If you have anywhere near 100k miles, expect to replace stuff like pulleys and tensioners. It is what it is.
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06-20-2026LAST POST
endur0 wroteDamn, so looks like fan is coming out. I'm guessing crank bolt is inaccessible otherwise. I remember Sreten removed it on his E92. Didn't look too bad, but he's experienced with BMWs plus it's YouTube. Who knows how long it actually took him. Will look up some videos on it.I removed the radiator fan. It was a PITA to remove, as its geometry really doesn't want it to be removed with everything in place, but got a little better when I removed some screws attaching its mount hear the top of the radiator support; this allowed moving that mount out some and it could slip a tab on the fan past the location where the top coolant pipe enters the radiator. Probably a better way to remove it than what I did... now that I think about it, wonder if it'd have been happier going out the bottom...
IIRC, I removed the fan mostly for access to the crank bolt so I could easily turn the engine. And then I didn't have to remove any pullies.
Dunno if there's a difference in final stretch between using copper paste and ARP lube. My guess is it's a small effect compared with the +200° stretch which in my head makes the final stretch more a function of the bolt's metal and geometric characteristics than a function of that 80Nm.
Oh yes you're right, the main thing is the angle torque so that pretty much disregards any clamping force from the 80Nm since that step happens first anyway.
Didn’t he time his engine on a stand? It’s a whole different kettle of fish in that context. No coolant tubes or hard lines in the way.
spammysammich wroteYup. But when he first brought the E92 home he tried turning the motor by hand so removed the fan IIRC. I can watch that and probably find crank pulley install instructions which will probably have a step for removing the fan too.Didn’t he time his engine on a stand? It’s a whole different kettle of fish in that context. No coolant tubes or hard lines in the way.
Remove your front under tray and pop the power steering lines loose from the clips built into the lower part of the fan shroud. Otherwise you will really struggle pulling the fan out.
spammysammich wroteThanks for the tip. I'm probably going to need 2 days to do this.Remove your front under tray and pop the power steering lines loose from the clips built into the lower part of the fan shroud. Otherwise you will really struggle pulling the fan out.
Might as well throw a pulley on 'while I'm in there'.
a5m wroteDefinitely!Thanks for the tip. I'm probably going to need 2 days to do this.
Might as well throw a pulley on 'while I'm in there'.
Last year refreshed/upgraded all new - - fan shroud, pulleys/tensioners, rad & all coolers...hopefully all good for life of engine
Just wondering. How much is a far amount someone would pay for just labor to install VANOS cups?
In other words…how much can I charge?
In other words…how much can I charge?
I’d pay shop rate at actual time to have it done.
What’s the weight difference between the two?
This might be a silly question but what kind of oil y'all lubing up the bolt threads with?
What a fun little diy. 200degrees was a good time. OEM caps seems pretty sturdy and were a pain in the butt to take off but glad I ended up doing it. Bank 2 had no creaking when torquing bolts but Bank 1 was very creaky as the bolt was being angled to 200°. Having a second person helps ALOT. All valve covers bolts are possible to torque just gotta get sneaky with the torque wrench. Coil packs were the worst part of the job. Learned a ton, great day project.
I had valve covers gaskets done a few months ago. Looks like the used a decent amount of sealant or never scraped it off.
Now to turn it over.
I had valve covers gaskets done a few months ago. Looks like the used a decent amount of sealant or never scraped it off.
Now to turn it over.
