In the bimmertech video about on how to use, they mention that with Android we should leave the phone paired via bluetooth to the original CIC and that the sound would go via bluetooth - see video at 2m50s mark

Is this for music audio and phone calls, or just phone calls? Will the audio still need to go via Aux (via the quadlock)? It's a bit confusing in this thread it seems consensual that we should unpair the bluetooth phone on the original CIC but they suggest keeping it for "hands-free bluetooth system".

Thanks in advance!

I need to check but I'm 99% positive I only have my Android device paired with the Carsara unit. This may have been a limitation with certain phones or the older bimmertech firmware?

Cyberdemon wrote

I need to check but I'm 99% positive I only have my Android device paired with the Carsara unit. This may have been a limitation with certain phones or the older bimmertech firmware?

Makes sense, I guess I'll know once I install it.

Thanks for the answer!

Really great thread Cyberdemon I think we all owe you for taking the lead on this for the community's benefit! It's been a huge help for me.

I installed my Carsara box into my 2011 E90 M3 over the weekend. My hands are still stinging from all the tiny cuts but it's in and mostly working. My car has the BimmerTech back camera retrofit (OEM) which I think introduces a second quadlock to tuck away and a video module so getting things to fit was especially brutal . Removing the black plastic cage and tucking things towards the passenger side was key.

Things seemed good except switching to CarPlay and back to iDrive when I test with climate controls disconnected and not driving. iDrive works as expected but when holding down the Menu button it stays in iDrive but highlighting items (wheel scroll) and selecting (wheel press) do nothing. Holding down Menu again will restore control to iDrive. It's as if it's switching and allowing me to control CarPlay but the video doesn't update so I can't see it.

I successfully coded for quadlock audio prior to install with Bimmercode and Veepeak adapter (more below), then cables A to B and didn't use the CIC-KT iDrive cable. I've tried with switch settings 3,4 and 3,4,7 with battery disconnected between attempts but no noticeable difference. This is how I first installed things and thought it wasn't working because of my OS switching problem so I tried the other combinations of connections but with worse results.

I did eventually discover that if I press and hold the Back button, I can switch between iDrive and CarPlay. What?! I'd prefer the Menu button if possible as it's more intuitive but I could live with this. Back seems to fire off its programmed event and sometimes things move as part of the UI animation of the Back functionality just before switching so it's a bit janky. I have a message into the seller on Aliexpress but I'd bet this thread will be more useful.


Audio Coding prep
I follow Thic Whips on YouTube and recall his video about BimmerCode and was able to get a little discount but more importantly, known compatibility with the adapter, BimmerCode and my E90. Once the adapter arrived, I purchased BimmerCode and had it coded in about 10 minutes. Using the search functionality in the module's advanced settings made finding things easy.

15% Off The Veepeak Adapter Using Code: YTBDST15
OBD2 Adapter For Bimmercode: https://amzn.to/2EvOM1C

Questions
When deleting EDC last year, my iDrive software was updated or reset by the shop so I lost my coding for my rear camera retrofit. I was incorrectly informed I could code it back after this MMI install (by BimmerTech!) but never put 2 and 2 together even after I learned that the audio coding can't be completed after install. Don't know why I didn't think of this earlier! So now I need to temporarily revert some of the install to code back the camera options.

mrvedit wrote

It is best to complete the programming before starting; or, if you already have the new harness installed, before removing the jumper D.

mrvedit Can you or anyone else clarify what the minimum work necessary is to be able to code the head unit again? Can I connect the jumper back to something and leave the quadlocks alone?

Did anyone else encounter the Back button OS switching issue and find a way to use the Menu button instead?

Anyone experience rattling in the dash from where the Carsara sits when driving over a rough roads?

I'm guessing cid can no longer control track skipping

davedNconfused wrote

Things seemed good except switching to CarPlay and back to iDrive when I test with climate controls disconnected and not driving. iDrive works as expected but when holding down the Menu button it stays in iDrive but highlighting items (wheel scroll) and selecting (wheel press) do nothing. Holding down Menu again will restore control to iDrive. It's as if it's switching and allowing me to control CarPlay but the video doesn't update so I can't see it.

I successfully coded for quadlock audio prior to install with Bimmercode and Veepeak adapter (more below), then cables A to B and didn't use the CIC-KT iDrive cable. I've tried with switch settings 3,4 and 3,4,7 with battery disconnected between attempts but no noticeable difference. This is how I first installed things and thought it wasn't working because of my OS switching problem so I tried the other combinations of connections but with worse results.

I did eventually discover that if I press and hold the Back button, I can switch between iDrive and CarPlay. What?! I'd prefer the Menu button if possible as it's more intuitive but I could live with this. Back seems to fire off its programmed event and sometimes things move as part of the UI animation of the Back functionality just before switching so it's a bit janky. I have a message into the seller on Aliexpress but I'd bet this thread will be more useful.


Questions
When deleting EDC last year, my iDrive software was updated or reset by the shop so I lost my coding for my rear camera retrofit. I was incorrectly informed I could code it back after this MMI install (by BimmerTech!) but never put 2 and 2 together even after I learned that the audio coding can't be completed after install. Don't know why I didn't think of this earlier! So now I need to temporarily revert some of the install to code back the camera options.



mrvedit Can you or anyone else clarify what the minimum work necessary is to be able to code the head unit again? Can I connect the jumper back to something and leave the quadlocks alone?

Did anyone else encounter the Back button OS switching issue and find a way to use the Menu button instead?

The fact that you mention having an extra quadlock pigtail involved makes me think something is causing a conflict? If you can connect it without the Bimmertech camera and see if you still get the same problem that may be an indication that some signal is getting crossed.

If you need to code the camera back in, you need to basically unplug the redundant quadlocks. It's not too painful, just remove the CIC, unplug the display cables and quadlock and you can leave the CIC dangling out on the dash while you code it. Then once it's done just plug the Carsara back in. It's a pain but when I had to do this it took me only probably 30 minutes to assemble/reassemble and I cleaned up some of the wiring while I was in there.

WeekendV8 wrote

Anyone experience rattling in the dash from where the Carsara sits when driving over a rough roads?

No, at least nothing louder than the other millions of rattles that I have in the car from the trim and doors. Where do you have the unit? The box itself shouldn't move at all, and the antenna should be stuck down with the adhesive strip. Try to zip tie any loose wires theres very little room back there you shouldn't get a rattle.

unrulyteach wrote

I'm guessing cid can no longer control track skipping

Are you asking about the track skip buttons on the center console? I haven't tried those the steering wheel controls will work, not sure what the advantage would be of using the CIC buttons.

Cyberdemon wrote

davedNconfused wrote

Things seemed good except switching to CarPlay and back to iDrive when I test with climate controls disconnected and not driving. iDrive works as expected but when holding down the Menu button it stays in iDrive but highlighting items (wheel scroll) and selecting (wheel press) do nothing. Holding down Menu again will restore control to iDrive. It's as if it's switching and allowing me to control CarPlay but the video doesn't update so I can't see it.

I successfully coded for quadlock audio prior to install with Bimmercode and Veepeak adapter (more below), then cables A to B and didn't use the CIC-KT iDrive cable. I've tried with switch settings 3,4 and 3,4,7 with battery disconnected between attempts but no noticeable difference. This is how I first installed things and thought it wasn't working because of my OS switching problem so I tried the other combinations of connections but with worse results.

I did eventually discover that if I press and hold the Back button, I can switch between iDrive and CarPlay. What?! I'd prefer the Menu button if possible as it's more intuitive but I could live with this. Back seems to fire off its programmed event and sometimes things move as part of the UI animation of the Back functionality just before switching so it's a bit janky. I have a message into the seller on Aliexpress but I'd bet this thread will be more useful.


Questions
When deleting EDC last year, my iDrive software was updated or reset by the shop so I lost my coding for my rear camera retrofit. I was incorrectly informed I could code it back after this MMI install (by BimmerTech!) but never put 2 and 2 together even after I learned that the audio coding can't be completed after install. Don't know why I didn't think of this earlier! So now I need to temporarily revert some of the install to code back the camera options.



mrvedit Can you or anyone else clarify what the minimum work necessary is to be able to code the head unit again? Can I connect the jumper back to something and leave the quadlocks alone?

Did anyone else encounter the Back button OS switching issue and find a way to use the Menu button instead?

The fact that you mention having an extra quadlock pigtail involved makes me think something is causing a conflict? If you can connect it without the Bimmertech camera and see if you still get the same problem that may be an indication that some signal is getting crossed.

If you need to code the camera back in, you need to basically unplug the redundant quadlocks. It's not too painful, just remove the CIC, unplug the display cables and quadlock and you can leave the CIC dangling out on the dash while you code it. Then once it's done just plug the Carsara back in. It's a pain but when I had to do this it took me only probably 30 minutes to assemble/reassemble and I cleaned up some of the wiring while I was in there.

WeekendV8 wrote

Anyone experience rattling in the dash from where the Carsara sits when driving over a rough roads?

No, at least nothing louder than the other millions of rattles that I have in the car from the trim and doors. Where do you have the unit? The box itself shouldn't move at all, and the antenna should be stuck down with the adhesive strip. Try to zip tie any loose wires theres very little room back there you shouldn't get a rattle.

unrulyteach wrote

I'm guessing cid can no longer control track skipping

Are you asking about the track skip buttons on the center console? I haven't tried those the steering wheel controls will work, not sure what the advantage would be of using the CIC buttons.

Yes the buttons on the cid or head unit

Cyberdemon wrote

Unfortunately hard for me to say then. It's possible certain cars or options required a different configuration than what was originally suggested. If you want to post your build and options perhaps others can see if they have a similar build and it works. It's hard to make absolutes when different folks got different combinations of Aux, Combox, USB, Ipod integration, etc.

Agree, have individual audio with center console usb/audio jack. Does not have combox.

Might pull the entire thing out again and have a look. Its a shame cos sound is reasonable and would like better and less wiring.

Hi guys,

Recently installed the Carsera box and today waze will not show a gps location other than showing the location at my house.

apple maps is working correctly however.

how do i reboot the unit? (soft reboot not reset)

M3James wrote

Hi guys,

Recently installed the Carsera box and today waze will not show a gps location other than showing the location at my house.

apple maps is working correctly however.

how do i reboot the unit? (soft reboot not reset)

Force quit Waze on your phone and then reopen it. Box shouldn't be having a problem, Waze has a bug where if it's opened via Carplay it doesn't always reacquire the GPS fix. Force quitting (swipe up from the bottom than swipe away the app) will resolve it.

Cyberdemon wrote

Force quit Waze on your phone and then reopen it. Box shouldn't be having a problem, Waze has a bug where if it's opened via Carplay it doesn't always reacquire the GPS fix. Force quitting (swipe up from the bottom than swipe away the app) will resolve it.

Thanks mate, will do

Update: turns out coding was reverted which is super weird as backed up coding file had the 3 settings. Dunno if Carly had anything to do with this (unlikely??) …as was testing it. Not game to verify now. Will stick to ncsexpert as its idiot proof…almost.

Few take-aways as noted elsewhere
* Read info carefully (watch vid linked, get a decent trim removal tool to avoid marking and a small pick)
* Lay out the harness and get a handle on overview. This is a good time to think how to keep them in order too. (this will pay dividends later when you need to clear the space for the CICunit)
* DISCONNECT battery - COVER boot switch with a towel or similar so you don’t lock yourself out while while
* You DON’T need to remove the 'top' panel with start switch completely. Just sufficiently to remove panel below
* You also DON’T need to remove sunshade completely, just the two ‘inside’ clips that hold them up.
* PROTECT trim/seats with a large towel as lots of sharp edges. One can also sand/file, said edges once you have it out to take some of the ‘sharpness’ out.
* Remove the two 8mm bolts to move cage/trim forward, giving more space to stash quadlock/cables. These bolts also a good earth point.
* Take your time and ensure all the connectors click into place properly.
* If in doubt, see above :-)
* Harness for idrive and 3.5mm audio jack are not required with above programming and moving quack connector (Individual audio, CIC with USB/AUX, IPHONE/MEDIA, without combox). A<—>B with D removed. Quick test, and NONE of the other configs worked for me.
* DIP Switches 3/4 ON all others OFF for this screen/combo
* Once connected all wires can be moved to either side (‘behind and to the side’) of the plastic cage/trim
* Suggest heat shrink for even connectors like RCA’s to secure
* Test before putting everything back and don’t force anything. CIC should just slide back into place.
* After testing, DISCONNECT battery again.
* If installing a front camera you can pass wire through the firewall into the box that houses the DME in engine bay. Careful when removing the harness here. Protect camera/RCA wires with a sheath for neatness and conditions, just in case
* Careful with mic wire running through A-pillar as it must not interfere with the airbag (could attach to existing harness). Don’t need to remove the trim completely as getting the bottom part back in can be tricky. Careful you don’t drop the trim clips. Mine had 2 clips along the ‘top’ edge.
* While you have trim out, this is a good time to run/hide wires from center console to a phone up front, and/or install a wireless charger and another for a DVR for example. Remember suitable fuses too.

For the OCD amongst us, its nice to have a decent soldering iron, heat shrink, an expandable protective sheath and some cloth tape for that OEM look.

SOUND appears nicer…too.

As always, YMMV. HTH. Thanks to @Cyberdemon and all that have contributed.

m3toboot wrote

Update: turns out coding was reverted which is super weird as backed up coding file had the 3 settings. Dunno if Carly had anything to do with this (unlikely??) …as was testing it. Not game to verify now. Will stick to ncsexpert as its idiot proof…almost.

Few take-aways as noted elsewhere
* Read info carefully (watch vid linked, get a decent trim removal tool to avoid marking and a small pick)
* Lay out the harness and get a handle on overview. This is a good time to think how to keep them in order too. (this will pay dividends later when you need to clear the space for the CICunit)
* DISCONNECT battery - COVER boot switch with a towel or similar so you don’t lock yourself out while while
* You DON’T need to remove the 'top' panel with start switch completely. Just sufficiently to remove panel below
* You also DON’T need to remove sunshade completely, just the two ‘inside’ clips that hold them up.
* PROTECT trim/seats with a large towel as lots of sharp edges. One can also sand/file, said edges once you have it out to take some of the ‘sharpness’ out.
* Remove the two 8mm bolts to move cage/trim forward, giving more space to stash quadlock/cables. These bolts also a good earth point.
* Take your time and ensure all the connectors click into place properly.
* If in doubt, see above :-)
* Harness for idrive and 3.5mm audio jack are not required with above programming and moving quack connector (Individual audio, CIC with USB/AUX, IPHONE/MEDIA, without combox). A<—>B with D removed. Quick test, and NONE of the other configs worked for me.
* DIP Switches 3/4 ON all others OFF for this screen/combo
* Once connected all wires can be moved to either side (‘behind and to the side’) of the plastic cage/trim
* Suggest heat shrink for even connectors like RCA’s to secure
* Test before putting everything back and don’t force anything. CIC should just slide back into place.
* After testing, DISCONNECT battery again.
* If installing a front camera you can pass wire through the firewall into the box that houses the DME in engine bay. Careful when removing the harness here. Protect camera/RCA wires with a sheath for neatness and conditions, just in case
* Careful with mic wire running through A-pillar as it must not interfere with the airbag (could attach to existing harness). Don’t need to remove the trim completely as getting the bottom part back in can be tricky. Careful you don’t drop the trim clips. Mine had 2 clips along the ‘top’ edge.
* While you have trim out, this is a good time to run/hide wires from center console to a phone up front, and/or install a wireless charger and another for a DVR for example. Remember suitable fuses too.

For the OCD amongst us, its nice to have a decent soldering iron, heat shrink, an expandable protective sheath and some cloth tape for that OEM look.

SOUND appears nicer…too.

As always, YMMV. HTH. Thanks to @Cyberdemon and all that have contributed.

Yes Carly will do that

unrulyteach wrote

Yes Carly will do that

WOW I'm glad I never use it for coding... just this once to test as it messed video too. Atleast have early version with no subscription

I managed to install my carsara box yesterday a few months after having it sitting on my desk.

After some issues getting Wireless Android Auto working with my One Plus 6, it's all working now. I do feel like the audio quality is not great though.

What is everyone's settings for audio? Does the original iDrive equaliser settings still apply? What about the iDrive Aux volume, what is everyone running that as? I hear static if I turn the volume up a bit and the quality isn't great. There are also a few volume settings in the carsara box itself, as well as equaliser, so maybe someone has figured out a good combination of settings?

I have individual audio on my E92 M3. Audio running through the aux quadlock.

Thanks in advance!

eddiegordo wrote

I managed to install my carsara box yesterday a few months after having it sitting on my desk.

After some issues getting Wireless Android Auto working with my One Plus 6, it's all working now. I do feel like the audio quality is not great though.

What is everyone's settings for audio? Does the original iDrive equaliser settings still apply? What about the iDrive Aux volume, what is everyone running that as? I hear static if I turn the volume up a bit and the quality isn't great. There are also a few volume settings in the carsara box itself, as well as equaliser, so maybe someone has figured out a good combination of settings?

I have individual audio on my E92 M3. Audio running through the aux quadlock.

Thanks in advance!

My audio settings are Aux Input ~75%, Carsara @ 13, EQ is pretty heavily tweaked for my ears. It's a bit of the pain in the ass because you need to dial in the EQ on the iDrive to sound good first, then once you're happy with that, go adjust the EQ on the Carsara. Might take you a half hour of playing with different genres that you like to listen to but once it's dialed in you should be pretty close.

If you're getting static or a hiss it usually means the volume on the iDrive is very high and the source output from the carsara is too low.

Cyberdemon wrote

eddiegordo wrote

I managed to install my carsara box yesterday a few months after having it sitting on my desk.

After some issues getting Wireless Android Auto working with my One Plus 6, it's all working now. I do feel like the audio quality is not great though.

What is everyone's settings for audio? Does the original iDrive equaliser settings still apply? What about the iDrive Aux volume, what is everyone running that as? I hear static if I turn the volume up a bit and the quality isn't great. There are also a few volume settings in the carsara box itself, as well as equaliser, so maybe someone has figured out a good combination of settings?

I have individual audio on my E92 M3. Audio running through the aux quadlock.

Thanks in advance!

My audio settings are Aux Input ~75%, Carsara @ 13, EQ is pretty heavily tweaked for my ears. It's a bit of the pain in the ass because you need to dial in the EQ on the iDrive to sound good first, then once you're happy with that, go adjust the EQ on the Carsara. Might take you a half hour of playing with different genres that you like to listen to but once it's dialed in you should be pretty close.

If you're getting static or a hiss it usually means the volume on the iDrive is very high and the source output from the carsara is too low.

So the box uses the idrive Harmon kardon settings?

unrulyteach wrote

So the box uses the idrive Harmon kardon settings?

The box has its own EQ but it just feeds that to the AUX input, which will use the iDrive EQ.

It makes it a pain because you're obviously trying to tune 2 audio sources. Thats why finding settings that generally work well for you for your default audio sources and music genres and then adjusting the Carsara afterwards will work the best.

It takes some fidgeting for sure - but you can get pretty good sound out of the box, like I said previously I find my high quality spotify in the M3/Individual audio better than the new base audio in my G05 X5.

Also important to realize that someone elses EQ settings end up being rather useless, we all have different ears and different musical tastes and preferences for sound profile. My half-deaf Steely Dan EQ is going to sound terrible for a 24 year old who wants to listen to hip hop.

Guys I just installed this unit but haven’t coded any of the audio stuff yet. I’m wondering if I can leave aux as is and get my iPhone to output audio via the combox over USB? I have individual audio and I know that using the native USB connection gives me full digital audio. Even coding aux to use carsara harness will be a step down.

As soon as I switch to CarPlay, the audio stops going to the combox via USB.

The-Traveler wrote

Guys I just installed this unit but haven’t coded any of the audio stuff yet. I’m wondering if I can leave aux as is and get my iPhone to output audio via the combox over USB? I have individual audio and I know that using the native USB connection gives me full digital audio. Even coding aux to use carsara harness will be a step down.

As soon as I switch to CarPlay, the audio stops going to the combox via USB.

Don't believe there's a way to get this to work. Your iPhone sees it's connected to Carplay and wants to output audio to that system.

Anyone know if we need a separate relay assembly for a front camera?

bugg wrote

Anyone know if we need a separate relay assembly for a front camera?

You only need a relay if your camera suffers from voltage issues. Easiest way to tell would be to test wire it before the full installation. Not too many have done the front camera on this car.