Track forum general chit chat.

bigjae1976 wrote

Does anyone have an extra PS pump I could borrow to do an experiment on? Can be not working or working. You'll get it back 2-4 weeks later in the same condition as received. I'm just going to remove the relief, measure it, and reinstall it.

Thx!

Yep, i just pulled mine to swap to a CW one. Dm me.

bigjae1976 wrote

Does anyone have an extra PS pump I could borrow to do an experiment on? Can be not working or working. You'll get it back 2-4 weeks later in the same condition as received. I'm just going to remove the relief, measure it, and reinstall it.

Thx!

I have one.

reidetailing wrote

Hi guys,

I found a set of Advan GT Racing (OG version...sticker) rims in 18x10.5 +15 fitment, however the rims are 5x114.3.

Question: If done properly, is it OK/safe to redrill the rims from 5x114.3 to 5x120 for my E90 M3, powdercoat them white, and then run on the track?

Let me know.
Thanks, Alex

Re-drilling wheels is absolutely fine as long as it’s done correctly. I’ve worked on similar projects for previous customers without any issues.

The key is to ensure the machine shop has experience with wheel re-drilling and uses the proper metal inserts to reinforce the lug holes.

Fun fact: rally cars often have these inserts pre-installed on their wheels for added strength and durability.

I recommend reaching out to a reputable wheel refinisher who works with experienced machine shops. They’ll handle the re-drilling process and press in the new inserts.

bipp wrote

Say you find it again - and now you have to get it redrilled again. How long would that take out of your track season?

Re-drilling only takes only 1 day to do, if the machine shop isn't busy. usually factor in 1 week downtime.

bipp wrote

how do people wear helmets on glasses

mine are getting bent and bent-er like is there a secret or something i'm missing

Just a word for the wise.........if you need them to see I understand but if you are just using sun glasses do yourself a favor and buy a tinted windscreen. Long story short I had a bad off track excursion at Mid Ohio almost four years ago and I was wearing sunglasses. Will never do that again as you can see in the pics I was worse for wear, lol.

former 240 s14 wrote

Just a word for the wise.........if you need them to see I understand but if you are just using sun glasses do yourself a favor and buy a tinted windscreen. Long story short I had a bad off track excursion at Mid Ohio almost four years ago and I was wearing sunglasses. Will never do that again as you can see in the pics I was worse for wear, lol.

Jesus man, that looks gnarly. Hope you're all fine now!

Yeah unfortunately I just need the glasses to see. I run visor down as per my org's safety recommendation so no pieces of flying rubber should slam the glasses into my face but that's good to know as far as what might happen in a collision. Sounds like another vote for contacts + tinted windshield* or visor.

* as great as a tinted visor is, I'm considering getting mild (70%) tints on my windshield because around here, driving at night is an exercise in being blinded by teslas with their high beams on for no reason

bipp wrote

Jesus man, that looks gnarly. Hope you're all fine now!

Yeah unfortunately I just need the glasses to see. I run visor down as per my org's safety recommendation so no pieces of flying rubber should slam the glasses into my face but that's good to know as far as what might happen in a collision. Sounds like another vote for contacts + tinted windshield* or visor.

* as great as a tinted visor is, I'm considering getting mild (70%) tints on my windshield because around here, driving at night is an exercise in being blinded by teslas with their high beams on for no reason

I fully recovered, but still ugly (as that was from birth, lol.) I rolled a car 5x (we think) and that was from the helmet holding my brain inside head lol.

I would very much recommend contacts if they are available in this instance but know from experience when you start to sweat they can become an issue.

bipp wrote

Jesus man, that looks gnarly. Hope you're all fine now!

Yeah unfortunately I just need the glasses to see. I run visor down as per my org's safety recommendation so no pieces of flying rubber should slam the glasses into my face but that's good to know as far as what might happen in a collision. Sounds like another vote for contacts + tinted windshield* or visor.

* as great as a tinted visor is, I'm considering getting mild (70%) tints on my windshield because around here, driving at night is an exercise in being blinded by teslas with their high beams on for no reason

I don't use contacts so always had glasses on with a helmet.

Shop around at any of the cheap prescription eyeglass/sunglass sites (Zenni, Warby Parker, etc) for different frame options. I have prescription sunglasses for the sunny days and use my regular glasses every other time. The frames have either really thin and flimsy arms (temple) or really flat but rigid ones (mostly sunglasses). Either will fit once I put on the balaclava and helmet, but the flat ones do get uncomfortable after a bit. Depending on the amount of padding in your helmet, the end pieces of the glasses don't even have to go around your ears to stay in place, just wedged somewhere between the foam and your head.

Ximian wrote

I don't use contacts so always had glasses on with a helmet.

Shop around at any of the cheap prescription eyeglass/sunglass sites (Zenni, Warby Parker, etc) for different frame options. I have prescription sunglasses for the sunny days and use my regular glasses every other time. The frames have either really thin and flimsy arms (temple) or really flat but rigid ones (mostly sunglasses). Either will fit once I put on the balaclava and helmet, but the flat ones do get uncomfortable after a bit. Depending on the amount of padding in your helmet, the end pieces of the glasses don't even have to go around your ears to stay in place, just wedged somewhere between the foam and your head.

I have plastic glasses - think I bent them when trying to wedge them in and I only managed to get one side on, and the other side haphazardly shoved between balaclava and helmet. It's liveable for a 20 min session + grid time... the wire frame glasses sound like a better solution if there's more "bend" to em. I'll figure something out but thanks for the tip.

former 240 s14 wrote

I fully recovered, but still ugly (as that was from birth, lol.) I rolled a car 5x (we think) and that was from the helmet holding my brain inside head lol.

I would very much recommend contacts if they are available in this instance but know from experience when you start to sweat they can become an issue.

Glad you made it out! That's a hell of an incident.

Anyone running a pedal box or an aftermarket ABS (Bosch, MK-Rennsport)?

reidetailing wrote

Anyone running a pedal box or an aftermarket ABS (Bosch, MK-Rennsport)?

I've been looking into this for a project and it would be an extremely difficult thing to do. There is a lot of stuff in the car that is co-dependent on the DSC module.

From what I looked into on moving to a Tilton 850 pedal box it’s a bit of a shit heap for not a lot of reward, less the feeling of “more race car” and brake bias adjusting. You’d lose the power brakes I think, which can be good or bad depending on feel you’re after.

For ABS upgrades, there is an East Coast company that will flash your e9xM unit to the Motorsports “settings”. I’ll try and find the company name - it was like $2k and you had to send the unit to them

EDIT: company name is RHT Motorsports

I can't find any solid answers on what the "Motorsports" software is/does, just that it's expensive as frig to get someone to flash it, and only certain units can be flashed.

The only thing I read is that the ABS is better with slicks, but no explanation on why or how.

reidetailing wrote

Anyone running a pedal box or an aftermarket ABS (Bosch, MK-Rennsport)?

Yes and yes, in the process. Went with PE racing pedal box. Daryl is fantastic engineer and resource!

It’s definitely lots of work… But there are significant braking improvements possible that’ll take more lap time off than most other efforts.

amg6975 wrote

The only thing I read is that the ABS is better with slicks, but no explanation on why or how.

This is the part that I'm not really understanding.

Since ABS works off the wheel speed sensor readings, not sure what adjustment there is to make. Avoiding getting into ABS on slicks is no different than the conditions of ABS engaging in any other situation - a wheel not spinning. With a slick, you can use more of the brake pedal longer before locking up so there is less of a chance of getting into ABS anyway.

Thinking more about it, could be related to how ABS activates while cornering or over bumps/curbs. But since there are no details on it, we'll probably never know.

amg6975 wrote

I can't find any solid answers on what the "Motorsports" software is/does, just that it's expensive as frig to get someone to flash it, and only certain units can be flashed.

The only thing I read is that the ABS is better with slicks, but no explanation on why or how.

I have a confirmed unit per Mario at MK, that can be flashed. If anyone is interested…

But honestly, Mario was a complete pain in the ass and I wouldn’t recommend him to anyone that’s not local.

Starting to get parts for my OS Giken 4.50 differential build, super excited. New KMP 4.50 along with new pinion and carrier bearings. I ordered a bunch of stuff through Schmeidmann who say they're able to get hard to get parts like the E39 M5 stub axles and although they said they'd be able to get a 4.44, I'd rather spend the extra money to ensure I am not gonna be held up waiting for the 4.44 from BMW.

Now to repackage them and send everything to New England Gear Polishing for REM polishing, as well as REM black for the R&P.

I overpaid for the pinion bearings from 123bearing since I couldn't find the BMW part numbers, but they had them readily available so it was worth it.

F-237542-02-SKL-F A G or 33108311190 for the big pinion bearing

F-237541-02-SKL-H79-F A G or 33108311191 for the smaller pinion bearing

JLM104948/10 for the carrier bearings, I bought Koyo but they rebranded as JTEKT, still Koyo branding on the races and Made in Japan

Guys,
I'm getting ready to install my first set of coilovers. What are some costs you've seen regarding alignment/corner balancing?

FWIW, i'm in NorCal.

Thanks,
Steve

sperkins wrote

Guys,
I'm getting ready to install my first set of coilovers. What are some costs you've seen regarding alignment/corner balancing?

FWIW, i'm in NorCal.

Thanks,
Steve

Good setup, corner balance, alignment can be upwards of $800

sperkins wrote

Guys,
I'm getting ready to install my first set of coilovers. What are some costs you've seen regarding alignment/corner balancing?

FWIW, i'm in NorCal.

Thanks,
Steve

*Price is largely dependent on suspension arms / adjustability. More adjustable = time = money. Note you’ll want adjustable sway endlinks on front / rear for corner balance.

Per Mikes comment, $250- $800*.

sperkins wrote

Guys,
I'm getting ready to install my first set of coilovers. What are some costs you've seen regarding alignment/corner balancing?

FWIW, i'm in NorCal.

Thanks,
Steve

I pay $210 for alignment at Vt Motorworks in Pleasanton. Should probably be in the 200-250 range at most places around here whether you go to Ptech, Trackspec, etc. Corner balance I'm not sure about but labor rates are typically $225ish/hr so I'd guess $500ish or more.

bipp wrote

I pay $210 for alignment at Vt Motorworks in Pleasanton. Should probably be in the 200-250 range at most places around here whether you go to Ptech, Trackspec, etc. Corner balance I'm not sure about but labor rates are typically $225ish/hr so I'd guess $500ish or more.

Thanks for all the replies. It appears the corner balance is the costly service due to the amount of time it actually takes.
I’ve been looking on FB marketplace seeing if I can pick up some scales for cheap. If I can get some scales for around $500, I figure I’ll be money ahead moving forward.

sperkins wrote

Thanks for all the replies. It appears the corner balance is the costly service due to the amount of time it actually takes.
I’ve been looking on FB marketplace seeing if I can pick up some scales for cheap. If I can get some scales for around $500, I figure I’ll be money ahead moving forward.

You need something to mount and level those scales perfectly… Plus a way to lift and lower the car repeatedly with room to settle the springs.

I think you’re wasting $$$ unless you’re going full race car in the near future.