ygoz wroteThis is what we call supersampling, when running a source higher than the resolution the screen can support. Which in return it should in theory still provide a better image, cleaner and sharper even though the OEM 8.8" screen is pushing out less than 720p.Whats the point of powering and running a 1080p camera though?
The screen is less than 720P.
GORDON.M3 wroteSupersampling - I think it’s being overstated here given the actual use case.This is what we call supersampling, when running a source higher than the resolution the screen can support. Which in return it should in theory still provide a better image, cleaner and sharper even though the OEM 8.8" screen is pushing out less than 720p.
ygoz wroteI understand 100% where you are coming from and I'm in the same thought, but I am under the impression that the GreenYi 1080p camera would have a superior quality sensor compared to the 720p. I have the 720p installed on my M3 currently and I will test the 1080p version soon.Here’s a clean, forum-style reply that pushes back without sounding clueless:
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Supersampling - I think it’s being overstated here given the actual use case.
In theory, yes—feeding a higher-res source into a lower-res display can produce a slightly cleaner image after downscaling.
That’s valid in graphics or video contexts where you care about edge quality and fine detail.
But for a reversing camera, You’re not trying to resolve fine detail—you’re looking for obstacles, distance, and motion.
The CIC screen is also extremely low resolution (~1280×480), so most of the extra detail from 1080p just gets thrown away anyway.
On top of that, camera quality, dynamic range, and latency matter far more here than resolution. A decent 720p (or even lower) camera with good exposure and low lag will outperform a “1080p” one in real-world reversing.
So while supersampling isn’t wrong technically, in this case it’s not really solving a meaningful problem.
Vostec wroteHave you tried setting the camera's settings in mr12volt? If you shift into reverse then hit the idrive button it opens a menu with brightness, contrast, and saturation. Also, make sure you snipped the wire loops on the camera lead for best resolution - one of the loops affects resolution, the other one removes the useless static guidesAs someone with the P2000 and 720p GreenYi backup camera I’m still searching for a way to upgrade the backup camera. Resolution is enough for me, but the image misses contrast. The colors look washed out, especially at night time.
I do however like how the camera is integrated into the boot handle, giving it a oem look.
Does anyone know if it is possible to take the camera/camera sensor from a better backup camera and solder it on to the GeeenYi PCB?
ExcelonGT wrotesell it and I'll send you that discount for returning customers!I bought a P2000 unit from Gordon several months ago but didn't install as I was getting bunch of other work done on the car.
Im now wondering if I should even bother installing the P2000 or try to flip it for a P3000.
Matt@Evolve wroteWell, well!!!!!!!! It didn't work!!!In theory we could test it by coding our own car back but like you we'll verify for ourselves when our next customer install comes in. I'd also be intrigued to check the coding afterwards, is it carrying out the coding itself or using another method.
DavesZed wroteThere's no way the Mr12volt would bugger up the VO, the VO can only be changed by doing vehicle order changes, if Mr12volt were to activate coding, it would only do the surface level coding changes in the Nettodaten codieren of the CIC.Well, well!!!!!!!! It didn't work!!!
So did the install in the normal way but didn't do any coding beforehand, just the full physical installation. Put the key in, iDrive started up, flicked over to CD and "No Disc" was showing as a single disc only, not multi-disc. So it didn't change anything itself. I even videod that start up.
"OK", I thought "I'll just do the coding the normal way. Connected my ICOM up, laptop on INPA and checked connection and did a fault code check, all normal. Switched over to NCSExpert for coding, Expertenmodus, E89, VIN, CAS..... picked up VIN then failed with a notification of a faulty FA code read!!
Somehow it looks like the new P3000 box has buggered up the VO, so it cant be read, thus you cant code anything on the car.
As I was doing a Cruise Control retrofit at the same time I had to remove all of that as well, reinstall the old stalks and then managed to use Tool32 to reset the steering angle sensor. But I've left all of the Mr12volt installed as its not affecting the iDrive at all. I did check on my phone and could see the Mr12volt box.
I've sent an urgent request for help from Mr12volt, so I'm awaiting a reply.
Fortunately my customer was totally understanding, but I've spent two hours of my Sunday wasting my time and nothing to show for it. Was really hoping to report back some good news.
GORDON.M3 wroteAnd what do you suggest is wrong with my NCSExpert installation? Especially considering I'm a retrofitter and have been very successfully for the last 8 years. I can assure you there is nothing wrong with my setup, I use it regularly, dealer level with all updates. Oh and I did test it again on my own car, just to make sure. Never had an issue on any car, ever! I've done loads of Mr12volt boxes, and hundreds of cruise control retrofits.There's no way the Mr12volt would bugger up the VO, the VO can only be changed by doing vehicle order changes, if Mr12volt were to activate coding, it would only do the surface level coding changes in the Nettodaten codieren of the CIC.
Something is wrong with your installation of NCSExpert hence why some car's VOs can be fully read and some cannot.
The "coding activation" on the P3000 is going to be hit or miss, depending on your build date of your car. Hence why I tell all my clients to make sure they have tools to do coding - just in case!
DavesZed wroteI had this exact same experience on first startup after installing the P3000. However, after shutting down the car and waiting for the i-drive to power down, the next time I started the car up, it did show up as expected. I think the critical part is to have the car completely shut everything down so that, on reboot, the P3000 is seen as the CD changer.Well, well!!!!!!!! It didn't work!!!
So did the install in the normal way but didn't do any coding beforehand, just the full physical installation. Put the key in, iDrive started up, flicked over to CD and "No Disc" was showing as a single disc only, not multi-disc. So it didn't change anything itself. I even videod that start up.
steveff4 wroteI'll pass that on to my customer and see what he finds tomorrow. Thank you, but not the way to be doing it in my mind, in the future I'll stick to pre-coding, it only takes a couple of minutes.I had this exact same experience on first startup after installing the P3000. However, after shutting down the car and waiting for the i-drive to power down, the next time I started the car up, it did show up as expected. I think the critical part is to have the car completely shut everything down so that, on reboot, the P3000 is seen as the CD changer.
steveff4 wroteI had this exact same experience on first startup after installing the P3000. However, after shutting down the car and waiting for the i-drive to power down, the next time I started the car up, it did show up as expected. I think the critical part is to have the car completely shut everything down so that, on reboot, the P3000 is seen as the CD changer.
DavesZed wroteAlas didn't work, still not showing multi CD's, just "No CD", and no response from Mr12volt.I'll pass that on to my customer and see what he finds tomorrow. Thank you, but not the way to be doing it in my mind, in the future I'll stick to pre-coding, it only takes a couple of minutes.
