Track forum general chit chat.

roastbeef wrote

You gunna do this? I get mocked for it, but when schirmer does it, it’s cool.

Argh - and yet they leave the giant battery box. I wonder if they relocate anything back their for improved weight distribution.

roastbeef wrote

You gunna do this? I get mocked for it, but when schirmer does it, it’s cool.

I admire the dedication to the speed hole. One day I hope to be like Mr. Beef.

If you're building a car just to be different and by name then..

I'm pretty sure Fall line can build one of thier championship winning E92s....and they were built almost 20 years ago...

Shoot even the Ex Turner cars that would give he Schirmer cars a run for their money (and were also built some 20 years ago)

But YouTube clout is worth more than race results it seems

gmg built an e92 that was pretty damn clean a while back.

https://rennlist.com/forums/other-marque-discussions/770247-gmg-racing-bmw-e92-m3-race-car-roll-cage-gmg-exhaust-jrz-coilovers-and-many-more.html

RalliartRsX wrote

If you're building a car just to be different and by name then..

I'm pretty sure Fall line can build one of thier championship winning E92s....and they were built almost 20 years ago...

Shoot even the Ex Turner cars that would give he Schirmer cars a run for their money (and were also built some 20 years ago)

But YouTube clout is worth more than race results it seems ��

Made me think of Ryan Tuerck throwing a Judd V10 into a Supra. In one of his videos he admitted there were better options and he did it for the sound.

If I ever hit the lottery, I am absolutely putting a Judd V10 in something.

Gents sharing a cool car analysis tool came across on TY...in case ya'll are not aware.

Seems useful regardless of 'car brand', although Porsche featured.
Vid highlights more of 'how-to' for tool, potential mods and expected lap time deltas.

Like that video. Obviously the analysis is a bit 'vague' in terms of low/medium/high downforce but a good way to set expectations when adding something.

Below is a link to my part out thread, figured someone on the track thread might be interested in the Titan-7, Ohlins DT, AP Racing 9660 kit, or spare DS2500 or 3.12s. Located NJ, not looking to ship at this point (perhaps with the exception of the pads).

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2197194

What can cause this sort of wear on the wheel barrel? Had one like that in the front and one rear. Tire installer flagged it for me. I looked everywhere with the wheels on and nothing is anywhere near there front or rear, with front wheel going through lock to lock.

Or did he f it up during tire install and blame it on me?

Can’t even think of how a pebble or something could get lodged and do that — it’s a solid 5-6” inboard of the caliper.

kolosy wrote

What can cause this sort of wear on the wheel barrel? Had one like that in the front and one rear. Tire installer flagged it for me. I looked everywhere with the wheels on and nothing is anywhere near there front or rear, with front wheel going through lock to lock.

Or did he f it up during tire install and blame it on me?

Can’t even think of how a pebble or something could get lodged and do that — it’s a solid 5-6” inboard of the caliper.

Could be install error. Common is when installing a low profile tire. The tire about 180 degrees from the shoe has to be under the bead. What makes low profile tires tricky is keeping that part off the bead. If the tire seats on the bead then it will spin the wheel on the jaws which would cause those marks.

The technically correct way is the jaws should grab the outside of the rim. Then disengage the jaws, lift up the wheel, engage the jaws and then disengage the jaws so it is holding the inside of the barrel when seating the bead.

I'll admit that I do it the lazy but faster way...engage the jaws on the inside of the wheel barrel. But I'm working on my own wheels and tires.

bigjae1976 wrote

Could be install error. Common is when installing a low profile tire. The tire about 180 degrees from the shoe has to be under the bead. What makes low profile tires tricky is keeping that part off the bead. If the tire seats on the bead then it will spin the wheel on the jaws which would cause those marks.

The technically correct way is the jaws should grab the outside of the rim. Then disengage the jaws, lift up the wheel, engage the jaws and then disengage the jaws so it is holding the inside of the barrel when seating the bead.

I'll admit that I do it the lazy but faster way...engage the jaws on the inside of the wheel barrel. But I'm working on my own wheels and tires.

this sounds about right, especially for RIM clamp tire mounts.

most tire shops i go to to here, all use touchless tire machines that insert a shaft into the wheel hub and locks it down there.

although they would use the inside clamps in the wheel barrel for STEEL wheels, but should not be used that way for aluminum.

RalliartRsX wrote

If you're building a car just to be different and by name then..

I'm pretty sure Fall line can build one of thier championship winning E92s....and they were built almost 20 years ago...

Shoot even the Ex Turner cars that would give he Schirmer cars a run for their money (and were also built some 20 years ago)

But YouTube clout is worth more than race results it seems ��

Eh, I ran with a couple Schirmer cars when I was at the ring last month and they are QUICK. Also are apples to oranges comparison against a prepped GT4 car. The Schirmer cars were running custom rear suspension with true coilover, one-off control arms and other components that you can't buy from Schirmer (only come with a full build), and they are setup specifically to run the Nordschleife in under 7 minutes. Two of the three builds I saw while there also had 4.4L motors in them. Safe to say my little e36 325 track car could not keep up LOL

omgzirra_exe wrote

this sounds about right, especially for RIM clamp tire mounts.

most tire shops i go to to here, all use touchless tire machines that insert a shaft into the wheel hub and locks it down there.

although they would use the inside clamps in the wheel barrel for STEEL wheels, but should not be used that way for aluminum.

Lovely. I assume it’s just a scratch risk, not a physical integrity risk?
I’ve been using a mobile guy that comes to my house with a van instead of having to go somewhere, but I guess I’ll have to stop. Bummer.

kolosy wrote

Lovely. I assume it’s just a scratch risk, not a physical integrity risk?
I’ve been using a mobile guy that comes to my house with a van instead of having to go somewhere, but I guess I’ll have to stop. Bummer.

id probably get wheel balance if you can. im sure they did the damage though...

omgzirra_exe wrote

id probably get wheel balance if you can. im sure they did the damage though...

You mean re-balanced? He balanced them.

kolosy wrote

You mean re-balanced? He balanced them.

yeah my bad re-balanced lol or at least a 2nd opinion from a different shop.

kolosy wrote

What can cause this sort of wear on the wheel barrel? Had one like that in the front and one rear. Tire installer flagged it for me. I looked everywhere with the wheels on and nothing is anywhere near there front or rear, with front wheel going through lock to lock.

Or did he f it up during tire install and blame it on me?

Can’t even think of how a pebble or something could get lodged and do that — it’s a solid 5-6” inboard of the caliper.

The only thing other than tire install error is the front tension arm is rubbing at full lock if you have replaced those recently and installed incorrectly.

You would know almost immediately though.

F4rmost wrote

The only thing other than tire install error is the front tension arm is rubbing at full lock if you have replaced those recently and installed incorrectly.

You would know almost immediately though.

Yeah. Hard to tell from the image, but the imperfection does not have the more uniform appearance I'd expect from something rubbing as the car moves at a higher speed. Instead, it seems like the pattern was created by a less uniform more localized force that didn't traverse the area multiple times. Seems to resemble what I'd imagine from tire install error, unfortunately.

kolosy wrote

Lovely. I assume it’s just a scratch risk, not a physical integrity risk?
I’ve been using a mobile guy that comes to my house with a van instead of having to go somewhere, but I guess I’ll have to stop. Bummer.

That sounds odd because most of the mobile tire vans I've seen have better equipment. I've always wondered how accurate the balancer is being on a vehicle that may or may not be level. Not sure if that affects the balancer?

Could be a structural risk - depends how deep the scratch is.

For track tires, you will want to find someone that is either minimizing the use of lube when mounting or wipes and cleans the lube off before seating the beads. The tire will rotate on the wheel. Before I started wiping off the lube, a tire would rotate about 1/3 around. No lube, rotates maybe 3-4 inches.

For mounting track tires, I've been using isopropyl alcohol spray the last few years. Provides enough lubrication to mount the tires easily, but evaporates shortly after the fact and leaves no residue. Since switching to this, I've had no issues of tires rotating on the wheel, which was a problem I was having with tires mounted with lube.

bigjae1976 wrote

That sounds odd because most of the mobile tire vans I've seen have better equipment. I've always wondered how accurate the balancer is being on a vehicle that may or may not be level. Not sure if that affects the balancer?

My guy has the equipment in a trailer and this was exactly my first thought. He has the balancer mounted to a thick steel plate that's mounted to the floor of the trailer. He says it can be a little fussy if the balance is really bad but he's done enough that he knows if something is off and can adjust.

amg6975 wrote

My guy has the equipment in a trailer and this was exactly my first thought. He has the balancer mounted to a thick steel plate that's mounted to the floor of the trailer. He says it can be a little fussy if the balance is really bad but he's done enough that he knows if something is off and can adjust.

most tires balancer have a leveler on it so it it's probably something they can account for easily.

my mobile guy does the same thing, and i never had an issue with balance.

Palmer last week