Track forum general chit chat.

roastbeef wrote

why do you value oil over water? to protect against heat sheer? longevity? or does it seem to be a better job of cooling the engine?
can you elaborate a little bit?

Water temps have never been an issue for me but I used to see really high oil temps. I just feel like this car gets higher oil temps before water temps. Also oil is more vital. Water temps too high the car sends itself into limp mode and everything is fine. Oil temps too high and it could ended really bad.

For what it’s worth, I have a do88 oil cooler, koyo rad (it was free), and a vented hood. I have zero cooling issues for water or oil even in 30+ min races in 90 degree weather.

turbo_joe wrote

Water temps have never been an issue for me but I used to see really high oil temps. I just feel like this car gets higher oil temps before water temps. Also oil is more vital. Water temps too high the car sends itself into limp mode and everything is fine. Oil temps too high and it could ended really bad.

For what itÂ’s worth, I have a do88 oil cooler, koyo rad (it was free), and a vented hood. I have zero cooling issues for water or oil even in 30+ min races in 90 degree weather.

makes sense.
i remember someone on here had a dry sump on their e46 or some kind of setup that used less oil by volume. he reported he never again had any issues with temps, while stating his theory was less oil passes through the cooler more often, thus keeping it cooler.

i've pondered the solutions for cooling for these cars all the time. one of the first things seems to be a proper undertray to force air through the oil cooler.

i was thinking about exploring the mezzo tech microtube radiator as an oil cooler if it was appropriate for our oil thickness and volume. i'd think an oil cooler would be smaller and therefore more cost effective. i think if someone came up with a simply cooler and ducting solution as simple as replacing an oil cooler, they'd have the market for these cars.

So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?

derbo wrote

So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?

Oil, transmission, radiator

No need to upgrade PS cooler, read it doesn't even help.

I have all do88 coolers except power steering which is still stock. Towel zip-tied around the vent hole is good enough.

I’ve experienced slower shifts at higher temps so I’d love to upgrade my DCT Cooler. I’d also like to upgrade either water or oil to keep engine temps down on track (very rarely I will creep up to a warning light). Never had an issue with PS.

Also- I have this knocking noise still. Haven’t solved it. See video. Only hear it at parking lot speeds. Ideas? I was going to check away bar end links and strut tower braces next. Kinda lost. Slightly concerned.

I’ve had a loose strut top nut make clunking sounds and a worn strut top mount do the same.

Ximian wrote

Oil, transmission, radiator

No need to upgrade PS cooler, read it doesn't even help.

I have all do88 coolers except power steering which is still stock. Towel zip-tied around the vent hole is good enough.

this exactly.

if someone is seeing high temps from normal track conditions, DCT cooler isn't far from overheating as well.

okusa wrote

There is demand among us track rats. StripclubDJ has a plan for my car that involves something very similar to what you describe. However, we are waiting to implement until after the first post-build shakedown day which should be in the next 3 weeks. So, any additional thought you have would be appreciated.

Let me know if you guys want a set of adapters. I have that black set sitting on my desk.

rhyary wrote

What oil cooler was used that is better than do88?

I used a generic [large] CSF core and made a custom bracket that holds it and seals most of the flow from the lower opening so it goes through the oil cooler. I only have oil temp issues if it's really hot and I'm trying really hard.

derbo wrote

So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?

For what it's worth, I did a bunch of tinkering to get oil temps stable and only two things made a measurable difference: ducting/internal aero and a larger water radiator. What worked best for my oil cooler aero routing though is basically the same as the stock M3.

Power Steering cooler didn't seem to do much of anything for me. The reservoir still burps out some fluid and the power steering still works.

My vote would be Water, Oil, Trans, PS

Do I need to disconnect the sway bar endlink before adjusting preload on my Ohlins coilovers?

I am in the process of checking torque on every component to figure out the clunk and when I removed the endlink the whole assemble lowered a little, creating some positive lash/slop on the spring. Height is adjusted independent of preload on these so I could adjust this without screwing up my alignment. Just wondering if that needs to be done.

okusa wrote

Doesn’t matter. None of them provide any benefit over OEM.

I live in Phoenix. Car was regularly over 275’ on track. I ‘upgraded’ to CSF rad and oil cooler and car has not gone above 260 since.

It’s a manual.

How maybe that’s new vs 70k oem, but the change made a big difference on my car.

More race car

StripclubDJ wrote

More race car

😍

StripclubDJ wrote

More race car

LOL not to sound stalker ish, but i almost moved into that area..

omgzirra_exe wrote

LOL not to sound stalker ish, but i almost moved into that area..

Bro who are you lol
Post a picture of your car or something

StripclubDJ wrote

Bro who are you lol
Post a picture of your car or something

i only know because i was going to take over my friends spot and he mentioned you and now i remember your name lol

Heading back to the track after a 15 yr hiatus. Was addicted then for 3 straight years in Florida but have only autox’d since then. I was fast then but younger and more confident, or maybe naive about potential consequences.
My first event back is at Big Willow on 12/17 and I’m excited/nervous.

Car is fairly stock other than front bar and MCS singles on stock zcp springs. Have old set of Yoks A052,s, 265/35 all around.

Car is fully up to date on service, including Castrol’s srf brake fluid.

Only concerns are
- 4 yr old studs but only dailyed and autox the car, so they should be fine (let me know if wrong).
- Brake pads, I’m on pfc street pads and will look to buy some track pads from the forum for sale section or new. Any suggestions for a low disk wear pad that can handle the stock weight of the car w/o braking (pun) the bank?

Otherwise, the car is at 165k miles and has all the usual suspects replaced and probably more. Runs great and has been resigned to bi-weekly long drives after getting a very slow hybrid (side effect, makes me love the M3 that much more when I do drive it).

Other than pads, let me know if I’m forgetting something else.

@m3pear have fun! Big Willow is a great track to ease back into things if you’re feeling nervous since it’s main attraction is a straightaway. I ran Hawk DTC pads (I liked the DTC-70’s and they are fairly inexpensive. I have a set of rears for oem calipers I’d be happy to sell you (they have 1 track day so obviously I’d discount them).

I recommend a quick brake bleed or if you have time, do a fluid flush to RBF600 or Castrol SRF.

With a cool down lap mixed in every few hot laps, your car should turn laps all day without issue. Big thing is giving the brakes a chance to recover since they’re oem.

Bimmer Barney wrote

Do I need to disconnect the sway bar endlink before adjusting preload on my Ohlins coilovers?

I am in the process of checking torque on every component to figure out the clunk and when I removed the endlink the whole assemble lowered a little, creating some positive lash/slop on the spring. Height is adjusted independent of preload on these so I could adjust this without screwing up my alignment. Just wondering if that needs to be done.

Anyone? Too noob of a Question?

Bimmer Barney wrote

Anyone? Too noob of a Question?

Below my knowledge grade of a question. Sorry.! lol


Jk
No you’re way overthinking things man lol
Put the front in the air , make sure there’s 5mm at least of preload or whatever preload you want and leave it .

The next step is get rid of those coilovers and then you’re good to go !

spammysammich wrote

I’ve had a loose strut top nut make clunking sounds and a worn strut top mount do the same.

I’ve had this as well. Sounded similar to the vid iirc.

Bartledoo wrote

I’ve had this as well. Sounded similar to the vid iirc.

yeah my rear strut bolt wasn't torqued all the way down and made a similar noise when i was driving with the rear seat down i can hear it moving up and down.

Bimmer Barney wrote

@m3pear have fun! Big Willow is a great track to ease back into things if you’re feeling nervous since it’s main attraction is a straightaway. I ran Hawk DTC pads (I liked the DTC-70’s and they are fairly inexpensive. I have a set of rears for oem calipers I’d be happy to sell you (they have 1 track day so obviously I’d discount them).

I recommend a quick brake bleed or if you have time, do a fluid flush to RBF600 or Castrol SRF.

With a cool down lap mixed in every few hot laps, your car should turn laps all day without issue. Big thing is giving the brakes a chance to recover since they’re oem.

Ok, thanks. I put Castrol srf in about 4 months ago, so should be good. I’ll plan on going 3 laps with a slower lap following thrown in for peace of mind.